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Old Air Compressor.??......Roger Prosper?

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JoeK

11-09-2000 14:16:02




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As a tinkerer I often come across things that others toss because "its old,not adequate,etc".As an example I recently was given an dirty old portable air compressor/tank.After power washing off yrs of crud and dirt,I found I had obtained a 60 yr old Devilbiss(military??).Pump is a Devilbiss Mod 220,Ser 352892.Tank was built/certified by Buckeye Boiler of Dayton in 1941.I have air/water tested the tank to 200+lbs(yes,safely)without any sign of leaks.Held pressure for a week w/o loss also.Question is this:What horsepower motor was standard/usual for this pump? Currently has modernish 1HP large frame
motor w/5 inch pulley to bring down RPMs to appx 900. I have been told these old Devilbiss 220s were about indestructable as long as oil was clean/full and not oversped(max 1000).Pump is clean/tight and I have refurbished the entire unit,but current motor is cosmetically wrong and not of proper frame and speed.Any info on this old unit appreciated.

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Joe C

07-20-2002 05:53:56




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 Re: Old Air Compressor.??......Roger Prosper? in reply to JoeK, 11-09-2000 14:16:02  
I too have and old DEVILBISS air compressor, and in need of some parts. It is a TYPE UAF 5286-5 #133643 US PAT 1931 165 PAT PENDING MODEL 342 SERIES # 113217 300 RPM

What I am looking for, is, valve seals, and springs, exhaust and intake. Any help with finding these parts, would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You
Joe C



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ltf in nc

11-09-2000 18:14:34




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 Re: Old Air Compressor.??......Roger Prosper? in reply to JoeK, 11-09-2000 14:16:02  
If the old motor that is on the unit will still run hook up the system and run it. With the compressor running loaded take a voltage and amp draw reading and that will mathmatically give you the wattage required to pull the compressor. Give yourself a margin (service factor) of error factor to compensate for a variance in temperature of 20% and mount a proper motor in that HP range. At 117 volts AC and a current draw of 5 amps times 1.2 equals .95 horsepower. Then a 1 horsepower motor would be required to run the pump. Since compressors are hard to start you will want to up the horsepower additionally to overcome this problem. Many old period motors do not have good starting capabilities and you may have to boost the motor size considerably to overcome this problem. A 2 hp motor would not be out of the question to correct this. However, once started, the motor will only draw enough power to develop the hp required to pull the pump and the power bill will be for the requirement, not the size of the installed motor.

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Roger Prosper

11-09-2000 19:18:27




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 Re: Re: Old Air Compressor.??......Roger Prosper? in reply to ltf in nc, 11-09-2000 18:14:34  
2hp is more than enough for a 220. Sheave the motor for the rpm's written on the metal tag on the compressor and check the amp draw. It should be well within the limits of a 2hp motor. 1hp will work as well if geared correctly for amp draw. Just don't expect a hurricane of air from it.
Yes, these units are very long lived, which is why they were often used for HVAC applications to run dampers and the like on duct work. If it is completely rebuilt, it should last you another 60 years! Compressors like this is why the DeVilbiss name was gold for so many years. I leave the tank usage to your discretion, but I have not seen a tank fail catastrophically, more along the lines of a pinhole leak, which usually gives you ample warning of rust-through. I have heard of parts getting scarce, as this unit is probably out of production now. There was also a single cylinder version called, not surprisingly, the 120. Make sure the unloader is set correctly, if it has one, so that when it shuts down, you get a short blast of air from the copper line which runs from the check valve, back behind to the unloader. Basically, it is just a centrifugal governor type of device which open and closes a needle valve to let the pump and check valve blow down when the compressor stops. There is a lock nut on the unloader which can be loosened to allow you to turn the unloader mechanism in or out to set it up for porper operation. If it doesn't have this setup, run the copper line from the check valve to the needle valve on the pressure switch, which does the same thing. If the compressor is not unloaded after shutdown, you will probably blow the breakers on start up, and cause the motor to work very hard indeed.

This is a single stage unit, so don't set the pressure above 125 psi.

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Joe K

11-09-2000 20:27:31




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 Re: Re: Re: Old Air Compressor.??......Roger Prosper? in reply to Roger Prosper, 11-09-2000 19:18:27  
Thanx to both of you for your info.Unit is up and running at present.Motor is Marathon Electric capacitator start,1hp,1725RPM,running a 5" pulley to the 10"Pulley/flywheel on the pump.Tag on pump gives RPM limit as 1100 @ 50PSI or 850(?)@150 PSI.Minimum of 300RPM.If my math is right,at 1725 Motor speed and w/given pulley sizes pump should be running appx 860 RPM.Sounds real good,no sign of load on motor,even at shutoff pressure. Unloader is working fine thru SquareD pressure switch and currently gauge shows 129 at shut down
Its no tornado.but will make a good tire pumper/air duster.

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