Homelite Saw Blade attachment

If the saplings are less than about three-quarters of an inch in diameter, you can cut them with a "brushcutter" blade rather than a sawblade. This is a blade with three knife-shaped teeth, and it's a little safer to use than a saw blade.

Personally, I try to cut down saplings with the brush hog on my tractor, because it tends to rip the trees out by the roots so that they don't come back.

Here's a link to info on Stihl brushcutters. I have the FS85, which has been an excellent cutter.

• Stihl Brushcutters

I appreciate the comments! I hired a tractor to do as you do, and it left the trees in stick form all over my pasture. Some are 5 " high up to 6'. My problem is finding something to cut at ground level without ruining my pasture grass. Any ideas?

You need a pretty 'heavy duty' brushcutter to really handle stuff like this. The homelite from
Wal-Mart likely isn't it going to cut it. (pun?)

Even with a good one, it's hard work.

For small stuff, the hand-guided field mower will work.

But if your saplings have any size to them I'd rent a small 'real' tractor with a 'bush hog' mower... say 3 ft or better.

Either that or just hire it done.

For the $60/hour it costs (around here) you can get somebody with the right equipment to come and do it.. probably in a couple hours.

bb

The saplings are anywhere from 1/2" to 3" wide at the base. The problem is with a brush cutter, it doesn't go down to ground level. The horses will be lame stepping on these sharp little poles sticking up. I did hire it done, and it left 5" sticks all over my pasture.... Any ideas what else might take them to ground level without plowing? I need to save the grass for pasture. Thanks for replying!

LJ

How to get rid of saplings of the size you've got... down at ground level without tearing up the ground... and in a hurry. Tall order.

Saplings as big as you've got won't like a brushcutter, even a big professional model will be a fight.

What you really need is a tractor with 'brush rake'.. and that would tear things up big time.

All I can think of is (work) using a very sharp mattock, pulaski, etc to try and cut/root them out at ground level.

Keep it 'axe' sharp and it might go pretty quickly with just a swing or two per sapling.

bb

The safest and the best is a brush mower. It has 2 large wheels like a bicycle does in the back with a blade in front with a small wheel for height of cut. Easy too use and handle even for a small person and self propelled. You can rent them for about $50 a day and two people can unload it if not on a trailer. Rent during the week days is usually cheaper. Very little kick back if at all and they will cut a 2" sapling. The larger machines are easyer to handle as when you hit a larger stock the machine doesn't move as much. If you buy one it cost about $800 new.

Hope this helps!

T_Bone

Great information! But will it cut to ground level and not leave any sticks poking out of the ground? That's my problem. I need to save the grass but lose the trees. It's tough. I can only hand cut for about 1 1/2 hours and I'm exhausted. My progress is slow and I only have a week left to get it done. Would the brush mower cut to ground level?

The better of the two evils is to wait till the grass goes to seed then tractor disc the sapling out and you would have grass next year. Take a hand seed spreader out early next spring and seed to get a good stand.

The only other thing I can think of is pull the sapling out with a pick-up with a trailer hitch. Takes two people, one driver and one puller and a 5/16" or heavier chain about 14ft long. Hook one end of chain to the hitch, Back real close to sapling, throw a loop around the base of the sapling with the chain, throw another loop on "top" of the first loop of chain, then the ground person holds onto the other end of the chain tight while the driver pulls the sapling out. The driver has to goose it a tad as it's the sudden jerk that pulls them out. If the chain slips more than a couple foot let go as it didn't "grab" onto the sapling. I never had the chain slip but a couple times and it usually rides up on the stock rather than the chain coming off. You just have to try too see how it works. Over thirty years I can't tell you how many fence posts and small trees I've pulled this way. I was thinking it would save your grass alot better but time consuming. I've also used this method to pull steel posts poured with concrete. If you don't put the bummer right tight against the steel post it will ding the tailgate of the pick-up when you pull them out, if tight it pulls them straight up. It requires no diging around the base of the post or sapling.

Here in Arizona I clear sage brush with a yard drag. The ground is very dry here. The drag is two small railroad rails with pipe welded in between then to keep them level. Then another heavy rail lays accross the top of the drag to add weight. When you drag the land you hit the sage brush on about 3ft of one corner of the drag that tears the sage brush out roots and all. Takes about 8 hrs to clean and level 3 acres with the drag. The drag digs in about 6" into the ground and requires a 4x4 for a tow rig on virgin ground.

Unless there's someone with a really great tool or idea, I don't see you saving your grass with taking the roots out this year.

T_Bone