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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Questions on Wood Mills

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Mark

02-08-2004 19:11:30




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Thanks to those who replied to my post a couple of weeks ago and I have a few more questions to those with experience. Although I have been around equipment and cutting firewood all my life, my time around mills is slim at best. I am looking at a new Woodmiser LT40 with the hyd. lift. After looking back in the old posts there seems to be a lot of talk about saw blades vs. band saws. If someone could shed some light on that, it would help. I am going to be using it mostly for my own use milling Pine, Redwood, Fir, and a little Walnut, and a little Oak but mostly soft wood though. The LT40 says it can do up to 36", is this true? I have Fir and Redwood trees over 36", so what options do I have in this situation other than going to a bigger mill? I am not looking for the fastest cutting mill out there, nor am I going to be doing it all day long, mainly to produce a little lumber here and there. Is it best to let the logs to sit? If so, how long? I would think the wood would cut better green and then stack it so it won't warp. Thanks in advance for your help.

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Hayman

02-09-2004 19:27:11




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 Re: Questions on Wood Mills in reply to Mark, 02-08-2004 19:11:30  
I don't have a Woodmiser but sometimes I've had to split the bigger logs with my chain saw.If the log was only a little too big I could just trim each side.But the first cut on those really big logs is about 10" down so that is a hassle when trying for certain cuts.



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ray

02-09-2004 14:01:59




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 Re: Questions on Wood Mills in reply to Mark, 02-08-2004 19:11:30  
I have a woodmiser lt30 - manual. With manual log loader. I use a tractor to load the mill. Logs that size you're going to want a tractor (figured I just say that)..
Get the most HP you can get. Less time in the wood longer the blades last(more bdft per blade). Low HP means more time in the log. Logs left to lay should be debarked and end sealed. I just cut mine into cants and paint the ends. Its a good time to fell the trees -- winter that is. There is 15-30% less sap in the tree and up to 40% less water. (A oak will have up 3.5 gallons per cubic foot when green 2 quarts when dry). I stay away from trees that don't fit on the mill. If its a must I quarter them using a chainsaw. A 36" diameter tree rocks the mill no matter how level you are seated when positioning the logs on the bunk.

Check out the peterson, lucas - swing mills as well. I forget which one advertises the ability to mill large trees like the ones you're mentioning. Buying a mill that might be undersized out of the gate for $15-25k might not be the best way to go.

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ray

02-10-2004 06:47:11




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 Re: Re: Questions on Wood Mills in reply to ray, 02-09-2004 14:01:59  
On the logs sitting. I've had tree lay bunked in a pile for two years and milled good wood out of them. Watch for bugs. The general consensus is get the bark off them as soon as possible. Check out Link the sawmilling forum is sponsored by woodmiser.



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GPWT

02-09-2004 09:48:53




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 Re: Questions on Wood Mills in reply to Mark, 02-08-2004 19:11:30  
Mark,
FWIW, I have had wood (oak mostly) cut by both circular saw and band saw mills, and would never use a circular saw mill again. The band saw mills give about 20% more yield, and the wood quality is better.
As to timing, it is best to saw the logs ASAP, letting them "age" is the same as letting them rot. Paint the ends of the logs with paint or varnish to seal it so the boards don't split when they dry.
The Woodmisers are nice saws, it's what I would buy if I were in the market for one.

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TimV

02-08-2004 22:02:58




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 Re: Questions on Wood Mills in reply to Mark, 02-08-2004 19:11:30  
Mark: While the circular saw vs. band saw debate could go on for hours, as an "executive summary", a circle mill is faster, and a band mill is more portable and wastes less wood due to a thinner kerf (width of cut). The LT-40 will indeed cut 36" trees, but you can expect to do quite a bit of canting (turning the log on the mill) in order to get it whittled down to a manageable size. This is not necessarily a bad thing, as it allows you to get a look at the wood on all four sides prior to making your first "real" cut. Depending on where you are located, it would be worth your while to visit one of Wood-Mizer's showrooms. They typically have several mill set up and running, and their sales people are usually VERY knowledgable--Wood-Mizer's general practice is to hire sales people who have been running their mills for years, and know them inside-out.

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