OT WELL QUESTION----electrical

B) You could run a new 4 wire to the fuse box on the well from your main box. I don't know if a single strand for the neutral would be legal, easy yes, legal probably not

C) you could use a regular 120 line (hot, neutral, ground) ran off of a relay off of the well. You may be able to use the pressure switch if it has enough contacts, I can't remember if there's more than two, or were the others normally closed. Somebody else could help.

D) (easiest) Find a 220V light bulb and label the socket 220V. If somebody did put a 120 bulb in it it probably would just cook in an instant. Just be careful to make sure nobody decides to splice into it. 220, not 120. Probably should also put some elect tape over the neutral wire ends so somebody knows its not a neutral anylonger.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong or not up to code.

The "neutral" is an insulated current carrying conductor speeding 1/2 it"s time positive compared to the negative "live line" and 1/2 of the time negative to the positive "live line. This is for a 120V circuit.

The neutral bond to "ground" potential is for safety so only 1/2 of the 120V circuit has potential to give a shock to the grounded person should a fault occur.

The bond to ground also prevents the whole secondary side of the service transformer from floating from hundreds to thousands of volts above earth potential.

A diode only conducts AC current in one direction and blocks DC current from flowing in one direction.

The difference between neutral and ground voltage "is voltage drop on a current carrying conductor". And the fact that the ground connection to earth was high resistance at best.

An unbalanced 120/240, 120/208, 347/600 system will load the neutral and raise the ground protection conductor to above true ground voltage. Huge phantom type problems around electronics and live stock.

You move or something?

T_Bone

Thats probably more than you wanted to tell here. With Ron posting as you the past couple days your ISP number was wrong for your usual posting so I was currious if it was really you or Ron playing games again.

In any event your place sounds great for all the toys, I mean working equipment....lol

T_Bone

TheRealRon

Link

Here is where you posted as Ron

Link
Link

Here is where you Stated you were the old Ron and are now posting as TheRealRon

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All four posts are from the same ISP address of the old Ron

Now who's the Liar...look in the mirror

T_Bone

Well, I look at it this way. If I were your renter I'd tell you where to get off. There are appliances (water heaters, diswashers, clothes washers, and ice makers, that easily come to mind) that can be damaged, under certain conditions, by operating with no water supply.

But far more important is the fact the something like 90% of all house fires are put out by the people living in them. They do so primarily with WATER. If they shutoff their pump, then go out and come back and forget to turn it back on and then have a fire they can't fight... well let's say that their attorney is going to be spending a lot of your money.

TheRealRon

Of course the whole assumption is that the renters are smart enough to interpt this properly. My experience is that most people are not attune enough to things such as this to know what it means. Of course its a good idea, costs little and could be helpful to the landlord when the renter calls about no water pressure, he can ask if the light is on. Gives him a heads up to what is going on.

I used to live in a rented cottage with a well. There was no light on the pump but I could, thru the water pipes, hear the hum of the pump which was outside 30 ft from the house. It is nice to know when its running and when its not.

Charles

Things involving rewiring, circuit breakers, adding switches in to existing lines etc, I have done by a licensed electrician. When you do the work, you assume the liability from anything occuring as a result of your work. For me, assuming that liability is not worth the few bucks I save. And if it's done wrong, you'll still have to call an electrician.

Simple electrical work is fine to do yourself, but as you can see, this isn't so simple. If something goes wrong and a tenant gets hurt, the first question from the tenants lawyer will be "Are you a licensed electrician?" When you say "no", you're sunk.

Having it done by an electrician is simply buying yourself some insurance. Coach

A well pump that runs on 220 would have three wires to it. 2 hot ones (110 each) and one ground.

So now tell me where is this NETURAL wire at ????? ????
Remember the ground is NOT and can NOT be used as a netural.

BK

I just answered another post in this topic where I explained in more detail the difference between neutral and ground..

A ground and a netural hook to the same spot in the elec box but the wires are not the same.

A ground is a fault protector and never sees and elec till their is a problem and then only for a split second till it shorts out and blows the breaker. The wire has no coating.

A netural on the other hand sees elec the entire time the light is on. Elec flows out the hot wire to the bulb and then back to the netural plug in the fuse box. Since this wire will see elec the whole time the light is on it has a coating to protect the elec running inside.

So my question still stands. A 220 well pump will have 2 coated wires (hot) and 1 uncoated wire. (ground) Which one do you use as a coated netural ?????

220 volt using romex as in 12-2 with gr.You mark the white wire red with paint or mabe you can use marking tape.

120 volt,The nuteral,again using 12-2 w/grd. would be the white coated wire.

The nuteral wire carries the unbalanced load. The grd.wire takes care of voltage spikes and electrical faults. The grd. wires and nutural wires are bonded to the nutural bar in the main breaker panel and that in turn is bonded to the frame of the box.

steve

You are absolutly right. If you want a light in your well circuit,using romex, you would have to run a 12-3 w/grd. I am using 12-3 as an example. You would have to size the wire for the load.

steve