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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

OT: Pressure Tank ...

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Iowadave

04-26-2004 11:28:16




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Just beginning a large house renovation/addition. Have a couple of questions: We're currently on a well that we've never had problems with (Not enough to hook up to rural water running acrossed a corner of the property). It's one drawback is pretty lame pressure, at least as far as showers are concerned. The well is 65' deep and feeds a system in the basement consisting of a particulate filter (Change the element every month or two), pressure tank, and softener. Any way to put a fresh or higher nitrogen charge on the pressure tank or supplement the pressure it creates with a pump or compressor? The other question is our whole house has been electric-water heater, furnace, etc. With a rural electic rate the bills have always been reasonable and we've enjoyed not caring if LP goes up or down. With the renovation we're interested in putting in a gas fireplace and would prefer a gas cooktop in the kitchen to electric. What size tank would I need for this application? Are LP tanks owned or leased? What kind of work/cost is involved in plumbing the lines?

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Ray,IN

04-26-2004 20:17:18




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 Re: OT: Pressure Tank ... in reply to Iowadave, 04-26-2004 11:28:16  
Booster pumps are made to perform just what you want, boost the house water pressure. In your situation I'd follow the helpful suggestions already offered. Then if the pressure is still too low consider installing a booster pump after the water exits the storage tank. It operates by a pressure demand switch.



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Jim E

04-26-2004 18:25:17




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 Re: OT: Pressure Tank ... in reply to Iowadave, 04-26-2004 11:28:16  
Do you have iron or steel water pipes? I've recently replaced my old steel ones which had internal rust from 3/4 down to 1/8 in places.

Check with your local Co-op for propane. We will be changing companies due to price gouging.



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Dale in WV

04-26-2004 17:47:12




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 Re: OT: Pressure Tank ... in reply to Iowadave, 04-26-2004 11:28:16  
Dave, good luck on the water issue. As for my system, the flow rate (recharging the well?) is less than 5 gallons per minute, which at the 35psi rate and the current submersible system, is about what it pumps. Fortunately, my area of eastern WV is overly blessed with limestone deposits and I can get water at only 280 feet....



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john in la

04-26-2004 14:44:33




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 Re: OT: Pressure Tank ... in reply to Iowadave, 04-26-2004 11:28:16  
While others have told you how to reset the pressure of you pump the question I would have is how far is your well; pump; and tank from your house and what size water pipe do you have running from well to house. You say it is your showers that are giving you problems. Since showers use a lot of water they may be running out of water. If you just turn up the pressure to compensate it will cause your sink faucets to splash water every where when turned on due to the high pressure.
Just something to think about.

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Ray

04-26-2004 13:32:19




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 Re: OT: Pressure Tank ... in reply to Iowadave, 04-26-2004 11:28:16  
Our well is 90 ft deep and feeds a basement
system like yours.We set the pressure switch up
to higher pressure,around 70 pounds to keep good
pressure at both bathrooms.



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Ron from IL

04-26-2004 13:29:26




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 Re: OT: Pressure Tank ... in reply to Iowadave, 04-26-2004 11:28:16  
Dave,

If it's just a question of pressure, you should have a pressure cutin/cut out switch which you can adjust to nearly whatever you want. What does your pressure gauge (if you have one) read when the pump shuts of on the upper limit?

Many pumps (both submersible and shallow well) use a Square D pressure switch. If you take the cover off, you'll see two bolt-like things sticking up. One controls the upper limit cut out (the bigger one, I think) and the smaller the total span (which takes in the lower shutoff). I think there are directions inside the cover for adjusting. Anyway, unless there are leaks in your system, you should be able to get all the pressure you require. Check it out. I reset mine to shut off at 75 psi and start at around 35 psi.

Ron

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Charles (in GA)

04-26-2004 13:22:06




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 Re: OT: Pressure Tank ... in reply to Iowadave, 04-26-2004 11:28:16  
If you have a more than capable pump, well pressure is determined by the pressure switch settings. here in Georgia, BORED wells (26 to 30 inch hole in the ground, 40 to 60 ft deep) are serviced by a jet pump on top of the well and usually a 20/40 pressure switch. ie. When the pressure gets down to 20 the pump kicks in, and when it reaches 40 psi it shuts off. The nitrogen/air charge on a bladder type tank must be set properly depending on the pressure your pump shuts off at. Since it is also possible to have 30/50 and 40/60 systems, you need to know what you have and that it is working properly.

In short, you cannot change the pressure of your system by changing the pressure in the tank, it is merely an accumulator to store the water. The larger the tank, the less often the pump runs, but it runs longer, which is good, starting and stopping is hard on a pump and motor, you want it to happen as infrequently as possible. The pressure is usually set at about 5 psi less than your pump shutoff pressure.

The larger a tank, the more "drawdown" it will have. Drawdown is the number of gallons you can get out of a tank from the peak pressure the pump shuts off at to the point where the pump starts up at the low pressure point.

Here is a real good site to find out info about your well.

Link

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PKurilecz

04-26-2004 12:29:21




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 Re: OT: Pressure Tank ... in reply to Iowadave, 04-26-2004 11:28:16  
> It's one drawback is pretty lame pressure

A lot will depend upon the max discharge pressure of the well pump and the well capacity. If it is a submersible pump, you might try replacing it with a higher head pump.

>Are LP tanks owned or leased?

Both.

>What kind of work/cost is involved in plumbing the lines?

It is similar to ordinary plumbing. Check with your local propane supplier.

Hope this helps.

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