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Thanks fellas. Maybe shoulda asked a different ?

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Loren

09-06-2004 20:35:21




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Read through your replies and what cam to mind is maybe I don't need anything bigger than .045. I want to get started in my own manuf. outfit here, just part time to see if it'll fly. Be using mostly short(12"?) welds at a time. Maybe the occasional 3/4 and 1" material but for the most part up to 1/2" stuff. The reason for getting away from 3ph is the power company wants me to supply them with all next years operating budget just to get elect to the shop. It'll be about $3K from the street in.

I run a cute handy little 100a/110v Lincoln here too with argon/co2. It puts down a noticeably hotter and better looking weld than that 135 Miller at work. Both of the mig at work are co2 only so that's maybe the whole reason my dissapointment with them. Remember I'm pretty new at welding. Hmm. didn't tell you that did I. 2 years getting paid for it. I'd like to keep the R3S if I had power but won't afford a huge expense to run it inless I can really make it pay.
Guess I should know how thick a weld joint I should keep .045 at too. I'm thinking 1/2" is work with .045??
Probably getting myseldf more confused here.

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TonyD

09-07-2004 05:58:20




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 Re: Thanks fellas. Maybe shoulda asked a different in reply to Loren, 09-06-2004 20:35:21  
Hi Loren. When ever I hear of someone thinking about welding �� to 1� thick material with .045 wire it reminds me of a situation that happened about 25-years ago when I was working in a fab shop. One of the better welders in the shop was assigned to splice two 4�x8� plates �� think, the weld in the 8� direction. Both plates had single bevels on them with a backing plate that was to be arced off and welded from that side, the plates were also rolled to an 8-foot radius. The trick to this was it had to be die penetrate tested, why on mild steel, I don�t remember. Anyway the welder did not want to take the time to switch his wire feeder from .045 wire to 1/16� wire. The top welder in the shop, whom I think was about as close to being in T_Bone�s league as you could get. Warned him not to weld that thick of plate with .045 wire. He did it any way. After the QC department threw the last can back in their box. You never saw so much red come through in your life. The welder almost got fired over it. The shop super and the top welder figured it was to labor intense to try and repair, so the joint was cut out and redone, OUCH! Lesson learned on my part.

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T_Bone

09-07-2004 16:30:10




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 Re: Thanks fellas. Maybe shoulda asked a different in reply to TonyD, 09-07-2004 05:58:20  
Hi Loren,

Well sure you can't compare a Ar/Co2 mix cover gas to straight Co2. The Ar/Co2 will leave less spatter, have more pentration and a smoother face.

Any time you have a manual welding process over 3/8" in plate thickness, you need extreamely fast eyes and even quicker hands as your rolling a huge ball of melt. If this was a every day weldment occurance then you would get used to the fast pace that every thing happens at and make a decent weld every time.

Problem is unless thats in a production enviroment, most weldors will never be able to handle that kind of puddle in one pass. Weldment quality would greatly suffer with alot of rejects. Multi-pass welds however would pass inspection every time.

To comment on the joint Tony refferenced, when I was at Coors we would tack weld the 3/4" plate, roll, then tack weld again with 7018 or manual Mig, then I would run a single pass with SAW that used a .125" wire with about a 1/4lb of flux perinch of weld.

SAW (submurged arc welding) is very close to Mig welding, with a very large electrode wire and a granular flux.

T_Bone

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Loren

09-07-2004 18:09:48




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 Am I reading this right? in reply to T_Bone, 09-07-2004 16:30:10  
The mixed gases will give MORE penetration? I've been told exactly the opposite at work, and that's been given as the reason for running CO2 instead. Hmm. This could really stir things up.

Tony, not sure why you told me that except for the "pick the right way to make it a good weld" story. Guess the whyfer's are losing me. Loren



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T_Bone

09-08-2004 04:11:52




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 Re: Am I reading this right? in reply to Loren, 09-07-2004 18:09:48  
Hi Loren,

The below list was made for SS but in theroy can be appiled to all common metals:

Pure Argon with Mig works well on light gauge SS SM as it gives lite penetration and reduces weld splatter. Argon adds arc stability with shallow penetration, lowers weld spatter and removes oxides at the weld surface.

Helium adds high thermal conductivity with-in the arc reducing it's density. Read this as a cheap(free) amperage increase. Increases penetration and flatens the weld bead contour.

As we move to heavier SS metals we can add 1% to 5%, o2 with the Argon that helps with undercutting and adding penetration for Mig welding. Adding more than 5% o2 would cause porosity with-in the weldment.

Qxygen in amounts upto 5% can be added for broading the penetration in the center of the weld bead, controls undercutting and helps improve arc stability.

Co2 can be added but has a spatter problem on most thin gauge metals and defeats my useage. O2 on the other hand enhances the tri-mix.

When Helium is added with Argon, 75%Ar/25%He the weld bead is broader and penetration is improved on SS.

Then we can add Co2 with Argon for a mix of 75%Ar/25%Co2. The Co2 is primarly added to reduce the cost of pure Argon. We can also use pure Co2 for some SS types but weld splatter is a big problem.

Now we get the best of all worlds and end up with a tri-mix of Argon/Helium/Co2. With this mix we get the flatest weld bead profile, good penetration and very little weld splatter on SS.

We also can use a heavy consentrate of Helium and add Ar, Co2 or o2 for Mig welding SS.

What determines the cover gas, is the composistion of the filler wire and what the filler wire mfg spec's.

These cover gasses can also be used for welding other metals.

T_Bone

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TonyD

09-07-2004 18:45:50




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 Re: Am I reading this right? in reply to Loren, 09-07-2004 18:09:48  
Hi Loren. Take it from me, someone who has gone from the bottom to the Top. The reason your shop is running Co2. is COST!!!!! !!!! Yes that is the reason for the story. In my mind, if you claim to be a welder, you have said a mouth full, and look out!! There is more to being a welder than just knowing how to pull the trigger or strike an arc. I cannot begin to tell you how many certified welders I have fired in my career, because they couldn�t do, or didn�t know. I had a certified welder tell me once that polarity was a wives tale, it did not matter what polarity you welded with. I could not get his check fast enough! I have worked all up and down the west coast, the only place I�ve been where the welder�s certification test also included a written test, was LA. When you get to the point in your career that you are running work, you want the most educated people you can find to surround your self with, makes life easier on you.

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Loren

09-07-2004 19:45:58




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 Re: Am I reading this right? in reply to TonyD, 09-07-2004 18:45:50  
"There is more to being a welder than just knowing how to pull the trigger or strike an arc." I hear that! I knew before I started getting paid for it that there was a lot more to it than zzzzz zzzzz zzzt, done. As I work along there is not an increasingly bigger percentage of the job that I have learned, just the opposite. I find more and more aspects of it that I don't know. Dang, should wrote the book the first month out!!! Knew almost all of it then. LOL
Just came across another question. Really don't want to sell the R3S and am wondering now about a phase converter. Good/bad idea? Loren.

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TonyD

09-08-2004 05:44:10




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 Re: Am I reading this right? in reply to Loren, 09-07-2004 19:45:58  
Hi Loren. The phase converter might work. I don�t know anybody who has set one up to run a welder, but right here is the place to ask. There are some people here that really seem to know phase converters. I have one in my shop. Phase-A-Matic, not sure it is what you would want to run a welder. Mine is the type you wire your own electric motor into. It is rated 8-12 hp. We used an old 10 hp motor in the system. According to the factory you are not to exceed � the hp of that motor. 10hp motor in the system = 5 hp piece of equipment. I built a 24-inch chop saw years ago, only motor I had was 7 hp 3-phase. That phase converter worked fine. If I had to do it all over I would buy the type that the motor is already in the system. I�ve seen them on eBay real cheap, brand new.

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