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Need old Kellogg compressor help

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Zira

11-09-2000 18:35:15




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I have an old Kellogg air compressor. The model is K58, serial number is B83425, made by Kellogg Div. of American Brake Shoe & Foundry. The motor is long gone. I would like to know if a manual and parts are available for it, and what size & speed motor it should have. It also appears to need new intake & exhaust valves for it, and possibly rings. If these are not available, is it possible to buy standard replacement valves? I could enlarge/bush the holes in the head, or use
an in-line type valve. This compressor also had a metal ring (larger than a piston ring) in the base whose correct position & purpose I do not understand. Can you provide any insight? Compair denies any knowledge of units this old.

Thanks in advance.

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Roger Prosper

11-09-2000 19:42:32




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 Re: Need old Kellogg compressor help in reply to Zira, 11-09-2000 18:35:15  
I have never heard of a K58. American Brake Shoe Company owned Kellogg before CompAir, so I am not surprised that they have no information on it. To find the horsepower of the motor required, find the displacement of each first stage cylinder. Add them up. You will need 1 hp for every 10 cubic inches of first stage displacement. The first stage is the cylinder that takes the air from atmosphere through the air filter. If it is a single cyliner pump, then it would be the displacement of that cylinder. If it is a two cylinder, single stage pump, then it would be the displacement of both cylindes. If it is a two cylinder, two stage pump, it would be the displacement of the first stage cylinder. And lastly, if it is a four cylinder, two stage pump, it would be the displacement of the two first stage cylinders.

Displacement of a cylinder is found by:

(Pi/4) x Diameter Squared x Stroke.

Remember, 1hp for every 10 cubic inches of first stage displacement.

The ring you refer to is the oiler ring. It runs in the groove machined into the crankshaft ( a sharp V groove, near the very center of the crankshaft). If your pump has the split back crankcase, you have to put the ring onto the crankshaft, lift it in through the back of the crankcase, twist the metal ring so it slides into the guide cast onto the bottom of the crankcase, then let it hang straight down again. Not easy to do when you are holding a built crankshaft with rods and pistons flopping about.

The guide on the crankcase bottom is not easy to describe, but from the Kelloggs I have worked on, it is two cast posts, with a third post with a hook on the end, in between the other two. This hook prevents the ring from riding out of the top as the crank spins. This ring carries oil up to the crankshaft, which has little holes drilled into the nook of the groove machined on it. The oil runs into these holes and centrifugal force creates oil pressure which lubricates the bottom end. This pump probably has needle wrist pin bearings, which was a nice feature of Kelloggs and allieviated the wrist pin problems so common to compressors.

Beware that the split back crankcase was easy to strip, and even crack, when torquing down the bolts in the rear bearing carrier. If your crank has Timken taper bearings, be sure to properly shim the carrier for correct bearing end play as well. Kelloggs lasted a long time, but the quality of the cast iron in them resembled cheese and was extremely easy to strip threads in.

Don't know about the valves. Probably could cross reference them to another Kellogg. See if the name Hoerbiger is evident on any of them. Hoerbiger may still have the bits. If them are the cast iron bodied ones with the three oval holes in them, I would be confident of finding parts at a Kellogg dealer, if you bring in samples to cross reference them to.

Kellogs are from the good old days when manufacturers solved structural problems by adding more cast iron. I guess there was a lot of surplus military equipment to get rid of.

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Glenn Arnette

08-08-2002 19:46:06




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 Re: Re: Need old Kellogg compressor help in reply to Roger Prosper, 11-09-2000 19:42:32  
I have an old Compair compressor that I can not find the model number on. It is a rather large unit with a 16 inch pully. Suggestions on how to find the model number would help. Also, I have a 5 hp motor that I intend to use. What is the drive to compressor pulley ratio? I am also trying to find an air filter for the compressor any ideas or numbers would be greatly appreciated. On further note the 60 gallon tank is a Kellogg American built on 11/1946 with a wp200 stamped on it. Is that the working pressure of the tank? What pressure switch would work for this combination of parts? Thanks I look forward to your reply.

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Zira

11-10-2000 05:03:29




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 Re: Re: Need old Kellogg compressor help in reply to Roger Prosper, 11-09-2000 19:42:32  
Roger -

Wow! Thanks for the detailed reply. My compressor is a small, one-stage unit. It only has a single(long)crankshaft bearing on one side - in fact, it really looks like 1/2 a standard crankshaft. The oil ring mount looks like a small piece of stamped steel, with a screw hole in the center, and a small hole in each end. The holes in the ends are worn through; the screw in the center holds the piece in to the casting. The ring is not vertical, it is at about a 20 degree angle - does this sound correct/typical?

On the valve, there is no name evident on them, and I beleive I will have to destroy them to get them out. Is this style of round, press-in valve common? I don't mind using an "incorrect" valve if necessary, I just want it to work & be serviceable.

Thanks again.

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Roger Prosper

11-10-2000 18:49:13




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 Re: Re: Re: Need old Kellogg compressor help in reply to Zira, 11-10-2000 05:03:29  
I would be surprised if a 20 degree angle is right. The ring must be vertical so it rotates freely with just the friction of the smooth, oiled groove it runs in. I can't see it doing that at such an angle. Sounds like a small, one cylinder pump. Does the end of the crank hang freely at the back? I have worked on a few old Websters like this. The crank was free to move in and out until the flywheel was attached. The valves are probably not "press in" but are likely seized in due to burnt oil and rust. Do they have retaining covers on the head? Compressor ressurection suceeds or fails on the availability to find valves. IF you can't find any, it is a boat anchor. Machining the heads to take other valves is possible, I guess, but how much money do you want to spend? If the valves are tiny, finding a cross reference will be difficult. Larger valves with the cast iron bodies may, MAY!,nearly cross reference to a Sanborn SC23. Smaller valves may, MAY!!!!,nearly cross reference to a small Champion pump. They might be modified to fit. Do not purchase anything on my word, but check it out for yourself.

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