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Milling lumber

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Mark

02-15-2004 20:49:29

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Well, I am getting close to buying a mill. I used a friends Wood Mizer 40 Hyd for a few hours the other day. Ended up with some nice beams and a bunch of 2x4's and 2x6's. What are the best ways to stack fresh cut lumber so it will not warp? I stacked it on blocks, stickered it and covered it with tin. Does it help to paint the ends even if the sun does not hit it? What about strapping it? Thanks

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bob

02-16-2004 21:10:22

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Re: Milling lumber in reply to Mark, 02-15-2004 20:49:29

2" lumber should be stacked on its 2" side, so the long way is up & down. That way, if it warps, the warp can be straightened out when its placed in a wall. If it warps on its side, it wont fit in a wall, it will create a hump inward or outward in the wall.

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treeboy

02-16-2004 17:48:25

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Re: Milling lumber in reply to Mark, 02-15-2004 20:49:29

go to the library and look at some old sawmill books, ya got to place stickers around18" to 24"'s preferrably dry inch by inch or 3/4 by11/4, keep stickers on hand & keep em dry.. DO NOT COVER fresh sawn (green) lbr. with plastic, use old tin or used plywood with some weight ,LIKE some 4x4's or 3x4's placed over the stickers,, stickers should be placed close to the end of the boards to help in preventing end splitting during the drying,, this is where the used left over paint comes in, paint end of boards, this also helps the splitting problem,, find an area with south exposure, that gets good air movement, 8 or 10 concrete blocks , a couple of 5x5's the length of the lbr & some 3x4 accross every 18"'s and start stacking, some oldtimers always sloped their stacks to the rear to help shed water....the work begins

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Robert in W. Mi

02-16-2004 18:23:17

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Re: Re: Milling lumber in reply to treeboy, 02-16-2004 17:48:25

Treeboy,

I'm with you, except don't forget the Anchorseal!!!! Nothing works as well as Anchorseal for sealing the ends of logs and lumber, and it SHOULD be used on any log that you expect good lumber from!! It should be put on the log as soon as it's cut!

Robert

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Mark

02-16-2004 19:45:55

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Re: Re: Re: Milling lumber in reply to Robert in W. Mi, 02-16-2004 18:23:17

Robert,

I typed "milling my own lumber" on a web search and found all your pictures of your place on some website. Looks like you have a nice operation. What type of logs do you put in your pond? I am going to be milling mostly fir and redwood - some oak. Should these be milled right away or dried, kept wet if I can't get to it right away? thanks

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Robert in W. Mi

02-17-2004 08:00:45

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Milling lumber in reply to Mark, 02-16-2004 19:45:55

I put what ever logs i have and can't get milled right away in my ponds. I Anchorseal them ASAP. ALL logs should be milled as soon after cutting as possible.

You don't have to do that, but every day you don't, you will have lower grade lumber out of the logs.

Rovert

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phil

02-16-2004 12:23:08

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Re: Milling lumber in reply to Mark, 02-15-2004 20:49:29

A good thing to purchase is the type of mill that you can "afford" to enjoy not a mill that you worry about that next payment. It may be different than your buddy's but it might just work good for you, Having said that be sure to look at the cost of having to buy replacment blades[OEM versa other brands] cost of your own sharpener/custom sharpen, cost share you buddys sharpener and SETTER works in some cases. The hidden expenses can make a cheaper mill cost more than a used or new brand name more in the end, especially if you have to purchase a sharpener to do just one brand of blade. You can never ask a "dumb" question, it's just a question of asking!

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Mark

02-16-2004 13:39:06

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Re: Re: Milling lumber in reply to phil, 02-16-2004 12:23:08

Thanks for the info. I am hoping to get a mill that I can keep, run and last for the next 30+ years. I plan on spending the $2000 for a sharpener to do my own blades. So far, I have determained the bandsaw is for me. The woodmizers seem to be forgiving to a solo guy working by himself. When I cut a tree down, I would like to mill it up and may not have help. There is a dealer in Sacramento, Ca which is about 2 1/2/ hours from me and it's important for me to see what I am buying since I don't have time to travel out of state to look at them. Have not heard any bad things about the woodmizers, just many advantages and disadvantages to all the options out there. I may also do a little side work for people I know with the mill.

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TimV

02-16-2004 18:23:39

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Re: Re: Re: Milling lumber in reply to Mark, 02-16-2004 13:39:06

Mark: I can't add a lot to the stickering discussion, other than to say that we never painted our ends and got away fine without it. However, in high-value wood you may want to do it, as even a few inches of spoiled wood can make a big difference. Speaking of a few inches, when and if you get to the point of actually cutting your trees, it's standard practice to make the logs a few inches beyond "nominal" length (8', 10', 12', etc.) to allow for trimming the ends should it be necessary. Even the most carefully dried wood can develop end cracks, and you don't want all of your 12' walnut boards to end up 10' boards after trimming!

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Shane

02-16-2004 04:54:39

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Re: Milling lumber in reply to Mark, 02-15-2004 20:49:29

Have been told you should paint the ends of the logs as soon after cutting as possible, it is easier to paint while a log rather than when it is cut into lumber. If the link works I think this site has some good info on milling and drying lumber.

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shane

02-16-2004 04:56:28

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Re: Re: Milling lumber in reply to Shane, 02-16-2004 04:54:39

oops! sorry, see if it works this time.

Milling link

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Fred p

02-15-2004 23:12:17

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Re: Milling lumber in reply to Mark, 02-15-2004 20:49:29

First off block it up off of the ground about 6". It is not a bad idea to put a sheet of plastic on the ground (do as I say not as I do) Sticker each layer with 1" sticker every3 to 4' +-. Keep stickers over the stickers in the row below. Cover with tin or plastic. If you use plastic place some stickers under the plastic to let air to the top of the pile. If you band the pile green the banding will not be tight when it drys. I like to keep the piles small enough that I can move them with the front end loader.

The Wood Mizer is a good mill. You should also look at a Mobil Dimension. They make a little more saw dust, but they make more boards easer, or at least I think so. If I was only cutting high value logs, I would go with the Wood Mizer. Low or medium grade logs I would trade some saw dust for ease and cost of milling.

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