Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Tool Talk Discussion Forum

TIG/Stick Welder Questions

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
CMAC

09-17-2004 08:00:34




Report to Moderator

Looking at upgrading from my small MIG welder and have a couple of questions:

When looking at the TIGs, they never have a rating for the thickness that can be welded. The ones that I have looked at are rated 160AMP DC and 200AMP DC. How thick can these weld?

Most of the TIGs can do either TIG or stick. What circumstances determine which method to use?

Thanks.




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
T_Bone

09-18-2004 07:11:12




Report to Moderator
 Re: TIG/Stick Welder Questions in reply to CMAC, 09-17-2004 08:00:34  
Hi CMac,

When looking at buying a Tig unit you want the lowest possible amperage, usually 30amps is adaquote, as that allows for welding thinn metals. If your typical welding projects is welding 30ga or lighter then you would want a machine that would go 5amps.

You can cheat here and use my homemade dropper resistor as explained below:

To use that machine effectively then you need to use a dropper resistor made from a piece of 3/32" or 1/8" filler rod, depending on the amount of amps you want to drop.

Attach the 1/8" filler rod to the welding bench with a vise-grip and let it hang vertical then attach the ground clamp to the other end of the filler rod.

As the arc is established the filler rod (dropper resistor) will begin to heat thus lowering out-put amps at the torch.

CAUTION as the filler rod can become cherry red dpending on the amount of amps being dropped.

To adjust for the correct amount of amps required of the weldment, one could trim the filler rod to different lengths or change the diameter although I've never found this to be necessary.

So with this little trick on a typical homeshop/industrail welding machine, 30amps would be adaquote for the low side. A fine infinite amperage control adjustment is a huge plus on a machine.

On the high side you want about 120amps @ 60% to 100% duty cycle with most dry torchs as you can not stand the heat of the torch above 120amps for very long on your hand. Most dry torchs are rated too 150amps but at 150a or exceeding 150a will melt the torch in a very short time.

If welding continously at high amps then you might want to consider a wet torch or water cooled. I've used a 500amp wet torch at 360amps welding a CU brew kettle and it was not fun even with multiple layered gloves and extra heat shields on my hood.

On any welding process you can always make a multiple pass weld on thicker material so you want a machine that can do 150amps @ 60% duty cycle. This applies to most all welding applications. If the welding process is automated or in a production enviroment only then you would want a machine with a higher amperage and duty cycle rating.

What welding process to use is determine by several considerations. I'll give a few examples:

I spec'd a 6ft diameter valve to be welded at a Nuke plant with Tig (GTAW). What I was after is the most pure weldment possible with the least amount of possible mistakes, inclusions with-in the weldment.

On a 4" steam pipe I would spec the root pass as Tig with the rest being SMAW (stick) welded. On 2" or less it would be Tig all the way. The root pass of any weldment is the most critical and any flaw here would most likely follow thru to the cover pass.

I would spec Tig on a SS sink and counter top weld as I want the least amount of heat distrotion, be easy to finish the weld, obtain 100% penetration on a single pass weld. Stick/Mig welding here would surely distort the SS into a mess that was not usable.

I would spec SMAW or GMAW (Mig) on a 3/16" plate where I want 100% root penetration in one pass with some inclusions with-in the weldment aceptable. Here joint type would be critical as were using 3/16" plate and have some concern about weld distortion in a single pass. Change that 3/8" plate and our concerns are much less as we could use a multiple pass weld, letting the plate cool between each pass.

This should give you a good idea of why we spec different weld processes. I've only scratched the surface of this topic as it can get very in depth on all the considerations required.

T_Bone

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
TonyD

09-18-2004 07:45:40




Report to Moderator
 Re: TIG/Stick Welder Questions in reply to T_Bone, 09-18-2004 07:11:12  
See, what did I tell you! T_Bone is smarter; more experienced, and has a better grasp of the English language than I do. Knew you could do it buddy. :)



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
TonyD

09-18-2004 06:10:29




Report to Moderator
 Re: TIG/Stick Welder Questions in reply to CMAC, 09-17-2004 08:00:34  
Hi CMAC, I�ll try to help you here. I have an early 1980�s Miller Gold Star 330A/BP TIG / Stick welder. In the 70�s and early 80�s these were a very fine welders, now a days they are just good boat anchors. The welders that are on the market now are in creditable. My machine is 300 AMP w/ 40 volts on AC, and 30 volts on DC. I just use straight argon gas with this welder when TIG welding. I really don�t know how thick of Aluminum one could weld with it. Remember you can use mixed gases to get more heat! I have welded lots of �� and some 3/8� Aluminum with it. All around the 200 + AMP range. I have the T-20 Tweco water-cooled torch, and the majority of the time I only run 3/32� tungsten. Now at 200 + amps you are pushing your luck! Should go up to 1/8�. Far as stick welding, I have run 5/32� 7018 with it, and no problems at all. Back in my days of really doing production welding I had a Diesel powered Miller Trail Blazer w/ wire feed. 450 AMP, but have seem over 500 Amp�s on the gauge. So I would always use it instead of pushing the Gold Star. I personally only use the TIG side for Aluminum, Stainless steel, and really thin materials. Or real small parts. With the foot pedal you have so much more control, for starts and stops. Hope this helps, sure I left something out. T-Bone will be along sooner or later and fill in the gaps, LOL!

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy