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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Metal Bending Question

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Steve

01-16-2004 10:15:43




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What do you use to bend metal plates or heavy sheet metal. Most of the benders I see are only good for 18 - 20 gauge. How do you bend something like a piece of 1/4", 4 foot wide?

Thanks,




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mcj

01-18-2004 11:47:01




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 Re: Metal Bending Question in reply to Steve, 01-16-2004 10:15:43  
You will need to find a shop with a power brake to do it correctly. You may have to 'step bend' it, that is bend to a 45* or less and move it very slightly on the brake. This would give you a larger radius. You may also want to use a radius bar which is a piece of softer metal bent to fit the power brake. If the metal is tempered, you may want to make sure to bend against the 'grain' of the metal.

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thebigron

01-16-2004 20:31:59




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 Re: Metal Bending Question in reply to Steve, 01-16-2004 10:15:43  
You can take a 4 inch grinder with a 1/4" thick grinding rock and score one side about 1/2 or a little more through the plate. Grinding a trench will give you enough relief and you will be surprised how easily and straight it will bend. However, you will have to weld a bead on the inside of the bend if you are in a need for strength at the bend. This is a torch poor man's way to do it.



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mj

01-16-2004 16:29:26




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 Re: Metal Bending Question in reply to Steve, 01-16-2004 10:15:43  
In the past, I've laid out the line of bend on plate and then cut along that line with a torch, leaving a spot at each end and 2 or 3 more such sections evenly spaced in between uncut. Heat these sections at the same time (a couple of oxy/acetylene torches and 2 guys can handle 2 or 3 sections apiece) and make your bend then re-weld the cuts. Talk about poor-boying...but I poor-boy all the time...it's fortifyin'!

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Steve - Followup Question

01-16-2004 13:04:00




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 Re: Metal Bending Question in reply to Steve, 01-16-2004 10:15:43  
Is problem the width or the thickness? Even if I wanted to bend a piece that was 1 foot wide (still 1/4" thick), would that also require the metal shop to do it?



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Matt K

01-16-2004 13:47:12




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 Re: Re: Metal Bending Question in reply to Steve - Followup Question, 01-16-2004 13:04:00  
The problem is a function of width, thickness, and the material strength. I don't remember the calculations off the top of my head, but a press brake capable of bending an 8' piece of 1/4" might only be able to bend a 4' piece of 1/2". That being said, a 1' wide piece of 1/4" shouldn't be too hard to bend (if you have a torch) at home.



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Carl

01-16-2004 13:41:54




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 Re: Re: Metal Bending Question in reply to Steve - Followup Question, 01-16-2004 13:04:00  
Yep! The width is the real problem, I have bent 1-inch by 12-inch very successfully like I mentioned before with heat. Carl



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T_Bone

01-16-2004 16:38:46




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 Re: Re: Re: Metal Bending Question in reply to Carl, 01-16-2004 13:41:54  
Hi Steve,

There are two types of common brakes for cold metal forming, hydraulic press brakes and a hand brakes.

Hand brakes are limited too 16ga x 10ft wide. You can however bend shorter thicker metal provinding you take the time to adjust the brake for the correct clearence of the bend equirement.

I don't know if there is a upper limit for press brakes. Very common is a hydraulic 90-ton press brake rated for 1/4" x 8ft and a 120-ton rated for 1/4" at 10ft. Once again you can also bend shorter thicker metal with the proper dies and adjustment.

What is the correct clearence for bottom dies or a nose bar? 8 times the metal thickness. That applys too hand brakes or press brakes. That also apply's to bend radius of pipe. Trying to bend sharper radius will cause metal fatique or crack along the bend radius. This fatique fracture will occur being visable or not.

That means the bottom die on a press brake needs to be 2" wide opening to bend 1/4" material or the nose bar needs to be set back 2" from the leaf. The top die needs to be a radius equal to the plate thickness.

It's both the width and the thickness of the metal that sets forming limitations.

Now if your wanting to hot bend thick metal then there's no limtations. You do however have to beware of total heat required along with bend radius requirements.

As stated by Carl and MattK in previous posts:
A simple method to bending 1/4" plate is too use a thick steel welding bench. Set the 1/4" plate to extend past the bench edge by 1/2", then clamp (several clamps) a angle iron on the scribed bend line, then heat to a bright red thru in thru then apply bending pressure with a pipe wrench with a cheater bar. The clamping angle needs to have a radius ground to keep with-in the bend radius requirement.

If you have a hand bearing press you can also make dies to make a bend with or without preheating.

T_Bone

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Carl

01-16-2004 12:00:55




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 Re: Metal Bending Question in reply to Steve, 01-16-2004 10:15:43  
It's pretty crude, but take a straight edge heat a line, red hot then clamp the straight edge to the edge of a large table, take a 15 to 18-inch adjustable wrenches and pull your guts out. Need 2 to 3 people to help. If you have a tractor torch it will work better. Or have it bent at steel supply like already mentioned. Carl



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Mac

01-16-2004 11:45:53




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 Re: Metal Bending Question in reply to Steve, 01-16-2004 10:15:43  
You will have to find someone with a hydraulic operated bender on this one.



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Scott

01-16-2004 10:36:38




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 Re: Metal Bending Question in reply to Steve, 01-16-2004 10:15:43  
For material that size you would need a heavy duty press brake that would cost many thousands.
The cheapest way is to order the plate bent to you specs. when you order it from the steel plant.



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Mel

01-18-2004 14:40:02




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 Re: Re: Metal Bending Question in reply to Scott, 01-16-2004 10:36:38  
For one off fabrications, its hard to beat mj's suggestions above. I use his approach often repairing grain elevator spouting. (I weld it up in the shop, then bolt the repair in) I stitch cut with a torch, typically starting 1/2" from the end of the marked edge that I want to bend and cut a kerf up to several inches, leave another 1/2", cut more, etc. I try to have 3 or 4 uncut 1/2" tabs on longer pieces. I can often bend the piece by hand or more easily with 2 12 inch crescent wrenches.
This requires a steady hand with a torch, a good clean small cutting tip to minimize the width of the kerf(I like to use a Purox #3 tip on 1/4" sheet), and an experienced eye for following a line with a torch, but it is an easy and rapid fabricating process. Try it, you'll like it.

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