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This pump is listed as a 10-25 hp pump. Since minimum RPM is 400, that is what I suspect it will run at for a 10 hp motor. That is a beast of a compressor for 10 hp, it should last you for as long as you live. It is listed as putting out 33 CFM at 10 hp. I would try to run it at as high a voltage as I could, to keep amp draw as low as possible. Aren't you using up all the capacity of your phase converter if you run this compressor? I don't understand the idea of putting a second motor between the pump and motor. Just gear the 1750 RPM motor you have to turn the pump at 400 rpm. You will probably have to fabricate an adapter motor mount, as I doubt the motors will have the same frame. The motor should have a stout shaft (1 1/8" or more) to take the tension from the belts. As for your 325, the lip seals in your hydraulic unloader may be wearing out, preventing it from shutting off air to the unloader towers. If the unloaders are held open a bit, air will drain from the cylinders, out into the towers and through the small vent hole. Alternately, there are two brass plungers in the unloader towers that are shaped like oversize poppet valves. These plungers have embedded silicone o-rings in them, in what would be the valve seat area of a car engine's valve. These o-rings seat against the upper surface of the unloader tower when control air is removed from the unloader system, This seals air inside the cylinder when the pump is operating. These o-rings can wear, and allow air from the cylinders to vent through the unloader vent holes as well. You can unscrew the unloader towers by removing the air lines from the top, and simply twisting them counter clockwise. The plungers will slide right out (unless they are seied, which could also lead to air leaks). You will see the silicone o-rings on the upper surface of the plunger's "puck" end. If they are worn, there is a very small roll pin that you can punch out. The big end of the plunger will fall off, and you can renew the o-ring. Other than that, hard water scale can seize up the small steel pucks under the rubber diaphragm in the uppermost part of the unloader tower, causing inconsistent operation. You will also have to remove the control air lines to check this, except this time you will take out the screws holding the upper unloader tower cover on (the hexagonal aluminum covers). If you can, remove the rubber diaphragm as one piece, though this is often impossible once they are old and brittle. You will soon see if you have hard water deposits or rust here. Best remedy for either is abrasive blasting, although CLR can eliminate hard water deposits in a pinch (takes overnight soaking to do this). None of these repairs is difficult or expensive. I doubt there is anything seriously wrong with your machine.
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