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Removing head bolts

some questions ? ? ? ? ?

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Alberta Mike

11-26-2000 13:15:33

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I've got a little Hercules flathead engine here that I'm probably going to be taking the head off come spring time. I noticed that one of the head bolts (not studs with nuts) has already been twisted off, probably pretty close to the surface of the block. Here's a few questions, hope someone can help.

1. Is there any recommended procedure for removing the remaining head bolts without suffering the same fate as the person who tried to take one out already with disastrous results?

2. For the one that is broken off (or any others that might break when I remove the head), what's the proper 'fix' method?

3. Assuming that I'm ready to put things back together, do I need new head bolts?

4. Would there be any advantage or disadvantage of replacing the head bolts with studs & nuts instead of using bolts?

Looking forward to your suggestions !

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Gezzzer

12-01-2000 09:04:44

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Re: Removing head bolts - some questions ? ? ? ? ? in reply to Alberta Mike, 11-26-2000 13:15:33

I believe he said the bolt was broken pretty close to the block and it would be next sring till he got to it. This creates a problem for gripping with all stud removers Over a lot years I have drilled and used easy-outs NO More ! There is a lot of problems with this. Centering the hole. Even with hole centerd, getting the right wall thickness remains. I worked in a machine shop where we had a tap burner. These one problem still was centering the hole and cutting only the center core out. Now after all that ! I seen far better success by Professional welders who weld thru a nut let cool a little and spray oil on it let it cool 2 or 3 min. then removing

The heat breaks the rust.

Gezzzer

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GPWT

11-27-2000 09:33:31

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Re: Removing head bolts - some questions ? ? ? ? ? in reply to Alberta Mike, 11-26-2000 13:15:33

I have just disassembled a 1930 engine and removed head and manifold studs from the block and found that alternating heat and penetrating oil (Kroil) cycles loosten them up. I got the insertion end of the stud bright orange-red with the rosebud tip and that seemed to do it. Spraying the Kroil on the stud where it joins the block when it is still warm (not red hot!) seems to draw the oil into the joint.
Once you get it all apart, I would replace all the bolts and use anti sieze (SP?) compound on the threads.

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jimmyzz

11-28-2000 08:51:16

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Re: Re: Removing head bolts - some questions ? ? ? ? ? in reply to GPWT, 11-27-2000 09:33:31

do not use never-seize on head bolts. the high torque that these bolts require will be hard to reach. i have seen necked down head bolts break as a result of this. use engine oil only. sieze will lower friction too low and bolts will strech and narrow before torque point is reached.

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Jim WI

12-13-2000 10:51:44

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Re: Re: Re: Removing head bolts - some questions ? ? ? ? ? in reply to jimmyzz, 11-28-2000 08:51:16

I've seen service manuals give two torque values -- one for clean, dry threads and one for oiled threads.

Your point is important.

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John Ne.

11-27-2000 08:30:54

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Re: Removing head bolts - some questions ? ? ? ? ? in reply to Alberta Mike, 11-26-2000 13:15:33

start with the penetrant now, by spring itll be working, tapping is good, so is light hammering with an impact wrench, (on low) only. also try mild tightening, then loosening. If the head stud is broken off even with the block, it will have to be drilled. If you have any qualms about it, take it to a repair/machine shop, as old as it is, and being a torqued head bolt really doubt it will come out easy.

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Dean

11-27-2000 04:10:44

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Re: Removing head bolts - some questions ? ? ? ? ? in reply to Alberta Mike, 11-26-2000 13:15:33

1) PB Blaster, tap with a hammer, let it set as long as you can.

2) When you get the rest of the head bolts out, the head will slip over the broken bolt. Then just grab the broken bolt, no longer in tension, and back out with your fingers.

3) Yes.

4) Studs allow more even clamping but unless you are prepared to spend a lot of time getting exactly the right studs for your application (and they may not exist) replacement bolts with a little anti-seize under the heads work well.

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kimk

11-26-2000 14:02:19

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Re: Removing head bolts - some questions ? ? ? ? ? in reply to Alberta Mike, 11-26-2000 13:15:33

Just my opinion but nothing beats penetrating oil, heat,(even just a propane torch but oxy acyteline is faster) a little gentle tapping and TIME. I think the secret is to soak/heat/tap it once or twice a day for a bunch of days. As for the broken stud, after you have given it the treatment you will need a stud puller. Looks like a steel disc maybe 2 inch in diameter w/ 1 or 2 holes for the stud. Inside there is a cam w/ a hardened knurled surface. Turn it w/ your 1/2 inch breaker bar and the cam bites into the stud and turns it out. You could use a pipe wrench butI think they tend to chew up the stud. Buy new bolts.Best of luck, let us know how it all turned out.

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kimk

11-26-2000 14:02:05

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Re: Removing head bolts - some questions ? ? ? ? ? in reply to Alberta Mike, 11-26-2000 13:15:33

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