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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

roosa master pump

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steve turner

07-14-2004 05:17:23




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could anyone tell me the trick to removing the hydraulic head. i have the three bolts out but still seems tight. what else needs to come out first if any, thanks




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Gary Mckenzie

07-14-2004 10:27:18




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 Re: roosa master pump in reply to steve turner, 07-14-2004 05:17:23  
Have you checked to see if you are getting fuel out to the injectors? I recently had the same problem with a rebuilt pump, the pump shop told me that fuel gets into that area of the pump from internal leakage and that if it is in excellent condition it will take a while for it to fill but will not affect operation. I bled the injector lines and it fired right up and took about 30 minutes for fuel to show up in the window. That was about 1,500 hrs ago and it is running fine. Just something to think about before you tear it down.

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msb

07-14-2004 12:53:10




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 Re: Re: roosa master pump in reply to Gary Mckenzie, 07-14-2004 10:27:18  
That internal leakage is designed into the pump.It serves two purposes.First it is a way for air to be purged from the pump and the second is to lubricate and cool the pump with fuel.It is not unusual for it to take several minutes of running before the fuel will show up at the return fitting.



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steve turner

07-14-2004 08:59:07




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 Re: roosa master pump in reply to steve turner, 07-14-2004 05:17:23  
yes it does have advance on bottom. it is a pump from international 504. model db pump. the bolt you talk of with the head cut off threads into the discharge port? so, three bolts-metering valve-remove advance assy- twist and pull and tap if needed. maybe you can shed some light on why i am removing. tractor has been sitting for a long time and when i fueled it up i get fuel all the way up to the inlet on pump, but when trying to bleed air from pump i get very little from timing window and none from return line. pump is turning ok and inlet screen is clear. thanks

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msb

07-14-2004 09:23:15




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 Re: Re: roosa master pump in reply to steve turner, 07-14-2004 08:59:07  
Yes ,screw the cut off SAE bolt into a discharge port.Finger tight only.Sometimes it takes a long time to full charge the pump cavity.First there is a primer spring in the transfer pressure regulator that aids in priming by bypassing the regulator.It is possible the pressure regulator piston is sticking.Next there is a "vent " wire inside the pump head that few people even know about.It is s soft iron wire about the size of a pencil lead.It serves two purposes.First is to break up any air bubbles to help expel and air in the system including during the priming process and the second is to doccument the presence of water in the fuel.Since it is soft iron,it rusts quite easily.And when it rusts,the rust interferes with the wire's function. I would try removing the return fitting inn the pump and bleed with the fitting removed.If you are getting some fuel at the timing window then sounds like you are at least somewhat successful.The pump doesn't have to be completely full before the engine should start anyway.Gotta close now.The cable guy is here.see ya later,bob

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msb`www.mudsockbob

07-14-2004 08:18:22




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 Re: roosa master pump in reply to steve turner, 07-14-2004 05:17:23  
Does your pump haave a timing advance on it?If so there is a splined bolt that has to come out.If the third bolt you removed took a 12 point wrench then you do have a timing or speed advance pump of some sort.What model tractor?I assume you have removed the metering valve inside the pump at the top of the govenor linkage.I always used a 3/8" SAE bolt (it will fit the threaded hole)with the head cut off and had a short piece of pipe I used on the cut off bolt.Gently twist the pump head as you pull on the pump head.On really tight ones,I will tap the side of the housing with a hammer.Its only the o-ring that is holding it.----I used to make my living rebuilding those things.

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