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wood boiler

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monte

11-01-2004 07:15:23




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Has anyone ever built one or know where a person could get plans? I have a garage about 50 feet from the house and would like to put it in there. Thanks Monte




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Leland

11-02-2004 18:37:02




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 Re: wood boiler in reply to monte, 11-01-2004 07:15:23  

It should not be much of a problem we have a floor heater at work runs off gas though, but this system is non pressurised and it uses a 3/4 hp boiler pump and it moves a lot of water. all you would need is 3/8s to 7/16 plate build box put heavy coil inside line with fire brick, put in block building outside and bury pipe and that should do it these look simple from the few I have seen and the plumbing will cost more than the stove will cost to build.

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johnh

11-02-2004 01:36:38




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 Re: wood boiler in reply to monte, 11-01-2004 07:15:23  
my wife"s uncle has built many of the open system outdoor boilers, he uses 1/2 inch wall pipe (big pipe) and the oldest one is nearing 20 years with no failures, when my purchased stove goes out i am going to build my own also. Good Luck!



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John *.?-!.* cub owner

11-01-2004 18:43:56




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 Re: wood boiler in reply to monte, 11-01-2004 07:15:23  
One thing to remeber, is that since thye use water, freezing in cold weather is a problem if it isn't fired all the time.



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Leland

11-02-2004 18:31:38




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 Re: wood boiler in reply to John *.?-!.* cub owner, 11-01-2004 18:43:56  
Not if you mix anti freeze 50-50 this is what we use in our floor heat at work same system.



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Chuck MI

11-01-2004 12:13:08




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 Hmmm... in reply to monte, 11-01-2004 07:15:23  
There are a thousand legal liability reasons why you shouldn't build your own boiler. I'm no expert, but I've worked enough with boilers and welding to know that I wouldn't build my own no matter how good I get at welding. Just too many things to go wrong.

To put it simply, if you were experienced enough that you should be building boilers, you wouldn't be asking advice on a tractor page.

No offense intended. This just isn't a do it yourself project.

Chuck

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JMS/MN

11-01-2004 23:21:59




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 Re: Hmmm... in reply to Chuck MI, 11-01-2004 12:13:08  
So if you build your own, would you have to sue yourself if it did not work out? I've had a factory unit for many years that operates on 15 lbs pressure, but I see no reason why someone couldn't build his own atmospheric unit (non-pressurized), and get along fine with it. It has advantages over the pressurized boiler. Just an open top heated water barrel, with a circulating pump to push hot water through radiators, floor tubing, etc. Put the pump on the bottom and push water wherever you need it. No need to bleed air out like with the pressurized systems. I have a neighbor with a homemade open system who heats his house, shop, domestic water and steam cleaner with it- all courtesy of junk pallet wood.

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paul

11-02-2004 19:42:13




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 Re: Hmmm... in reply to JMS/MN, 11-01-2004 23:21:59  
The negative is that they get disolved o2 in the water, & rust out more quickly. A closed lightly pressurized system does last longer.

--->Paul



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paul

11-01-2004 18:04:14




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 Re: Hmmm... in reply to Chuck MI, 11-01-2004 12:13:08  
Lots of folks do, if he is not putting it in his dwelling, it probably would fly. While you can get pressurized (15lbs or so) and they are _much_ better quality, many outdoor models are open air storage tanks, and are not really pressurized. Not to brush off your concerns, yes there is liability, but keeping the unit out of the house & not pressurized makes it much less of a deal to those in charge of our lives - govt regulators & insurance companies.

Unless the garage is being used to store vehicles, then you get into the fumes issue - that building & contents might not be insurable. I'm assuming a dedicated heating building here?

Probably be a lot more efficient to buy one tho, a pressurized system is much more stable, less likely to leak, easier to plumb, & efficient, if you count the wood you need to work over the next 15-20 years. Lot of commercial models out there to choose from. Just went through a search for one for the house last year, there are many out-building models it seems. There are tons of outdoor wood furnaces, but they lack any quality control at all, as for the above reasons there are few regulations. The safest models are presurized to go in a dwelling, as they need to pass serious testing.

--->Paul

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monte

11-02-2004 07:04:21




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 Re: Hmmm... in reply to paul, 11-01-2004 18:04:14  
Yes Paul and others; That is all I was looking for something that wasnt persurized. That I could set out in the garage wouldnt have to be that big my house isnt. The magazine Mother Earth News has plans for an outdoor type furnace also havent seen those. No as the one poster talks about I wouldnt want to make anything that is preasurized. Thanks monte



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jdemaris

11-02-2004 15:36:57




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 Re: Hmmm... in reply to monte, 11-02-2004 07:04:21  
I am updating my wood heating system, and did quite a bit of research on the subject. In brief, this is what I've found. Almost anything sold that's called a "furnace" is exempt from EPA testing and regulations - and for that reason, they use old technology and are quite inefficient. If you have all the wood you need, then perhaps that's not a big issue except for creote buildup in chimney. I know many people that have outdoor wood boilers, and they use MUCH more wood than they did with indoor units. If furnaces received the technology that wood stoves do, we'd have something. To my knowledge, there is one wood furnace on the market, anywhere, that has been tested by the EPA and exceed their efficiency standards. It is a hot-air wood furnace called the EPA Caddy and sold in Quebec. I tried to buy one and gave up. I had the company on the phone and, once finding someone who would speak English, they refused to sell it to me - maybe because I don't speak French? Who knows. I've also read that the Swedish Tarm wood boiler is one of the most efficient in the world. I probably should of priced one. They claim to exceed EPA standard but have not been tested. The US dealer's website is at: Link One other comment. I was looking for stainless-steel chimeny pipe and found that the Canadian standards are much more strict than in the US, and ergo, the Canadian pipe is safer and better. I've got some on order but had a heck of a time finding one willing to sell it to me in the U.S.

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paul

11-02-2004 19:39:49




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 Re: Hmmm... in reply to jdemaris, 11-02-2004 15:36:57  
Tarm is either side of $4000 - that was last year (all prices I mention were last year). AHS also makes well recieved units, about the same price. There are several other companies that build for about $2500-3000.

These are all indoor, in your house, boilers built to high standards. You can place them out in a shed if you want.

There are several companies making something similar that are not certified to go in a dwelling, but are pretty good for this type of installation. They are $1700 - 2500 for the most part. A niffty looking one was made in northern Minnesota - Brainerd I think, or Bemidji.

The oudoor stand alone inefficient models all seem $3000-4000 and really get mixed results from folks on the internet.

Took a lot of time on Google to find all those last year, but local dealers all shrugged their shoulders when I asked about a wood boiler... ;)

--->Paul

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dswain

07-04-2005 05:55:26




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 Re: Hmmm... in reply to paul, 11-02-2004 19:39:49  
The AHS referred to above is Alternate Heating Systems, Inc. of Harrisonville, PA (www.alternateheatingsystems.com) which manufactures a line of wood gasification boilers. These wood boilers work by drawing the wood gases off and then burning them underneath the wood so that much more complete combustion occurs. The wood is continually heated by the burning gases beneath it so that the gases continue to rise from the wood (the wood itself doesn't burn - only the gases). Because of the more complete combustion, the stack temperature typically runs less than 300 degrees F. The fan that draws the gases off the wood also draws the fly ash out in a way that it scours the inside of the chamber making for a very clean burning system. This system also allows wood with a higher moisture content to be burned than non-gasification wood boilers.

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jdemaris

11-03-2004 05:40:58




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 Re: Hmmm... in reply to paul, 11-02-2004 19:39:49  
That's not a bad price for the Tarm if they do what they claim. As far as outdoor units, best price I got here in Central New York State was around $7000, and that's with me installing it. That's for a unit with a stainless-steel firebox. But, most wood boilers are inherently problematic by design because the wood fire gets cooled to an inefficient temperature. Compound that with the way many outside furnaces are used, and they become extremely inefficient. Most owners I know or have spoken to regard their outdoor furnaces as "fireproof" since they are not attached to their houses. Subsequently, they burn wet and/or green wood, trash, and also let them smolder on fairly warm days. I've yet to find someone that uses their outdoor furnace with the same care as an inside unit normally receives, so comparing is difficult. Many companies that sell such furnaces advertise them as being able to burn green wood, unsplit wood, etc. I heat my barn and workshop with oil-hot air and/or a convection wood furnace. I keep the thermostat set at 35 degrees F., and only turn it up when I'm working in there. When it gets real cold, or I'm working for a long time, I fire up the wood furnace. When it gets -20 to -30F, I keep it going constantly. My house has oil hot-air and a woodstove. As long as I'm home to load it, the woodstove heats the entire house unless the temp. gets down below zero F. So, I've hemmed and hawed, and finally decided to build an addition on the house that will store firewood and install a wood furnace in. At first, I was considering installing a Tarm boilter, and then using a water-to-air heat exchanger to connect it to my two oil-hot-air systems (house and barn) along with a very large heated water tank. This would enable me to fire up the furnace every couple of days, heat a large amount of water, and then shut it down. But time is getting short before winter, I got fed up, and bought a simple, crude (by today's standards) hot air wood furnace. I will pipe one underground heat duct to my barn that is only 75 feet from my house. Just buying a conventional wood furnace was not easy. Many companies exagerate, or just plain lie about the furnaces they sell. I wanted a furnace with a heavy-duty firebox since I've had lots of experience repairing burnt out baffles and fireboxes. Tractor Supply Company sells furnaces made by United States Stove Company and has them in stock - for around $1800. But, the firebox looks thin and they offered little information on it. So, after a lot of looking around, I found a farm equipment manufacturer that makes and sells furnaces called "The Woodchuck." The company is Meyers. They market their large furnace as having a 4 gauge steel, firebrick lined firebox, so I bought one for over $2000. Got it home, unpacked it, and found out they lied - plain an simple. The upper part of the firebox IS 4 gauge, but the lower part - which gets hidden by the firebrick, is like a beer can and is only 12 gauge steel. I called the company, complained, and they offered me a $200 refund which I took only because I am so frustrated. In retrospect, I probably should have bought the Tarm but I need to get something done. After getting this Woodchuck furnace that was misrepresented, and having the Canadian company basically refuse to sell me their EPA rated furnace, I gave up. Maybe I would have been ahead to buy a used furnace for $100, they are in the newspaper often. My new "Woodchuck model 4000" still sits on my trailer, and I have moments when I feel like calling up New York State Consumer Fraud - but - I bought it through a local "mom and pop" dealer. They are nice people that I've known for over 20 years, and I don't want them involved. The Meyer's Company has their furnaces with the "specifications" at:
http://www.meyermfg.com/woodchuck.html

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monte

11-04-2004 19:20:54




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 Re: Hmmm... in reply to jdemaris, 11-03-2004 05:40:58  
jd; My garage is about 50 feet from the house. I would like to put the furance in there. How will you pipe the warm air over and what will you do for return air? How big a duct will you use? Thanks Monte



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jdemaris

11-05-2004 05:22:45




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 Re: Hmmm... in reply to monte, 11-04-2004 19:20:54  
I'm going to use insulated 10" flexible heat duct, put it inside some plastic culvert pipe, and bury it a little below ground. I'm experimenting and there will be NO cold-air return. If I was trying to keep the remote building warm, I'd do things different. But, . . . the barn/shop already has an oil hot-air furnace and a gravity wood furnace, so I have no problem getting it warm when I am actually working in there. I am trying to find a way to keep the building a little above freezing when I'm not using it, and that is all this duct has to accomplish. If I had a wood boiler instead of a hot-air furnace, I'd put a water-to-air heat excanger in the barn's oil furnaces hot-air plenum - and I'd do the same for the house. That way all could be connected with undergroud insulated water pipes.

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paul

11-03-2004 07:51:07




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 Re: Hmmm... in reply to jdemaris, 11-03-2004 05:40:58  
I should say the $4000 was for the regular Tarm, no frills. They also make a wood gasifier that is about double that price. It is the one that might get close to EPA standards.... Tarm strongly recommends the water storage unit, which is not at all cheap. They have such tiny fireboxes tho, 15" long wood, I would have difficulty making all kindling sized pieces. My grove is 3 acres or so, and simpler to make twice as much wood & keep it good sized chuncks than to make tiny little bits of firewood! :)

--->Paul

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jdemaris

11-03-2004 14:28:29




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 Re: Hmmm... in reply to paul, 11-03-2004 07:51:07  
The Candian EPA rated wood furnace also has a small firebox. So does the Yukon-Eagle. That's one of the reasons I bought the Woodchuck with the large firebox.



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VaTom

11-03-2004 18:37:02




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 Re: Hmmm... in reply to jdemaris, 11-03-2004 14:28:29  
Well, if you"ll come after it I"ll make you an excellent deal on one that will take 4" logs. It was an almost unused backup to a solar system that once heated 6 apartments. Found out that I"d never be able to use enough hot water to keep the fire from going out.

IIRC, it"s 5/16" steel. My Cat knew there was something there when I moved it. Also not EPA.



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