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Cutting torch problems

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JimC

10-28-2000 19:26:08




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Recently I have been having problems with my cutting torches. I have (3) one is a Vistor HD cutting only torch, one is a Harris medium duty combination torch, and one is a genaric copy of a Harris. My problem is that in the last 4 years I have blown out something in all three of the torches, when I press the lever all I get is a swhish of air, and no cutting ability. I never had this problem in 20 years of messing around with the same set ups, using them the same way.
I have had them rebuilt, but that is 40-50 bucks a crack, can anyone tell me what I am doing that may cause this problem? what the problem is? Is there ann easy fix like an Oring or something that I could repair myself?
Thanks in advance JimC

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Wayne Swenson

11-08-2000 20:45:47




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 Re: Cutting torch problems in reply to JimC, 10-28-2000 19:26:08  
Follow the "Alphabet rule" when starting and shutting down oxy-acetylene torches. (Acetylene comes before Oxygen). START UP:
1. Back out the regulator adjustment knob on both regulators so that there is no pressure on the internal diaphragms.
2. Check that both mixing chamber (handle) valves are shut (gently).
3. Gently open the Acetylene tank valve NOT MORE than 1/2 - 3/4 turn. 4. Adjust Acetylene hose pressure to 5-7 #. NEVER OVER 15#
5. MOMENTARILY turn on "A" mixing chamber valve and note that the low pressure stays about 5-7# when the gas is flowing. This is dangerous so be sure you are in a ventilated area.
6. Open Oxygen tank valve GENTLY-SLOWLY until pressure registers on the tank gauge. Then open the tank valve completely to prevent leaking at the valve stem.
7. Adjust Oxygen hose pressure to 25# or a little more for cutting, 8-10# for heating. Momentarily turn on the mixing chamber "O" valve to check that the pressure stays about 25#.
8. With very long hoses (over 15 feet or so) you may need to increase the hose pressure for both gasses. (NEVER OVER 15# FOR ACETYLENE)
9. When preparing to light the cutting torch attachment, a. Close the Oxygen preheat valve on the cutting attachment and open the mixing chamber Oxygen valve several turns. b. Light the preheat flame using the mixing chamber "A" valve. If the flame jumps away from the tip, you have too much pressure. Close the "A" valve a bit until the flame connects to the tip and then set the flame so there is not any excessive smoke. c. Gently open the cutting attachment "O" valve, adjusting for a neutral flame.
10. Press the cutting lever to test and observe the preheat flames. They should NOT jump or blow out. Adjust the preheat mixture for a steady flame.
SHUT DOWN:
11. TO TURN OFF THE FLAME, SHUT THE ACETYLENE MIXING CHAMBER VALVE FIRST TO STOP THE FLOW OF FUEL TO THE FIRE!! Not doing so may cause flames to travel back up the handle and hose to the regulator and tank. Don't invite us to the big barbecue you will create!!
12. The fire will be blown out by the oxygen and then you can shut off that valve.
13. Close the Acetylene tank valve and drain all pressure from the hose and regulator by opening the mixing chamber valve. Release pressure on the "A" regulator diaphragm compleltely only after both gauges read 0# pressure.
14. Close the Oxygen tank valve and drain all pressure from the hose and regulator by opening the preheat valve or pressing the cutting lever. Realease pressure on the "O" regulator diaphragm compleltely only after both gauges read 0# pressure.
15. Be sure the O-rings,connections, and hoses are in good shape and enjoy using your oxy-acetylene outfit.

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Steve U.S. Alloys

10-30-2000 05:57:49




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 Re: Cutting torch problems in reply to JimC, 10-28-2000 19:26:08  
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the e-mail and the vote of confidence.

I don't know how much help I can be on this one though. It's difficult to diagnose problems like this long distance. There is also a good deal of liability both on my part and yours should something go wrong.

You can do the simple checks that have been described by others. This would include checking the regs to see if they hold pressure when the O2 lever is depressed and ruling out a blocked hose. You could easily and inexpensively replace the o-rings. I would not recommend taking any of the gauges or regulators apart. There are certain areas where the manufacturer uses locktite or sealants. These fittings should not be tampered with. The same can be said for the gas valves on the torch body.

I rebuild all the torches that our customers send in for repair. One of the first things I do is check for obvious obstructions. This is done by using tip cleaners. I prefer the drill type. The drill type cleaners will reach the places the average person should maintain. Don't use shop air that can contain moisture or oil to blow out the inside of your torch. One common error that can lead to blockage stems from failure to crack the gas valve on the cylinder prior to mounting the regulators. Cracking the valve slightly and momentarily will clean out any foriegn debris that might be present in the valve fittings.

It sounds as if the same problem has developed with three different torches. This would make me suspect that the problem is originating between the cylinder valve and the torch handle. Once again, too difficult to say for sure w/o personal inspection.
Steve

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bbott

10-29-2000 08:37:17




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 Re: Cutting torch problems in reply to JimC, 10-28-2000 19:26:08  
You've had trouble with 3 different torches in the past couple years ?

I'd get your regulators into a shop and
have them checked pronto.

Regulator set 20 + years old ? They can go bad over time, especially if you don't 'back them off'
and bleed off residual pressure every time they
are gonna set for awhile.

IMHO Regulators are not that good of a thing to mess with at home. Even when I worked in a machine/fabrication shop we sent them out for repair.. didn't mess with them ourselves.

bb

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T_Bone

10-28-2000 22:29:20




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 Re: Cutting torch problems in reply to JimC, 10-28-2000 19:26:08  
Hi Jim, The center hole in the tip is the blow cutting hole, and if it's clean then check your regulator out put, of 40psi. Depress the cutting lever and watch how much the secondary gauge drops pressure. If it drops below 20psi and stays there you either have a bad check valve (anti-flash back valve)or a bad regulator or a plug or kink in the hose or a plug in the mixing/cutting chambers.

To check the hose for a plug, take off the torch and turn the regulator up to 60psi and turn the bottle on and see if you have good free flow. If thats ok then put the torch head on and remove the cutting tip. If good flow then then the tip is pluged, if not take the cutting head off the mixing chamber (the fist part of the torch with the valves) and run the same test. If ok flow the then there is a plug in the cutting chamber. If not then tear the secondary regulator apart looking for a plug. The system is very simple to work on.

T_Bone

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Stop what you are doing right now

10-29-2000 04:58:03




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 Re: Re: Cutting torch problems in reply to T_Bone, 10-28-2000 22:29:20  
Stop what you are doing right now you're going to blow someone up.This is as bad as giving electrical advise.



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T_Bone

10-29-2000 11:40:21




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 Re: Re: Re: Cutting torch problems in reply to Stop what you are doing right now , 10-29-2000 04:58:03  
I disagree with you. It's on the low pressure side and doesn't take alot to trouble shoot and is realitive safe. The problem will probablly lie in the cutting head. If on the high side, then yes, that takes a bit more precaution.

T_Bone



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Steve from Tn

10-28-2000 20:55:42




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 Re: Cutting torch problems in reply to JimC, 10-28-2000 19:26:08  
Jim, I would take the tips apart and give them a really good cleaning. I get the cleaning kit that looks like little bitty drill bits. These will clean the holes. I have been told that holding your tip too close to your work will cause the holes to stop up. I am certainly not an expert. Hope this helps some.



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