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How to figure concrete and finishing costs

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Fritz

02-17-2004 17:55:46




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I'd like to get a concrete pad poured in front of my garage and sidewalk this summer. Its approx 36' wide and I'd like to go out as far as I can afford [at least 12']. I want to go 6" thick with this and then add on to it to concrete the rest of my driveway as time and finances allow. What is the formula for figuring yds of concrete required and what is the going rate for this type of work (grading, forms and finishing)? Much obliged.

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Concrete Man Dan

02-19-2004 19:09:57




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 Re: How to figure concrete and finishing costs in reply to Fritz, 02-17-2004 17:55:46  
Wow its amazing how many different suggestions and recommendations there are here. I have been in the concerete business for the last 15 yrs in N. Mich. I would recommend you stay with your idea of 6 inches thick request a 6 sack exterior grade mix regardless if you or a contractor does the job. If you live in a northern climate that is subject to freeze thaw potential also request that the mix design contains a crushed aggregate and has a air content of 5.5 to 6.5 as this also aids in the longevity of the slab in the case of freeze thaw cycles. As far as rebar or wire mesh or the addition of fibermesh to the mix each one of these has a benefit. I see more fibermesh added to my exterior pours more than anything else for residential projects. It doesn't add any thing to the compressive strength but niether do rod or wire mesh all they all do is help hold the slab together if it cracks. Putting releif cut/crack control cuts is very important and do it as soon as possible after the slab is poured. Like the next morning. There are two guarantees in pouring concrete 1-its going to get hard 2- it's going to crack. If you have someone do the job let them order the qaunity but check to make sure you are getting the thickness you want and ask to see a copy of the delivery ticket. good luck. Dan

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Rick

02-18-2004 02:35:11




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 Re: How to figure concrete and finishing costs in reply to Fritz, 02-17-2004 17:55:46  
36 X 12 = 432ftsq. = to 8 cubic yards, (order 9 to be sure) tell the concrete yard that you need it for a slab, it should be 5.5 bag mix, minimum. and have the guy floating it out put a wire mesh under the crete, this strengthens it. labor will be about $500 + the concrete so about $1000 or so.



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DL

02-19-2004 18:27:28




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 Re: Re: How to figure concrete and finishing costs in reply to Rick, 02-18-2004 02:35:11  
Figures out to exactly eight cubic yards... if he orders nine he'll be dumping a whole yard on the ground! Eight & a quarter yards should be god-awful plenty to allow for irregularities in the ground under the slab!



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Hayman

02-18-2004 01:14:19




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 Re: How to figure concrete and finishing costs in reply to Fritz, 02-17-2004 17:55:46  
4" with mesh should be ample.



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JMS/MN

02-17-2004 23:59:02




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 Re: How to figure concrete and finishing costs in reply to Fritz, 02-17-2004 17:55:46  
If you pour concrete six inches thick you will get 54 square feet per yard. Normally, for car, light truck, tractor traffic, four inch thick concrete is the norm. Then you will get 81 square feet of coverage, per cubic yard of concrete. A yard of concrete is 3' by 3' by 3'= 27 cubic feet. If it is 4 inches thick, or 1/3 of a foot, then 27x3=81 square feet of coverage.



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Greywolf

02-18-2004 04:50:44




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 Re: Re: How to figure concrete and finishing costs in reply to JMS/MN, 02-17-2004 23:59:02  
Using standard lumber for forming makes a *4"* actually 3 1/2".

Then a yard of concrete makes 88 sq ft of surface.

30 years ago we poured 1,000 yds of concrete for a feed lot. No rerod or wire mesh. 6 sack mix, continuous runs 16' wide, no expansion joints, no stress cuts. All poured "2 X 4" thick. Still stands today and I drive a loaded semi across it (88,000 sometimes).

Key to having a slab stand up is having a very well packed surface under it. Voids under the slab will allow breakup.

Do your prep work well before hand and you'll have a long lasting finished product.

Just like painting...prep prep prep!!!!! !

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Mark

02-18-2004 10:05:00




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 Re: Re: Re: How to figure concrete and finishing c in reply to Greywolf, 02-18-2004 04:50:44  
I can't let this get away.

My pet pieve..... .cracked slabs.

Reason, I live on Houston Black Clay. The local State Registered (Civil) Engineer stated that "it's unsuitable for dwellings and roadways".....nar a truer statement made.

If you are doing what you say and it is not cracking up and moving away from it'self making big gaps where the cracks formed, you must have poured in on granite or something like it.

Down here (where there is no frost line)we use 1/2 inch rebar (heck with the 10 ga. mesh) on 12" centers and pre fill and pack with a sand/clay mix referred to as "select fill", use 6 bag mix at 6 inches depth..... FOR A RESIDENTAL DRIVEWAY and 1 to 2 years later pow, split, crack. errrrr rrrrr rrrrr rrrrr rr.

I hate it.

Mark

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RobertN

02-22-2004 10:21:19




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: How to figure concrete and finishi in reply to Mark, 02-18-2004 10:05:00  
That's where your deep grooves for expansion and drainage will come in to play. You may even add a specific expansion joint with the felt board.

Someone else mentioned concrete will do two things, get hard, and crack. If you groove it right, at least it will crack where you want it, not where you don't.



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Vern-MI

02-18-2004 13:29:55




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: How to figure concrete and finishi in reply to Mark, 02-18-2004 10:05:00  
Poured garage floor (7" x 22' x 24') and front porch (7" x 8' x 32') using 7 bag mix and 1/2" rebar on 8" centers in both directions on SE Michigan clay. Put in appropriate cuts of no more than 10' spans. Made sure that the rebar was held up in the center of the pour using cement bricks under the rebar prior to the pour. No vapor barrier. It has held up well for 12 years. It was poured on a cool Fall day and I misted the concrete after the pour to keep the temperature down. Of course the contractor moaned about how fussy I was by making sure the thickness was uniform and the rebar was in the right place and putting the cuts in my predescribed locations. He even said he wouldn't gaurantee it. Like that made any difference.

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Mark

02-19-2004 09:39:40




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: How to figure concrete and fin in reply to Vern-MI, 02-18-2004 13:29:55  
I bet you did the engineering.

Had a Morton building erected. So I started talking with the salesman about the slab....rememb er we're on Houston clay....he ranted on ..... .4" (really 3 1/2) with wire mesh yak yak yak.

I came home the evening before the pour and ripped up all their mesh and installed rebar. It cracked anyway but at least it went nowhere....course I didn't have a lot of rebar to put in.

Mark

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Greywolf

02-18-2004 11:58:13




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: How to figure concrete and finishi in reply to Mark, 02-18-2004 10:05:00  
There are some stress cracks in it. The entire 1000 yds comprise of about 2 1/4 acres.

There are no places where the individual slabs are "moving away" from each other. All the slabs are as tight together today as they were 30+ yrs ago when poured.

There are 2 places where there is break up, both places are around a 15' square or so where the fill settled underneath. One area was from broken water line underneath.

Over this area, 10,000+ yd of sandy clay fill was layed in by a road contractor, final screeding of gravel on 2 X 4 forms was done to give level base.

Concrete was poured in July. Now the additional 400 yds that was poured 4 yrs later in Sept isn't holding up as well as the first pour of 1000yds. The base fill underneath wasn't near the base fill on the first pour.

That is why i mentioned a good base under does as much or more for a solid slab as rebar and/or mesh.

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Mark

02-19-2004 09:34:36




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: How to figure concrete and fin in reply to Greywolf, 02-18-2004 11:58:13  
Well I'll surely agree with your good base comment and will agree that that is the only reason your huge slab has been a success.

Something weird around here (for around here) is some highway construction that's going on. They come in and remove about 3' of the Houston clay and fill with several types of soil and do the packing and watering and all and then lay asphalt as if they were going make an asphalt road but come back with 10" of concrete and some of them do and some of them don't have rebar. The ones without rebar have sections that they saw to deliberately break and at these sections they install steel pins to keep them together....very interesting.

Mark

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Greywolf

02-19-2004 11:02:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: How to figure concrete and in reply to Mark, 02-19-2004 09:34:36  
Experiment like that have been done up here in MN too.

Reason for the asphalt undereath is to provide a somewhat of a "waterproof" barrier underneath and a base that won't settle as much. Water permeation with the frost is what destroys the roads up here.



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John

02-17-2004 21:26:54




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 Re: How to figure concrete and finishing costs in reply to Fritz, 02-17-2004 17:55:46  
If it is 36ft wide and 6in thick. Each foot would figure this way.
1 cu ft 6" thick would cover 2 sq ft
36'/2=18 cu ft per foot of run
18 cu ft/ 27 cu ft per yard=.666 yards per ft
Using Larry's figure of $100. for labor and $60. per yd for concrete for a total of $160. per yard
$160.x.666 yards per ft= $106.67 per ft of run



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Larry e

02-17-2004 19:52:11




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 Re: How to figure concrete and finishing costs in reply to Fritz, 02-17-2004 17:55:46  

I paid $100 per yard of cement,and I bought cement.He prepared it leveling digging and filling where needed.Also power troweled it.All I had to do was cut for expansion joint layed out in ten squares.



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Jeff in TX

02-17-2004 19:51:48




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 Re: How to figure concrete and finishing costs in reply to Fritz, 02-17-2004 17:55:46  
Use this site. Should answer a lot of questions.



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rhudson

02-17-2004 18:23:38




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 Re: How to figure concrete and finishing costs in reply to Fritz, 02-17-2004 17:55:46  
ok, concrete sold by cubic yard (invision a box three feet high, three feet wide, three feet long or a total of 27 cubic feet) so take your thickness measured in inches and divide that by 12 to get thickness in feet. multiply that by the width (measured in feet) and by the length (also measured in feet), divide the answer by 27 to find the amount of concrete needed in cubic yards. some people add 10 to 20 % to this for allowance. i guessing concrete cost around $60/yard delivered but you can get an actual cost on that. finishing cost depends on available labor cost in your area (some people charge by the square foot or by the cubic yard) throw in the cost of either rebar or maybe welded wire to stablize any cracks that occur.

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SteveB(wi)

02-17-2004 19:34:29




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 Re: Re: How to figure concrete and finishing costs in reply to rhudson, 02-17-2004 18:23:38  
I poured 40 yards when I did my dwy. last summer. Here in SE WI I paid $90/yd with Saturday delivery. Our paving contract prices last year for 5" walk were around $4 - 4.50 a square foot.



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john

02-17-2004 18:16:46




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 Re: How to figure concrete and finishing costs in reply to Fritz, 02-17-2004 17:55:46  
Fritz...

there are 27 cu feet in a yard of concrete... calculate your area.... width x length... for instance

if it's 12 x 36 that equals 432 sq feet.

Now to convert sq ft to cubic feet multiply the number of sq.ft by the thickness in inches...

i.e. 432 x 6 (six inches thick) = 2592

finally multiply that number (2592) times 0.0033 to get cubic yards...

i.e. 2592 x 0.0033 = 8.55 cu yards...

can't help you on the cost/install price... check with a local finisher..

the formula is...

sq. ft. x inches thick x .0033 = cubic yards

john

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DL

02-19-2004 18:43:12




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 Re: Re: How to figure concrete and finishing costs in reply to john, 02-17-2004 18:16:46  
Well, we almost got it... 12' x 36' does indeed equal 432 square feet, but to get the cubic feet (length x width x depth) we must multiply by feet (6" = 1/2 of a foot or .5') so... 432 x .5 = 216 cubic feet! Now, since there ARE 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard, we divide 216 by 27 and get EIGHT cubic yards!!!!



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I'll be darned

02-17-2004 19:38:29




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 Re: Re: How to figure concrete and finishing costs in reply to john, 02-17-2004 18:16:46  
So 3ft x 3ft x 36in x .0033 = 1.07 cu. yds. Must be that shrinkage factor in play.



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I`m Confused

02-17-2004 20:14:16




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 Re: Re: Re: How to figure concrete and finishing c in reply to I'll be darned, 02-17-2004 19:38:29  
????



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thurlow

02-18-2004 07:22:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: How to figure concrete and finishi in reply to I`m Confused, 02-17-2004 20:14:16  
Think what Darned is saying is that 3ft x 3ft x 3ft is 1 cubic yard, but using the formula given, 3 x 3 x 3 equals MORE than 1 cubic yard.



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Joe Evans

02-17-2004 21:09:23




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: How to figure concrete and finishi in reply to I`m Confused, 02-17-2004 20:14:16  
You, too?



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Fritz

02-18-2004 02:53:49




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: How to figure concrete and fin in reply to Joe Evans, 02-17-2004 21:09:23  
Thanks for all the swell information - I'll start the wife to digging as soon as the snow melts - giggle. This board is a great place for good information.



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