Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Pole Barn Insulation Help

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
D.Andersen

10-20-2004 12:13:24




Report to Moderator

Need suggestions on the best way to insulate a pole barn in Northern MN. 42 x 25 section making into a shop. Had heat installed in floor when built. For ceiling I was planning to put in vapor barrier, then siding material, then blown insulation. For the walls I was thinking of using same metal siding as ceiling for interior--ease of install, upkeep and expense. Do I need to install additional studs and use regular fiberglass insulation batts & vapor barrier? Are there larger sized rolls that would do the trick and still have high R rating? Do I need some kind of barrier between the metal exterior and insulation? I'd appreciate any advice!

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Dan k

10-21-2004 07:36:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: Pole Barn Insulation Help in reply to D.Andersen, 10-20-2004 12:13:24  
Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs) are prefabricated insulated structural elements for use in building walls, ceilings, floors and roofs. They replace conventional stud or "stick frame" construction. You can get them in 8,10,&12 ft lengths They do not require a wall...fasten directly to poles. OSB on both sides do an internet search on them lots of info to consider
dan k



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
John Humphrey Morocco IN.

10-21-2004 04:58:02




Report to Moderator
 Re: Pole Barn Insulation Help in reply to D.Andersen, 10-20-2004 12:13:24  
My shop is 38" X 42" X 12" and heats with a 50,000 BTU furnace. Interior is finished with barn metal. Contractor used insulation bats that were the same width as the post and expanded to fill. Overhead has 15" to 16" of blowed in insluation. I do not have any trouble keeping it warm enough to work in during below 0 weather. Oh-yes, also cools very nicely with 2 1/2 ton of A/C. Had to do the A/C because of the machine shop equipment.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
VADAVE

10-21-2004 04:10:36




Report to Moderator
 Re: Pole Barn Insulation Help in reply to D.Andersen, 10-20-2004 12:13:24  
When I did mine in '94 I framed out the inside between the poles then used regular bat insulation--6 inch thick. It works but seemed like a lot of work to put up studs just to hold insulation and plywood.
Right now am putting one together for a "pump house" and will use the spray on polyurthene(sp). Did a internet seach on foam insulation and found a do it your-self product. Seems high priced but bet when i do the side-by-side they are pretty comparible.
Recommend sealing it as tight as you can. Don't forget the gaps caused by the shape of the siding.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
JD-Tractor

10-20-2004 19:43:17




Report to Moderator
 Re: Pole Barn Insulation Help in reply to D.Andersen, 10-20-2004 12:13:24  
working on my garage/shop here in upstate NY, I have steel roof on top of 2X4 purlins on top of trusses,plan on putting celotex sheets on underside of purlins and leaving the 2x4 space between celotex and steel roofing open for ventilation and the put whatever over the celotex on the underside .should work quite well and be relatively inexpensive



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
fixerupper

10-20-2004 19:26:45




Report to Moderator
 Re: Pole Barn Insulation Help in reply to D.Andersen, 10-20-2004 12:13:24  
I built my shop in 1982. It's a metal pole barn with 8' spacing on the poles and horizontal 2x6 studs spaced at 24"between the poles. There is 6" kraft backed fiberglass in the walls and 12" of blown-in in the ceiling. I made sure the vapor barrier on the inside of the insulation was very air tight. The inside walls are painted particle board (poor choice). The ceiling insulation shows lines where the condensation from the bottom of the steel roof was dripping on it, but the moisture didn't soak in more than an inch. I live in NW Iowa and the shop is very easy to heat. Make sure you take the time to do a tight job because the smallest air leak will lose an amazingly large amount of heat. Good luck on your project and enjoy your warm building when you are done.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Mike M

10-20-2004 18:49:32




Report to Moderator
 Re: Pole Barn Insulation Help in reply to D.Andersen, 10-20-2004 12:13:24  
In the middle of doing one right now.Doing some of it myself and having a local major insulating company do some. Per their recommendation put 2x4's on the inside of the posts 2 feet on center--just like they did on the outside---posts are 8 feet on center so they use R19 kraft faced material precut 2 feet by 8 feet stack this in horizontaly to the top put baffles underside of roof out to ventilated eaves,then put up your steel siding for a ceiling on the trusses that are 4 feet on center so they can blow in fiberglass to R 30 you can also put up your side wall siding.They have done many this way hope they know what they are doing. Sounds good to me except I found one flaw--sort of--when you stack the insulation on itself you don't have the studs in there to take up 1 1/2 inches every row like in a normal wall so they don't fall in the center of the studs the higher up the worse it gets but the steel siding will hold it in.They also do the spray on icycene ? insulation but it is a lot more money and it can seal it up too tight they won't do it in a house unless you have an air exchanger set up to keep fresh air supplied.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

10-20-2004 17:46:45




Report to Moderator
 Re: Pole Barn Insulation Help in reply to D.Andersen, 10-20-2004 12:13:24  
I live in SW Kansas, not nearly as cold as MN. I used 2x6 studs (same width as the posts), Fiberglass bats in between, enclosed with OSB. Inspectors said OSB was ok in a private installation, but would not be approved for a business. I am aware of the fire potential but did not want sheet rock because of durability -- too easy to knock holes in it. Polyurethane was sprayed on the underside of the roof for a 30x30 work area inside a 30x60 building. Much easier for me than a ceiling. Heat is an overhead gas fired furnace (wish I had floor heat). Very easy to maintain 70 degrees, or more, more than 65-70 is too warm for a shop. This is excellent insulation for my climate as far as I'm concerned, the leakage is around my sliding door.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
jakej

10-21-2004 09:16:50




Report to Moderator
 Re: Pole Barn Insulation Help in reply to CNKS, 10-20-2004 17:46:45  
A neighbor built a 30x40 pole barn with heated floor. 12 ft ceiling w 12" blown insulation, all walls had foam sprayed. The foam cost was 2200$ but does a great job plus no condensation. In northern MI its great to walk to the barn and open the door to a 60% temp. He has an outside wood burner which heats the house and chicken coop.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
david - OR

10-20-2004 17:55:07




Report to Moderator
 Re: Pole Barn Insulation Help in reply to CNKS, 10-20-2004 17:46:45  
OSB or plywood works well as an air barrier, particularly if you tape the joints.

Polyurethane spray does not need an air barrier because it is dense enough to prevent air movement through it. Plus it does not care about condensation issues -- it does not absorb water and the really dense stuff is impenetrable.

The spray-on stuff runs $1.50 to $3.00 per square foot at R19. Kinda expensive, but it is very effective as an insulation.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

10-20-2004 19:52:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: Pole Barn Insulation Help in reply to david - OR, 10-20-2004 17:55:07  
I paid about $1400 in 2001 for the polyurethane on underside of the 30x30 roof (peaked, CRS prevents me from figuring the exact sq ft), pretty close to $1.50/sq ft. We have a lot of wind here, the part without the insulation is noisy, very quiet in the work area with the roof insulated. Warmer in winter, probably 10-15 degrees cooler in the summer. Joints in the OSB aren't taped but match the 24 inch spacing of the 2x6's, plus I used trim strips over the joints to cover up my nonexistant carpenter skills after I installed the OSB.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
david - OR

10-20-2004 13:16:20




Report to Moderator
 Re: Pole Barn Insulation Help in reply to D.Andersen, 10-20-2004 12:13:24  
Drywall, properly taped, would be vastly superior to metal siding. Drywall provides fire resistance and is an efficient air barrier. With two coats of latex paint, you should not need a vapor barrier in the attic, assuming the attic is ventilated. (I am assuming you will not have high-humidity activities like animals or extensive latex painting in the shop).

The problem with metal siding is that it will leak heated air around all the joints. This in turn will transport interior heat and moisture into and through the insulation, compromising its effectiveness. Air currents can blow right through fiberglass -- fiberglass is almost worthless as an insulation unless installed in contact with a good air barrier.

Your vapor barrier will not be a particularly good air barrier if you install metal siding over the top of it. All of the nail and screw holes will puncture the vapor barrier and allow air leaks.

You also need to think about condensation on the underside of the roof metal. If this drips down onto your insulation and soaks it, it will take a very long time to dry out, and it will be less effective while it is wet.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
JM

10-23-2004 14:00:58




Report to Moderator
 Re: Pole Barn Insulation Help in reply to david - OR, 10-20-2004 13:16:20  
I have a metal pole barn 40 X60.
Have sectioned off a 24 X 30 area which I intend to heat. The ceiling insulation I have installed is as follows: 1)span the 8' spaced trusses with 1/2" foam board and placed R13 kraft faced fiberglass on top.

2) the partition walls are studded ,sheetrocked , and insulated with r13 fiberglass as well.

3) I was planning to place 1 1/2" foam insulation adjacent to the outside metal walls as this fits between the 2x4 "purlins".

Any advice , comments or condemnations?
I am allways loooking for good advice,
Thanks in advance.
JM

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy