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Pipe Fence Help

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JDB

08-12-2004 07:43:04

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Building a pipe fence using 2 3/8 pipe. Questions:

What size/thickness do you guys recommend?
Are splits okay?
Any other help would be appreciated. Thanks.

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JDB

08-12-2004 12:50:13

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to JDB, 08-12-2004 07:43:04

Thanks for all the great info. Some additional help if you will.

I've pre-planned the holes at 3ft. Would you go shorter, maybe 2 1/2 to save a little pipe?

My sections are planned at 10ft. I figured 20ft joints would spare some waste. What do you think?

Also, a friend/rancher told me to leave about 4 inches between the cement and ground. Cows would eventually press the ground down and expose the concrete if you didn't. Your opinions are greatly appreciated. Thanks again.

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txblu

08-13-2004 09:16:15

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to JDB, 08-12-2004 12:50:13

N.Tx Houston Black Clay.

Heavy expansion shrinkage.

1. Fence leans in dry year when ground shrinks and pulls away from concrete. Winter it swells back, but fence is tilted. Summer shrinks again. Fence tilts more..... etc. till it falls over. Deeper the better. Helps reduce maintenance and appearance down the road.

2.Have planted posts in winter pouring crete to ground surface just to have concrete cap (top), that was even with the surface when poured, 6" ABOVE ground in August. Walks right out of the ground.

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08-12-2004 13:16:45

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to JDB, 08-12-2004 12:50:13

Honestly I would put them AT LEAST 36 inch in the ground, I go more where I live because the ground shifts so much. I go 42 usually. As far as the cement, I think you are going the wrong way. I would mound it ABOVE the ground to keep manure etc off the pipe to avoid rot at the ground. Dirt manure etc will acumulate around the pipe and rot it. My neighbor has me sold on doing our pipe fencing this way. We save paint cans. Cut the bottom out of the can and put one on each post when we set the post. Then I let the can bottom even with the ground and fil the can with cement and allow it to set this way. when finished, you have a can around the bottom of your post full of cement. There is fence he built in 60's and no post has rotted at the ground. My corral is done this way and I like it. I am building a entrance at my gate and plan on doing the same there, some say it looks bad, I say it will be there when they aint around to look at it. I've even heard of guys dipping their posts in tar up and slightly above where it will be in ground to make them last. It is all about building something you dont have to fix or re do later IMHO.

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JDB

08-12-2004 13:50:17

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to KX, 08-12-2004 13:16:45

Good ideas. One of your other posts mentioned using 2 7/8 for posts and 2 3/8 for rails. Does this look alot better or a little better than using 2 3/8 everywhere. Is the extra costs of 2 7/8 worth the view?

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08-12-2004 14:11:15

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to JDB, 08-12-2004 13:50:17

Personally I do not think it looks better (but bear in mind, looks mean little to me, I want it to LAST). As long as I know it isn't rusting or flimsy, I can live with it. I don't think you need any bigger than 2 3/8 for fencing posts and top rail and fill it with sucker rod. A cow cant run through that. For buildings and over head entrances etc, 2 7/8 is stronger. 2 7/8 is harder to work with due to weight however. I can handle a 2 3/8 stick (30-32 ft)fairly well myself but a 2 7/8 stick, you almost have to have help. I prefer to work solo. I have built door trusses etc with 2 7/8 solo but again, a day of handling that size drill stem makes for a good nights sleep that evening.

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J.C. IN AZ.

08-12-2004 12:29:27

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to JDB, 08-12-2004 07:43:04

Here in around Wickenburg and Phoenix Az. the horse crowd uses Pipe Fence exclusivly unless the are tieing Panels together for a Roping Arena or Corral and Fence building is a big Item with Contractors doing Pipe Fencing as their only Line of Work. My friend has 7 1/2 acres to be Fenced with 2" posts in concrete and 1 1/2" Top and Bottom Rail all Black Iron Pipe and New with 2'x3' No Climb Fencing installed and the Contract is $20,000.00. Regular Cattle and Horse Fencing uses 2" Black Iron Pipe Posts and up to four 1 1/2" Black iron Pipe Rails. The Contractors use a Notcher to cut a snug fit in the end of the Rail Pipe and Welds where Rail meets Pipe with a Wire Feed Miller Welder for a continous Weld around the Joint. Two coats of Rust-o-leum and in this dry Climate it will last forever except in the seldom found Moist area then other Rust Prevention Methods come into play. Thanks--My $1.00 worth

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08-12-2004 09:22:53

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to JDB, 08-12-2004 07:43:04

Use the thickest pipe you can find, splits are OK, just take the time to weld them and seam them water tight. Make your fence posts and top rail from the 2 3/8 and fill it in with sucker rod or cattle panels. I like sucker rod best but it is all preference. The most important thing to remember when building pipe fence is cut the joints to fit them as tight as you can. Your goal is to make a fence that has every joint welded water tight. A fence that takes on water at a joint won"t be there long, a water tight one that is kept painted will be there forever. Do some practice cutting joints with a chop saw. I see guys that are darn good use a torch to fit joints but I always had much better luck with the chop sw. I have also seen some hack fence that didn"t last long. Take your time and fit it well and do it only once in your life. Steel is too high to just throw it in the ground and let it rot. Good Luck.

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Whats a pipe fence?

08-12-2004 08:51:15

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to JDB, 08-12-2004 07:43:04

Fill me in.

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08-12-2004 09:23:31

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to Whats a pipe fence?, 08-12-2004 08:51:15

A fence built from steel pipe.

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txblu

08-12-2004 09:37:42

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to KX, 08-12-2004 09:23:31

...and sucker rod. In Texas, it comes (used) from oil/gas well drilling operations. Is (was) a real cheap way to get a real heavy duty corral/fence.

Mark

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08-12-2004 10:16:11

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to txblu, 08-12-2004 09:37:42

Actually it seems most around N TX nowadays are being built all pipe. Appear to be using 2 7/8 for the post and 2 3/8 for the rails.

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j-tex

08-12-2004 11:56:15

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to BB, 08-12-2004 10:16:11

pipe is the only way to go for pens and fences
in this neck of the woods.
like txblu said 2-7/8 for posts and 2-3/8 for rails

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08-12-2004 11:34:06

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to BB, 08-12-2004 10:16:11

I seen that too BB but most of that is like sched 40 2 3/8 filler and it isn't near as strong or near as long lasting as 3/4 sucker rod. I have built fence for people where they supply the pipe using sched 40 2 7/8 and 2 3/8 but it isn't near as strong as drill stem and sucker rod. Drill stem pipe is just plain better, harder steel. If you can get the thick walled drill stem....so much the better.

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txblu

08-12-2004 11:50:01

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to KX, 08-12-2004 11:34:06

I built 2 carport type equipment covers using what you mentioned; 2 7/8 thick walled drill stem. Both are 22x24. One is 8' off the ground and the other 12'. Only 4 vertical posts on each, set into 12" x 3' concrete holes.

Amazing how sturdy they are with minimal diagonal bracing.

Mark

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m nelson

08-12-2004 10:28:16

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to BB, 08-12-2004 10:16:11

I'd like to expand on the pipe fence idea. Does anybody have plans, photographs and approximate costs of completed projects? I'm considereing installing approximately 4000 lineal feet of 8' high fencing to keep the deer from eating recently planted trees.

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kyhayman

08-14-2004 21:51:30

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to m nelson, 08-12-2004 10:28:16

Just running rough numbers I cant see any fence running less than $1 a running foot for materials, plus the labor; pipe or other. Naturally some would run a lot more (like plank at $4 a running foot plus labor).

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thurlow

08-12-2004 15:01:01

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to m nelson, 08-12-2004 10:28:16

There have been several corrals built locally using salvaged/used highway guard rails; haven't priced it lately, so have no idea of current cost. 15 or 20 years ago it could be had quite reasonably..... .

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txblu

08-12-2004 11:51:05

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to m nelson, 08-12-2004 10:28:16

Grab your wallet!

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j-tex

08-12-2004 12:02:05

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to txblu, 08-12-2004 11:51:05

with both hands, pipe yard around here was selling precut 8ft 2-7/8 posts for around $8.00 ea
30-32ft joints of 2-3/8 were running about .75 per ft these prices are from before steel went through the roof have not checked any prices lately

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08-12-2004 11:41:15

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to m nelson, 08-12-2004 10:28:16

A good pipe fence is nice anywhere but those must be some important trees. You are talking about a small fortune just in steel and material, and a lot of labor. I haven't priced drill stem lately, I am afraid to.

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TheRealRon

08-12-2004 10:51:12

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Re: Pipe Fence Help in reply to m nelson, 08-12-2004 10:28:16

No need. Use deer net fence, any ag supply should have it. Far cheaper, far less work to put up, just as effective.

Or, if trees are your only concern, one of the lumber companies, Boise-Cascade maybe, has a product that is very effective in keeping deer from munching trees. Works even after rain. Your ag dealer or feed store will have it.

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