Hey T-Bone 2 questions

First - what type of chainsaw did you end up getting?

Second - 7014 rods. Everybody says how great they are but I"m having trouble making clean strong welds in one pass(new metal 1/8 - 3/16"). I have no problem with 6011, 6013, or with the mig machine. Any hints to using these rods.

Thanks, Grant

I bought a Stihl MS 361, decompression valve (DV), with a 20" bar with a 3/8", .050 RS chain. It appears to be a really nice saw. I didn't like the way Stihl recomends starting on WOT so I adjusted the carb for a idle start. A cold start is 3 pulls full choke WOT, 1 pull at idle. Warm is 1 pull idle. All using the DV. The Elastro-start opition is not needed with the DV. I have less than one tank of gas thru it so it's really too early to tell much more.

Several things to try with the 7014. Ironpowder flux makes for a finished heavy flux coating. That means you need to use more amps with this electrode with about a 15% angle with a close arc length.

Although 7014 is rated for all positions it's really makes a good rod for flat work with lots of heat and fast travel speed, thus it's intended design. A slightly wider root opening will help with the finished bead contour.

Being ironpowder flux moister content is a concern. Try drying 5lbs or so in a oven at 250� for a hour and see if you can tell a difference. Your area may demand to keep this electrode in a rod oven before use.

This would not be a good rod choice for short weld joints. 6011 would be a better slection.

Yes there are some very talented people here and making the question open to all is a benefit to all. There's always more than one way to skin the cat. I never mind that someone else answers the questions, in fact I encourge it.

T_Bone

Hope the saw works well for you.

I'll just get back out there and keep working on the welds. They are not really bad but there is certinly room for improvment. I'll try drying the rods. You are absolutly right about the moisture in the air. The only time it is really dry here is July and August and I don't like to weld then - too hot and I'm afraid of burning the barn down.

Grant

not sure if that's what you are looking for.

A couple threads down the paige someone said the 7014 rod should stay touching(close) to the metal. Should I try this?

I have tried hotter but just started blowing through - guess I need to move faster.

Thanks, Grant

This makes some sense now. I get deposit on the top and bottom, but the middle is usually spotty, that is why I need a couple of passes to get it tight. I will keep working on it with a bit more heat, closer contact and the two methodes you described.

Thanks, Grant