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Paint booth

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CNKS

04-22-2004 14:33:01




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I am tired of paint overspray on everything and am going to build a permanent cross-draft 16x12x8 (lwh) paint booth inside my 30x30 work area for painting tractors. I am not interested in making a temporary one out of plastic sheeting. Although as an individual I don't have to meet OSHA, etc, requirements, I want to follow OSHA requirements for air flow, assuming that if I do, the booth will evacuate properly and not dump overspray over everything. I plan on purchasing explosion-proof fans. The spec I am trying to meet is 100 ft/min airflow per sq ft of cross sectional area. i.e. the area of the air intake. This will let me determine the size and number (hopefully one, these things are expensive) exhaust fans I will need. For the 12 x 8 cross sectional area of the proposed booth, how large should the filtered intake be? I can then multiply the cross sectional area by 100 ft/min and get the cfm needed to exvacuate the booth. If it's too big, the cost becomes prohibitive, too small will (I think) cause turbulence inside the booth. Any ideas are appreciated.

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poor tom

04-23-2004 19:38:42




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 Re: Paint booth in reply to CNKS, 04-22-2004 14:33:01  
My spray booth is an 8'x12' room. At one end a large 8"x16" exhaust duct carries the fumes outdoors. A 3'x4'filter bank catches the overspray. A belt-drive furnace blower inside a sealed plenum on the end of the exhaust duct draws out the air. The blower motor is NOT mounted in the sealed plenum! It is mounted on top and the belt runs through a slot in the plenum to the blower pulley. A piece of leather acts as a flap/filler over this slot. The motor and plenum is protected from the weather by an sloping shed roof on the back of the building. I open a window at the other end of the spray room for intake air. The window screen is all the filtration I need. I spray furniture and never use lacquer, just paints, varnishes, stains, some shellac. Works great! A portable oil-filled rad is placed in the window during winter. This keeps this room above 55, warmer for short jobs. I know this isn't the right way. When I can afford a better fan and lights I'll upgrade, but I'd never buy a ready-to-go system. Way overpriced and not what I really want. When I do it myself I get exactly what I want. Next booth will be super safe and efficient. I do have 4 big halon sprinklers overhead. Brother-in-law works in fire prevention. Sorry I don't fix-up tractors. You guys have the best information about compressors and other shop-related issues.

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Rod (NH)

04-22-2004 19:29:19




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 Re: Paint booth in reply to CNKS, 04-22-2004 14:33:01  
Hi CNKS,

I think you should review that 100 fpm per sqft of intake area. The standard design criteria for such booths is that a minimum flow velocity of 100 fpm shall be obtained over the entire booth cross sectional area...not the cross sectional of any intake opening you may provide. That is to say you would need to provide 100x12x8 = 9,600 cfm of fan flow as a minimum. This is assuming you orient the airflow lengthwise along the booth. The difficulty, of course, comes in obtaining relatively uniform airflow over the booth cross section (the 96 sq ft in the above case). For this reason you may find that most commercial booths have a relatively large intake area relative to the booth cross sectional area. In fact the ACGIH (American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists, an authority on industrial ventilation design of all sorts) recommends that the filter area be at least 75% of the gross booth cross sectional area. There are also usually some baffle requirements to further assure uniform flow across the booth cross section.

To further complicate the matter, the 9,600 cfm fan flow must take into account all frictional resistance and other losses between the inlet to the booth and the free outlet from any fan discharge ductwork. This is in order to obtain the final flow of 9,600 cfm when the fan operates in the system. Just because a fan has a rating of 9,600 cfm at some static pressure (e.g. 1/2 inch water gage) doesn't mean the fan will actually deliver that amount. It can be significantly less than the rating if the total system resistance is greater than the rating point.

You may find the whole thing becomes prohibitively expensive for the occasional user, if done to established criteria. The explosion proof requirements for the electrics are usually a big cost adder. Don't forget a liberal amount of lighting inside the booth, also explosion proof.

Like you, I have routinely in the past reviewed standard design practice and improvised where I thought it reasonable to take risks, knowing full well that I was not (and didn't need to be) in full compliance with the "regulations". My posts on the paint and body work board relative to my "not fully compliant" breathing air system for iso-containing paints is a case in point. I have reduced the personal risks to a level that has been acceptable to me and completely workable for me over a period of many years in that regard. I have also messed a little bit with makeshift spraybooths and after doing a couple of cars in my garage a long time ago decided against it as a reasonable way to proceed. I simply wasn't comfortable with the perceived level of personal safety I was getting at a price I could afford to pay for basically a hobby effort. I therefore do all my painting in the summertime outside, even with the fresh air breathing equipment (another subject completely). This always creates a problem with scheduling around the weather but I only do work for myself and simply work around it.

You will find many who cobble together booths using window fans and such winding up with relatively low flow results. That will generally contain and direct any overspray from getting on equipment outside the booth but really is not adequate from a full safety standpoint or from a standpoint of keeping overspray off whatever in-booth lighting system you may have. The uniform 100 fpm minimum flow velocity over the full booth cs area and the need for explosion proof electrical equipment are the key factors that work against you, cost-wise for a reasonably safe installation. 100 fpm is not a lot; as I recall, it is barely perceptable unless the air is hotter or colder than ambient.

Professional automotive downdraft booths, I believe, are up in the $30K-$50K area. Cross-flow booths would be less expensive but still a great burden for a part-timer who is not making his living at it. Can you put together a home-made system for personal use that is reasonably safe and workable at less cost than a commercial unit with full code compliance? Sure. But, depending on your acceptable level of risk taking, it will not be cheap by any means.

I hate to be so negative but I have been where you are in the past, considered the options, costs and risks, and decided against it. I know from your posts on the other board that you take personal safety issues seriously so I am sure you will gather many opinions, evaluate acceptable standards and risks and make an informed judgment for your own use. If you don't already have reference to it, OSHA 29CFR1910.107 provides some food for thought in this area.

third party imageRod

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CNKS

04-22-2004 20:36:31




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 Re: Re: Paint booth in reply to Rod (NH), 04-22-2004 19:29:19  
Rod -- Thanks for the reply. I have done substantial reading the last couple of days on this subject, and agree with what you say. As to cross sectional area, what you said was what I based my calculations on originally, and 9600 cfm is the correct figure. However, somewhere in my reading I got the idea that if I could use a filtered area somewhat smaller than the actual booth cross section, and perhaps get by with less fans. However, that doesn't appear to be true. But, perhaps the 50 cfm suggested in another post is adequate, I don't know. I am also aware of the turbulence or uneven air flow that may result. The cheapest true explosion proof spray booth fan I have found so far is $378, for 3110 cfm, I would need 3 of them or $1134 plus shipping. As to the lights, they could be installed on the outside of the booth, with glass or plexiglass on the inside which should take care of the sparks. My conclusions may ultimately be the same as yours: I can't afford it. However, painting outside is next to impossible. I live in Garden City, KS. I believe Dodge City, 50 miles to the east, is the windiest spot in the US, with an AVERAGE wind speed of about 12 mph, that is a 24 hour average. Wind speed is seldom less that 5 mph, most days at least 10, many days 30. Painting outside is not as option, as slow as I am. I am looking for a way to avoid covering everything in my shop with paint dust, in addition to having to evacuate the building after each coat, and reheat it without blowing it up in the winter. Perhaps if I keep looking, I will find a compromise somewhere.

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Rod (NH)

04-22-2004 21:55:08




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 Re: Re: Re: Paint booth in reply to CNKS, 04-22-2004 20:36:31  
Yeah, a bummer for sure. When I did my makeshift arrangement years ago I used two 24" window fans in a garage door. Certainly not explosion proof! I worried about that, especially after I observed all the paint overspray accumulated on the visible open windings :o). Horrors. I had no idea as to the actual air flow rate. I am sure it was nowhere near an average of 100fpm over the CS area (about 8'x10'). It did remove the overspray fairly well though - I was spraying a VW beetle at the time. I had a single 24"x24" furnace filter in an opposing window for make-up air. It worked but I just didn't feel comfortable with it from a safety standpoint. Can you get by with less than the 100fpm? Probably, but that's the accepted standard.

One other thing I thought of when typing this up is make-up air to the space. A professional booth would take air directly from the outside through a heated/cooled make-up air system - $$$. Make-up directly to the booth is appropriate because of the large air volumes involved. Taking the make-up from the space is OK if the volume rate is small relative to the space volume but may become a problem for small spaces. If you say your enclosed space that the booth is in is 30x30x10 ft high, that's 9000 cubic feet. Exhausting anything on the order of 9000 cfm is a huge amount relative to the space volume. That's one air change every minute! In the winter time your heating system would never keep up with it and you will soon be having cold outside air entering your painting area while you are still painting. You also would have to leave a large door or several windows open (roughly the same CS area as your booth in order not to restrict your airflow. I am not trying to rain on your parade here. Just throwing out some numbers for your consideration before you spend a lot of money. In the end you may be better off doing it the way you are doing it. Cover stuff with tarps or plastic to keep the overspray off. 30x30 is not that big a space, I am surprised that you are able to see in there with all the overspray. Maybe that HVLP is a lot better than I thought in that regard :o)?

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CNKS

04-23-2004 06:42:34




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Paint booth in reply to Rod (NH), 04-22-2004 21:55:08  
My work area is 30x30 with a peaked roof and no ceiling. Thus it is never clean. Dust on my ceiling fans, rafters, everywhere. As far as HVLP, I used a conventional gun for awhile in my garage at another location for a while. HVLP has less overspray, but there is still a LOT. I have tried convering most stuff, but it's still a mess. I really hadn't thought about the makeup air. Most of my jobs are relatively short, probably less than 10 minutes. Then I have to open the doors, evacuate the building, and in the winter reheat. Actually the biggest problem is not the tractor chassis itself. That is usually done over a 2 day period and can be cleaned up afterward. I could probably even do that outside on one of our rare calm days, if I could easily move it in and out -- But it is in non-running condition when I paint. It is all the small parts that I paint separately that is the problem. There is nothing left on the tractor but a big hunk of cast iron. For the small parts, even using a touchup gun, only a small percentage of the paint hits the target, actually making the cloud of mist worse than when I'm painting the chassis. I could get by with a much smaller area if that is all I use the booth for, and after reading what you and T_Bone said, I may have to do that.

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Rod (NH)

04-23-2004 09:05:09




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Paint booth in reply to CNKS, 04-23-2004 06:42:34  
Your area is not that much unlike mine. I have very little space. Enough room for one auto bay and the rest is taken up with "stuff" like saws, planer, etc. I keep the machinery on casters so I can move it into the open space for use as required. The only open space is the auto bay :(. When I did painting inside, I stapled poly sheet temporarily to the overhead joists to keep dust from above from getting on the paint. A pain to be sure but I didn't do it often.

When I work on my tractor, it may be disabled for lengthy periods (so much to do, so little time) and I cannot afford to tie up my only auto bay (also work space) for long periods. My fix for that situation has been to put my tractor on a low flatbed trailer and keep it on the trailer in the bay. That way, if I need the space for some more urgent work, I simply drag the trailer with the tractor on it out, do my thing and then put the trailer back in. That will be my plan if I ever get around to painting the tractor main chassis. Disassemble on trailer, pull outside to paint and then push back in to assemble.

If the smaller individual parts are your biggest problem, a downsized plan of action could be the most appropriate for you. Smaller, openfaced spray booths (not necessarily walk-in) could be a perfect solution. They are used routinely in industry and work well. They could be sized for one of the 3000+ cfm fans you mention. That would give you about 20 sqft of open face area to work with. For smaller areas like this, the recommended face velocity increases to 150 fpm from the 100 for larger cross sections. That would equate to something like 5 ft wide by 4 ft high. It should be enough for most individual tractor parts, including hoods and fenders.

I have the 1977 ACGIH Industrial Ventilation Handbook (retained when I retired from my employer :o)). It has some excellent basic ventilation design standards for paint spray booths. It has been quite a while and I did not keep your email address. Send it to me if you want and I can email a few pages in pdf format that cover small, medium and full size cross draft spray booths. The baffling shown therein is important for airflow distribution across the open face. It might give you some more food for thought. In fact, If I only had more room, I would consider putting something like that together myself. I have a blast cabinet on order now and am currently wrestling with what stuff I will have to move out of my work area to make room for it!

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George

04-22-2004 17:38:37




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 Re: Paint booth in reply to CNKS, 04-22-2004 14:33:01  
Two comments:
1) I think 100 FPM is too fast. Somewhere I read that a cross flow booth should be around 50 FPM and that is what I designed my booth for. I have no problems with fume buildup. I think too fast of airflow will create turbulence around the object being painted (especially if the object being painted starts to fill up the cross section of the booth which increases relative airspeed) and cause uneven paint coverage.

2)My booth's inside width dimension is 11 foot. Wish I would have went a couple feet wider. Twelve foot is good for tractors, but a little close for vehicles -- once you have some sort of painting setup, you will find all sorts of stuff to paint that might be larger than a tractor.

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CNKS

04-22-2004 18:07:07




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 Re: Re: Paint booth in reply to George, 04-22-2004 17:38:37  
Every building is too small. The area I can set aside is about as big as I can make it and still be able to move stuff around. The 100 fpm is OSHA's spec, like many government requirements it could be overblown. Perhaps I could spend a little more and get a multispeed fan, as I have no percetption of what it takes -- thus my questions. My main objective is to get the overspray and fumes out in a reasonable time, and not have them fall back on the surface. And also not blow myself up. Thanks for your reply.

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Mark

04-22-2004 16:51:40




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 Re: Paint booth in reply to CNKS, 04-22-2004 14:33:01  
I use an explosion proof fan purchased from an agricultural building supplier. It is designed to vent manure fumes away from a building. May not be Osha certified for what I'm using it for (painting also)but it is explosion proof.I have a similar setup that you are contemplating.One bay(12x30) of my shop is used for painting. The fan is 18" and I have it hooked to a rheostat so I can vary airflow.I built a frame that sits under the overhead door that holds 3 furnace filters,when painting,I put the filter frame under the door,let the door down on it,set the fan,wet the floor and paint.The fan and switches were about $300.

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CNKS

04-22-2004 18:13:30




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 Re: Re: Paint booth in reply to Mark, 04-22-2004 16:51:40  
I kind of like your idea with the filters, as I had not decided where to put them. I also wondered if furnace filters might be adequate, as IMO, tractors do not have to be as perfect as cars, and with any setup I build, it is not going to be completely dust free. Do you happen to know what CFM your fan is? Cheapest fan I have seen so far was about $375, and they go up from there.



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T_Bone

04-22-2004 15:44:43




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 Re: Paint booth in reply to CNKS, 04-22-2004 14:33:01  
Hi CNKS,

a 30 x 30 building for painting a couple tractors???

What your asking for is for someone to design your system and is way beyond the scope of this forum.

Why?
Any exhaust system for hazardous, flamable materials takes several code books to correctly design for a SAFE working enviroment.

About the best way to even come close to what your wanting without several hours of running numbers is too look at commerical built units.

T_Bone

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CNKS

04-22-2004 18:00:23




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 Re: Re: Paint booth in reply to T_Bone, 04-22-2004 15:44:43  
I have a 30x60 building with 30x30 to work in and 30x30 for storage. I have 5 tractors, have painted two of them, will probably eventually buy more. I'm not asking anyone to design the booth, I just need to know the size of the inlet vs the size of fan I need to use. I'm tired of making the world's biggest mess. As far as safety, it's bound to be safer than the exposed lights and unsafe fans I'm currently using to evacuate the building. I am still looking at commercial booths, but I consider the price to be prohibitive. As far as beyond the scope of the forum, maybe, but there are many off topic subjects on this forum. The general knowledge of several people on this forum, particularly yours, far surpasses mine, as I have been reading this forum since it's inception.

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T_Bone

04-23-2004 05:51:44




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 Re: Re: Re: Paint booth in reply to CNKS, 04-22-2004 18:00:23  
Hi CNKS,

A paint booth/room is nothing more than a large plenum box exhaust hood where the air needs to be diffused to the correct velocity for fume, dust, filtration, sufficient oxygen supply, ect; via the design of the intake and exhaust air (ie; fan size), the heart of the system.

This requirement is one of the more challenging designs for air movement and so much that there's many different engineering books published on the subject.

Think of it as working inside of a huge gas tank as there very simular. Get the correct oxygen to carbon mixture, then go boom can happen very easy.

T_Bone

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Chuck UR

04-23-2004 11:43:22




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Paint booth in reply to T_Bone, 04-23-2004 05:51:44  
I've been toying with the idea of building a paint booth for some time.
Why wouldn't it might be easier to build a 'positive pressure' booth thus eliminating the need for a sparkproof fan.
I don't know how to size it but I would have a fan pushing air into the booth thru filters and regulate the airflow via one or more filtered exhaust openings near the floor, down draft.

Your thoughts ???

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CNKS

04-23-2004 14:45:43




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Paint booth in reply to Chuck UR, 04-23-2004 11:43:22  
I think I have proven I don't know anything about spray booths. However, your idea I have seen used by the people who use the temporary plastic sheeting type booth. Some have done it successfully. All the commercial booths I have seen advertised use the negative pressure type. Actually it's really not negative pressure until you run out of air, which will happen if the booth is in another room as I want mine to be. I would think it would be hard to get the correct air flow using a pusher fan, would be either too much or too little. Perhaps this response will produce some disagreement from those who have tried it and they will respond. Actually, after pricing materials to build the booth, it's not the fan price that makes it prohibitive for me, it's heating the "make-up air" needed after my building runs dry, if I do any painting in cold weather.

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T_Bone

04-23-2004 16:52:47




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Paint booth in reply to CNKS, 04-23-2004 14:45:43  
Hi Chuck,

Example: We have wood stove sitting in the main room with bedrooms down a long hall way. The bedrooms will warm some what by the natural air current created from heat rising and cold air sinking but the bedrooms will still be quite cool.

Lets set a fan at mid hieght of a hall way entrance and blow hot main room air towards the bed rooms. We notice a slight rise in bedroom temps but over a very long time period.

Lets reverse the fan air flow to where it sucks from the hall way blowing towards the main room. We now notice a increase in bedroom temps as well as a noticeable faster temperature rise time in the bedrooms.

Why?

(1)With the fan blowing down the hallway, were trying to force the air into a chamber with no outlet and raising static presssure or much like blowing up a balloon.

(2) The first law of Thermodymanics states; "heat flows from a higher heat source to a colder source".

Natural air convection currents in the hallway is the heat is at the top near the cealing with cold air near the floor.

With our fan located near mid hieght and blowing down the hallway, were fighting the natural air current flow in the hallway which is heat down the hallway at the ceiling level and cooler air at the floor moving towards the larger room.

When we reversed air flow were now pumping air from a small chamber into a larger chamber area thus lowering the static pressure or slight vaccum and just like deflating the balloon.

We now are no longer fighting the natural air currents and pumping air with the natural convection flow towards the larger chamber as were now pulling the air in the direction is wants to go naturally.

Now look at air with air borne contaminates (paint droplets, dust, etc ). Trying to blow them to a collection point is pretty much useless as your fighting positve static pressure (just like the hallway example) as well as natural air currents.

Static presssure = The resistance to air flow.

T_Bone

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