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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Concrete for a Pole Barn Floor

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IH230

01-23-2004 05:10:15




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Planning to have a concrete floor poured into a 40'x60' Pole Barn in Southeast MO this spring. 1/2" rebar on 2' centers, 6 mil plastic, 6" wide by 12" deep trench between poles, 6" depth and maybe fiber. Flat floor with two 4" drains to squeegee any rain or snow water to.

Should poles be wrapped with asphalt impregnated fiber board? Should bottom splash plate be covered with asphalt impregnated fiber board?

Should I place 2" angle iron at door openings to protect concrete edge?

Any other thoughts or suggestions.

Thanks in advance for your help.

(Barn will only be heated six or seven days a month so no plans for floor heat.)

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Harrison

01-23-2004 18:01:12




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 Re: Concrete for a Pole Barn Floor in reply to IH230, 01-23-2004 05:10:15  
I would have the bug man sub saturate for termites a few days before the pour.Them rascals will also chew on concrete. I had some problems with them not far from you.



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Mark

01-23-2004 15:01:05




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 Re: Concrete for a Pole Barn Floor in reply to IH230, 01-23-2004 05:10:15  
I would use larger than 4" drains,6-8" minimum with a trap around them to catch grass straw dirt etc. I used a piece of railroad rail with rebar welded to it at my big slider,just about indestructable if you hit it with a loader bucket,or catch it with an implement.



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Jim in N M

01-23-2004 10:51:48




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 Re: Concrete for a Pole Barn Floor in reply to IH230, 01-23-2004 05:10:15  
One of the best things you can do at the door opening is: Put a 1in. step at the opening as wide as the door and in about 12in. That way when the door is down any rain water hitting the door won't run in under the door. all the other idea's are good. just my .02 cents worth----Jim in N M



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RAR/IA

01-23-2004 09:10:28




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 Re: Concrete for a Pole Barn Floor in reply to IH230, 01-23-2004 05:10:15  
My contractor sloped the 20' near the door to the door. Also sides for the same location slope toward the center and door. Can park snow covered tractor and blade to melt off there. Do not have any floor drains on an otherwise flat floor. Happy with it!
Yes on the angle iron for lip at door. Add rerod (12 to 15" long) welded into the Vee of the angle iron and into the door footing concrete. (Morton design)
Do have them saw relief lines (cracks). No other cracking since several years.
Roger

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Bguy

01-23-2004 08:57:08




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 Re: Concrete for a Pole Barn Floor in reply to IH230, 01-23-2004 05:10:15  
I would suggest going at least 18" deep on the footing. I would be afraid that a 12" footing would still allow heaving sometimes in your location. I am in Tennessee and I made the mistake of not going deep enough with my footing.



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Lessions Learned

01-23-2004 08:19:04




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 Re: Concrete for a Pole Barn Floor in reply to IH230, 01-23-2004 05:10:15  
Completely agree with Fred and would add,

Make sure the floor is higher than ground level "all" the way around. I have one on a slight slope (0-38" over 32') and there is about 10' or so of one side that is basicly level with the ground. In heavy rain floor of shop tends to get wet along that part of the wall.

Second, don't mess with round 4" floor drains. Just about any grass, dirt, sawdust will plug it up. Have something like a 6"x6" or 3"x12" with removable grate.

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Fred - Kansas

01-23-2004 05:50:41




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 Re: Concrete for a Pole Barn Floor in reply to IH230, 01-23-2004 05:10:15  
The floor drain is a good idea. Melting snow can be a mess. Since water runs down hill, I'd see if the concrete folks would build in a slight slope in the floor, maybe 10' out from the drain, so that any melting snow would just that run into the drain on it's own. I did not do this and have to keep the squeegee handy.

Also, I'd build a footing, maybe 8" deep by 12" wide, in front of any doorways. This will support the initial weight of the equipment when it is moved into the shed.

One last thought. The floor is more than likely to get stress cracks, especially radiating out from the poles. I'd have the concrete folks cut some releif lines into the floor. Looks a lot better and unlike stress cracks, won't go to grade allowing moisture to wick up, freeze and add to the cracks.

I'm no expert on this. These are just some thoughts I had. Good luck on the floor.

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