New Welder and First Project ... Questions

Been getting by with an Oxy-Acetylene setup for several years now, but I finally broke down and bought a new stick welder. A Miller ThunderBolt AC/DC 225/150. I have had a ton of welding experience with the oxy-acetylene, as that's all I had. I've welded stuff that required way too much effort with that :) I went with the stick because of cost and flexibility.

My welding background consists of Basic & Intermediate Arc & Gas classes at the local community college (16 classes each). Learned tons of stuff there and would recommend this to any beginner welder. Most of my welding since has been hobby stuff, and repairs around the farm, so I'm glad to have a stick welder.

My friend has asked me to weld up several stall grills for his new horse barn. I see this as an opportunity for some experience with my new machine. There may be up to six stalls to do, but I'm starting with only one. The grill will be approximately (don't have exact measurements with me) 44 inches high and 96 inches wide. He is looking for basic 1 1/2 inch angle iron around the four sides, with 1/2 inch solid round stock as grill posts. There will be 23 of these in the panel. He wants them butt welded to the outside of the angle iron, as the inside corners of the angle iron will be used to mount into the framed opening of the stall. I'll probably end up doing something for above the door too, about 36 by 48. Now I know that's a lot of small welds. But I'm up for a challenge!

I think the 1/2 inch round stock for this is a little small (for appearances), but that�s what he wants. Question is with so many welds to the angle iron, and the rods being solid 1/2 inch, will 1/8 inch angle iron be a little thin to weld the rods to? Would I be better off with 3/16, or 1/4 inch angle iron? What do you folks think? I figure I�ll use 3/32 6011 or 6013 electrodes.

Thanks in Advance,

Jim

Thanks Again!

Your going to find it hard to beat the price of going to the feed store and buying premade stall pannels. For 5ft x 10ft pannels are about $65eh

Welding short joints you always want to use a light flux electrode, 6010 or 6011 works well.

Fabing pannels you need to make a jig. This makes building them fast as well keeps the metal from warping because of the joint design and from welding.

A jig plate is usually 3/16" thick minimum with 1/8" x 1" flatbar for holding the material position while welding.

Joint fit up has to be very close. When you weld a joint with wide gaps then you will get alot of warpage.

Don't try a reinvent the wheel. Copy the commerical made pens. There's many reasons why there made like they are.

T_Bone

When I make the first one for myself (120" X 36"), I used 1" square tubing. Drilled the holes for the 1/2" rod on 3 1/2" centers on both top and bottom. After assembly, and welding the end "caps" in place, I hard welded about every 8 rods top and bottom for internal bracing of the frame structure.

The result was not a warped twisted mess, looked professional, and wasn"t that heavy. I lifted it into place myself on top of a 4 1/2" 2X wall and secured it with 1/4" lags to the stall wall and barn walls.

The extra cost is well worth your reputation for putting out good work and your friend will be way more satisfied with the end result.

Haven't used 7014. I have used 7018, that�s the low hydrogen structural rod isn't it? As I recall using that, every time I stop I get a "crucible tip" that I need to bust off by tapping, to get the rod re-started. That could be a pain with so many small welds. How about the 7014? Same thing? Also as all the stock would be new, I guess maybe 6011 wouldn't be needed, but wouldn't 6013 hold OK. These grills are up high in the horse stall starting about five feet high. I don't think they'd be getting kicked, etc.

Jim