Homemade air compressor

Shane

The ones I have seen used a water jug instead of a radiator. They capped off the radiator hose outlets and then left the water pump running and piped the old heater hose outlets to be circulating thru a 5 gallon water keg to keep the heads from cracking from heat stress.

I don"t remember what these fellers use for coolant but I do remember that water would not keep the heads cool enough.

The combustion chamber works against you (in effect, the higher the compression ratio, the better), for more efficiency, and less waste heat, so taller pistons, or a head with a flat bottom (no combustion chamber) would be better.

What will putting weaker springs on the intake valves do for you if you have no cam shaft to open them in the first place? And the existing valve springs are what close the valves in time before the piston slaps them through the head - don't think music wire would do it.

Are you serious? Or are you joking.

Admittedly, with help I converted a air conditioner compressor to an onboard air compressor (same brackets mounted to the engine in the same place) and used a home made tube bumper made out of water pipe on an old 4x4 as holding tank. But that was before could buy a small battery operated job from Walmart for $30 to carry under the seat.

You build this thing, then post a picture of it. I want to see it when it's done. Not trying to discourage you, just think need to rethink it a little.

Mark - IN.

Schramm, Smith, Worthington and I presume other companies have used modified automotive blocks to build compressors. Efficiencies and longevity can't compare to modern screw type compressors that can achieve 50,000-75,000 hours with minimal maintenance.

Let me say that I won't REMOVE the cam just disable it, needs to stay in place for proper engine oiling. The weak valve springs are so that when the down travel of the piston creates a vaccum the valve will open by itself. This design is probably pretty ineffecient and dual check valves in a 1" plate that replaces the head would be alot better and only slightly more $$$.

My only real concern is how much heat will it make, dont want to complicate it with a radiator and fan. If heat is a issuse I will lean towards a air cooled VW or V4 wisconsin.

Thanks for the input

Shane

Reciprocating comprerssor valves have a tendency to carbon up. Care has to be taken with their design.

You may find that your cam is needed to power the oil pump. If not, the cam can be discarded and the cam bearings rotated to shut off flow.

Crude valves will have no way to unload. The compressor will blow off the tank safety valve when delivered CFM exceeds demand.

You could think about getting a trashed tag-a-long contractor compressor and toss the motor. You will need to find a way to increase the rpm from 540 to around 2000.

Your cheapest way out (if time = money) is to buy a used complete running tag compressor. It will have all the filters, control circuits, safety items in place. It will be more efficient and retain its value should you want to sell it. Sometimes, it is just better to let the experts engineer and build it.

I am someone who has 1600 horsepower worth of air in seven compressors. I started with only an air brake compressor hooked up to a Farmall Cub. I have been where you are at. I advise you not to waste your time and money.