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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Making blades for sickle saw/Heat treating Them

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Hurk

08-16-2004 04:59:12




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Does anyone have experience in making blades. All the new blades I found are 3" wide and I need some 2" wide. I tried a file on the spares I have for different sickle bar....a cat couldn't scatch'em.




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thebigron

08-16-2004 19:39:07




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 Re: Making blades for sickle saw/Heat treating The in reply to Hurk, 08-16-2004 04:59:12  
Try this site: >Link

You>Link might get lucky here.



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Hurk

08-17-2004 05:03:17




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 Re: Making blades for sickle saw/Heat treating The in reply to thebigron, 08-16-2004 19:39:07  
I'll give them a call today thank you for the info. Hurk



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DL

08-17-2004 20:13:56




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 Re: Making blades for sickle saw/Heat treating The in reply to Hurk, 08-17-2004 05:03:17  
If you want to cut the blades you have, you can do so by annealing them first. Annealing simply reverses the heat treating process. To anneal, just heat the steel to bright red, set aside (preferably out of a breeze) and allow to slowly cool. Once cooled, you should be able to shape the steel in manner you choose. To re-harden, re-heat to orange or red heat and rapidly quench... water, salt water or oil are commonly used for quenching. Salt water will probably yield the hardest steel, followed by water, then oil. The problem with getting parts super-hard is that they then become very brittle. If it were me, I think I'd try the oil quench first... if the knife won't hold an edge very well, you can always re-heat and re-quench using water. HTH
Regards, DL

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Hurk

08-18-2004 05:04:23




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 Re: Making blades for sickle saw/Heat treating The in reply to DL, 08-17-2004 20:13:56  
Hi DL, I think your right on. I tried to heat treat (OIL) some steel I made into wearing plate and did the file test and it was not near as hard as old piece. Next time I'll try salt water and maybe more than once. Is there any benifit to do oil quench first then salt bath next or some combanation? Thank You for the help.



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DL

08-19-2004 12:17:37




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 Re: Making blades for sickle saw/Heat treating The in reply to Hurk, 08-18-2004 05:04:23  
Hey Hurk,
No benefit to multiple heat treatments... the next heat simply un-does the hardness previously achieved. I have achieved Rc 60 (nearly as hard as a file) on mild steel by carburizing. If you wish to do this, here's how... You'll need a metal container large enough (with a little room to spare)to hold the part you wish to harden, and a source of carbon. I used some ordinary (barbeque) charcoal that I pulverized with a hammer. Put a layer of powdered charcoal in the bottom of your container (an inch or more), heat your part to bright red... drop into the container and cover with more carbon... again, you'll want an inch or more of carbon covering the steel... let cool while buried in carbon. After part is cool, clean it off and re-heat to bright red, then immediately quench in salt water. Agitate the part for at least the first 30 seconds... the idea is to cool the part as quickly as possible and to keep the air bubbles off of it during the initial cooling (they form an "insulating blanket" and prevent the part from reaching maximum hardness). This method is rather crude, but it works! HTH
Regards, DL

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Hurk

08-21-2004 04:45:12




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 Re: Making blades for sickle saw/Heat treating The in reply to DL, 08-19-2004 12:17:37  
Hello DL, I will follow your instructions on next part I have to make 'cause I can't find new part.
Thank You.



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