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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Aggressive chainsaw chain

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smark

02-24-2004 14:48:07




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I am looking for a more Agressive type Chain for my Chainsaw. The Stihl Dealer sold me one that cuts a little quicker than the normal Anti-Kickback Chain but still seems there could be something better. How do the Ripping Chains work at chopping Logs for fire wood size? Any suggestions?




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Timbersavage

02-27-2004 12:33:17




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 Re: Aggressive chainsaw chain in reply to smark, 02-24-2004 14:48:07  
Im a logger by trade and most of the advice given is relevant, raker hieght is important, BUT its nothin to screw around with,, it only takes a few [2] good swipes with a flat file about every third sharpening to make the chain cut at its best. Too "low" on the rakers and youll have nothin but grief and misery [not to mention snapped chains and possibly a broken crank for good measure.. ] oregon skip tooth full chisel chain is what I use and its good. I run a 372xp and a 394xp Husky and it works great on both. Bottom line,, learn to sharpen,, keep it sharp and go easy on the rakers and youll be happy.
Good Luck and be safe

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Van in AR

02-27-2004 04:50:43




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 Re: Aggressive chainsaw chain in reply to smark, 02-24-2004 14:48:07  
All these guys telling you to file down the rakers are not safe, if the rakers are filed down too much the saw is grabby and very kickback prone. Set at the factory hight the cutters will get the bite they need for the most effecent cutting. These guys seem to be looking for a lawsuit.
Van



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Scott

02-25-2004 06:55:05




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 Re: Aggressive chainsaw chain in reply to smark, 02-24-2004 14:48:07  
I took a small flat file to my chain. Start with about 5 good swipes on each rake (nub between teeth) and try the saw. If that's not enough, go for another 5. I'd not do much more than that as I did all that the first time, and couldn't lean into the saw without stalling the saw out. Did make it easier to cut with though.



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jeff

02-24-2004 19:37:59




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 Re: Aggressive chainsaw chain in reply to smark, 02-24-2004 14:48:07  
The posts so far are right there. You need horse power though. 60cc / 3.7cu. inch saw with a 20" bar is a good place to start. I can tell you to keep a knee into the back of your saw so if it does kick it will push you away real quick. Also do NOT SCREW around with goofy friends or novice types around when you cut with these chains. Full power to the brain cells Captain!!!!! Round edge chisel or full chisel is the way and for a 20" saw can be from $18.00 to$22.00 as to quality and the shop. Make a few practice cuts and work your way up to one of these chains. I have had a McCulloch 1-40,"just the motor is 20 lbs." with a 24" bar push me sideways in a very short heart beat and I weigh 272 lbs.
Sounds like a lot of "You'll shot your eye out" but we ain't kidding. Now if your take care you will see a saw that is going to really CUT! I also have an old Partner P-100 that is 6.1 hp and this chain acts like a light saber Luke Skywalker! Only cut wet- green- clean wood and keep it well oiled. One tank of cut oil per tank of fuel. One more thing-- Do you have Buck teeth on this saw? If not- do not even think of useing this kind of chain. Those teeth have to dig into the side of that log and you need to hold them there as you cut. Kick back is as fast as a rattler strike and you sure as SH-- can't get out of the way sparkey. Enough for now. Enjoy Jeff

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jim

02-24-2004 18:11:42




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 Re: Aggressive chainsaw chain in reply to smark, 02-24-2004 14:48:07  
here is my two cents worth. If you want a good aggresive chain, get a full chisel chain, no safety things, then you can file a little off your rakers, then hold on. Now the disadvantages:
Full chisel chain is a square tooth, very fast cutting saw chain, the down side, if you are not a careful sawyer, you will be sharpening chains quite frequently. Cut clean wood, keep you bar out of the dirt, will cust a cord of wood before needs sharpening. I use Carlton chain for this purpaose.
Now, if you are a carelss sawyer and get dirty wood, or getting your bar in the dirt a lot, get your self some carbide sprayed chipper chain with no safety links on it. The jist of what I am trying to say is, if you want a chain to cut fast, it will not stay sharp as long, as one that might cut a little slower. I do not know what you are looking for in speed. I use a regular chipper chain with no safety links and it will cut just as fast a my saw wants to cut it. ripping chain is not a good option for doing anything but ripping. If you are a Stihl man. tell him you want a RS typr of chain, stands for rapid-super. their is not much out there that is better and Stihl chain does keep an edge better than most other chains. It is as good as Carlton, and as I said, I have not found on better. AS for the carbide sprayed chain, you will be looking at about $1.00 per driver, meaning $75.00-$80.00 per chain. Had a lumber company bring chains in on a daily basis to get sharpened, the sold them this stuff and then they were down to less than once a week. that chain makes a lot of differance. I'm done jabbering now.

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RWK in WI

02-24-2004 17:11:58




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 Re: Aggressive chainsaw chain in reply to smark, 02-24-2004 14:48:07  
You can get all kind of chains including some very agressive ones for small saws at Bailey's. 800 - 322 - 4539

www.baileys-online.com

They are good to deal with.



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Jake

02-24-2004 16:37:48




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 Re: Aggressive chainsaw chain in reply to smark, 02-24-2004 14:48:07  
Try this...NOW This IS a CHAINSAW

Link



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RJ-AZ

02-24-2004 16:11:21




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 Re: Aggressive chainsaw chain in reply to smark, 02-24-2004 14:48:07  
I'm running a 3/8 - .050 skip tooth full chisel chain on a Stihl MS310 w/20" bar with good results. It's a pretty aggrssive chain and will kick on ya if you're not paying attention. Man at the saw shop makes it up from a bulk roll.



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knock knock AZ

02-26-2004 20:24:22




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 Re: Re: Aggressive chainsaw chain in reply to RJ-AZ, 02-24-2004 16:11:21  
Agressive is spelled this way not Agrssive



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markct

02-24-2004 15:42:47




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 Re: Aggressive chainsaw chain in reply to smark, 02-24-2004 14:48:07  
a little work with a grinder and you can cut down the little part ahead of the tooth that regulates the depth of cut, some small saw chains are only available in a safety chain, so if you want it to realy cut then you had to grind them down, learned that when i worked in a chainsaw shop a few years ago , but remember the more bite ya take the more power you need so its all relavant



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T_Bone

02-25-2004 01:28:19




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 Re: Re: Aggressive chainsaw chain in reply to markct, 02-24-2004 15:42:47  
Hi Smark,

I just ground my rake points down with a side grinder, about .020, and what a difference upon cutting from a stock chain. The teeth do get grabby and it does put extra strain on the engine so be careful here.

I'm glad that I only took .020 off as any more and I would have made the chain unuseable for my saw.

I also switched to a air die grinder with a 7/32" stone for sharpening. wow about 20min for a real sharp chain that had a few points dulled (sand in the wood) pretty good.

T_Bone

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ralph

02-24-2004 14:53:33




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 Re: Aggressive chainsaw chain in reply to smark, 02-24-2004 14:48:07  

how big a saw do you have? the more aggressive the more HP you need. you need a full chisel skip tooth. ralph



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Davidj

02-24-2004 15:51:39




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 Re: Re: Aggressive chainsaw chain in reply to ralph, 02-24-2004 14:53:33  
Filing a few thousanths off your rakers will make it more aggresive.. You can get the guy selling the sawchain to do it for you or get a guage and do it yourself. Don't take too much off at once as a little goes a long way here. Had a kid take too much off my rakers one time, made the saw grabby and kickey and overall harder to handle safely. Finally broke the chain after about 2 cords from all the snagging it was doing. If its a light saw or you're shy on experience, err on the side of caution and just take a little off till you get comfortable with it. Good luck

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