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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Cutting Torch Woes

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Skinner

03-05-2004 04:44:24




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How do you cut thin stuff like C-Purlins without them welding back together behind you. I have a small tip, heat turned way down, and moving as fast as I can and it still welds back behind me. Normally a few hits with a hammer will knock it loose but I'd like to get better at cutting this stuff.

Any tips...




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Fred OH

03-06-2004 09:08:50




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 Re: Cutting Torch Woes in reply to Skinner, 03-05-2004 04:44:24  
Skinner...If you ever cut with a machine torch...it would learn you a couple of things...one..if you don't have the pressures set at the tip manufacturers recommended settings you will get slag and I suppose if set too hot...weld back together. And two...when cutting with a torch and aiming the torch straight down (and all settings are correct) the sparks will come out at approximately a 45 degree angle ahead of the torch. This doesn't seem possible...but with a machine torch that travels at a steady speed, and the correct tip...you can play around with the speed, pressures (usually oxygen) and more or less tweak them till there is absolutely no slag what so ever...just a gray scale that you can take your thumbnail and scratch off. And the finish rivals that of a milling machine and a saw cut. You might say that this don't help you with your cutting of the thin stuff but it might get you to experimenting with the correct tip size and correct gas pressures and find out it does help. Knowledge is the key to cutting metal...you gotta get smarter than the metal! Fred OH

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HaroldHubbard

03-06-2004 05:43:17




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 Re: Cutting Torch Woes in reply to Skinner, 03-05-2004 04:44:24  
If you have a lot of that kind of stuff to do, see if you can find a special-purpose tip. My welding instructor, 25 years ago, had one that was made for thin stuff. The end of the tip was flat, rather than round, with only one preheat hole. The cutting oxygen hole was stepped down just the right distance that you could drag the tip right along the surface and cut perfectly. With no preheat flame following the cut, the metal did not weld back together. The one drawback was that you could cut in only one direction, but it was worth it, just took a little practice.

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T_Bone

03-05-2004 09:03:41




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 Re: Cutting Torch Woes in reply to Skinner, 03-05-2004 04:44:24  
Hi Skinner,

Your tip is dirty and/or too much heat is being used. If a clean tip as described below, then adjust your heat down as it doesn't take alot of heat to cut light gauge metal and this also keeps the metal from warping.

The cleanest cut comes from a clean tip. After you clean all the orifice bores in the tip, fire up the torch and set flame for cutting, then depress the cutting lever and observe the inner cutting cone flame.

There should be a long very "uniform" inner flame cutting cone. If that inner cone is not "very" uniform then your cut will be ragged just like the flame cone is and the back of the metal will have slag. Reclean the center orifice until it's very uniform.

A cut with a clean tip will have a very smooth cut surface with very little (if any) slag on the backside of the cut. If either one of these is not present reclean the tip.

The center bore orifice can get deformed and the tip needs replaced or cut off. It's really important to hold the cleaning file straight in the bore hole and just removing enough material to clean the bore to make the tip last a long time.

I've never used a new tip that was clean enough for cutting right out of the box.

To expand on my thoughts:

Altough theres many different tip sizes, I have a found a No-3 makes for a all around good cutting tip as it will cut upto 1-1/2" or 18ga sheet metal depending on the preheat setting.

Another consideration is as the tip size becomes smaller so does the orifice size and it becomes a bare to clean them ity bity holes. If using an automatic cutting machine then changing tip size would be a production benefit.

Setting the proper neutral preheat flame, the orifice holes around the center cutting orifice, can be observed by the tip of the inner flame cone. A neutral flame has a blue colored flame outer sheild with a light blue to white inner cone flame that is slightly rounded at the cone tip. A oxidizing flame (too much oxygen) has a sharp pointed very white inner cone. A reducing flame (not enough oxygen) would have a very round to a ragged thrid inner cone.

T_Bone

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Mark

03-05-2004 09:18:52




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 Re: Re: Cutting Torch Woes in reply to T_Bone, 03-05-2004 09:03:41  
T-Bone, I'm going to print this post and go out and check my cutter.....I never trusted my welding instructor at HNU (Hard Knocks University)..... ...me.

Mark



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Bob

03-05-2004 08:52:24




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 Re: Cutting Torch Woes in reply to Skinner, 03-05-2004 04:44:24  
Plasma cutter.



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Mark

03-05-2004 05:46:09




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 Re: Cutting Torch Woes in reply to Skinner, 03-05-2004 04:44:24  
I use LP rather than Acetylene at 5psig. I set O2 to 30 psig. I Set the tip for about 3/16 of blue flame and adjust the torch for no change in flame when I smack the O2 to it.

Once started, I lay the tip almost flat down on the work pointed in the direction of travel.....and go like crazy. The slag just blows away and the cut is about 2 to 3 inches ahead of the torch.

With that said, I have a little 4?quot; grinder that you can hold in one hand and it does a great job of cleaning up purlins.

Mark

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ShepFL

03-05-2004 05:34:18




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 Re: Cutting Torch Woes in reply to Skinner, 03-05-2004 04:44:24  
Consider setting your torch a little hotter, maybe increase o2 some and tilt the tip to "push" slag out ahead of your cut. That's what I did when building my shop. Slots for the cable bracing were just regular straight cutting with no tip canting whatsoever.
FWIW



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