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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Homelite 330 chainsaw

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Paul

01-08-2004 21:56:31




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Have a 330 saw that wasn't running right. Replaced all the diaphrams in the carb and set the high and low speed screws. Saw will run and idle setting on a hard surface pressing down on the handle but as soon as I pick it up it starts racing like it's leaning out. It has the anti-vibration feature. Is there a common problem with this saw or what might I look for? Thanks, Paul




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Larry

08-03-2004 13:06:03




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 Re: Homelite 330 chainsaw in reply to Paul, 01-08-2004 21:56:31  
I want to buy an attachment to saw boards with my Homelite 330 but I don't know the chain gauge. There are three possibilities and I want to be sure of the right one. Anybody know if there was only one gauge and what it is?

Larry



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BillW

01-11-2004 13:51:04




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 Re: Homelite 330 chainsaw in reply to Paul, 01-08-2004 21:56:31  
The rubber Boot/Connector for the HOMELITE 330 & 350/360 are still a good design but need replacing every 8-10 years. I stock both boots as well as the isolation rubbers.



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Ron McDonald

01-15-2005 16:35:53




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 Re: Re: Homelite 330 chainsaw in reply to BillW, 01-11-2004 13:51:04  
Rubber boot is gone in my 330. got it almost apart, but when removing the top half plastic fuel tank doesnt seem to have enough clearance. What have I missed?
Thanks Ron



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Paul

01-10-2004 12:33:35




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 Re: Homelite 330 chainsaw in reply to Paul, 01-08-2004 21:56:31  
Thanks everyone for the comments. Scott was right about the rubber boot. I pulled the saw apart today and the boot was split letting it suck air when I picked up on it. Thanks again, Paul



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EIL

01-10-2004 02:07:13




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 Re: Homelite 330 chainsaw in reply to Paul, 01-08-2004 21:56:31  
I am nearly 100% positive that it's the crankshaft seals since this is a common symtom of them leaking.



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Scott

01-10-2004 11:20:56




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 Re: Re: Homelite 330 chainsaw in reply to EIL, 01-10-2004 02:07:13  
If it was the crank seals the rpm would not change when you move the handle when you pick the saw up. The carb is mounted to the handle frame which in isolated from the crankcase so when you pick the saw up the handle moves in relation to the crankcase thus opening up the crack or split in the intake boot. Commen problem with these Homelite saws I have replaced several of the boots.



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RICK

01-09-2004 17:40:29




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 Re: Homelite 330 chainsaw in reply to Paul, 01-08-2004 21:56:31  
if i was you i would trade it in on a stihl



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Don

01-10-2004 11:30:44




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 Re: Re: Homelite 330 chainsaw in reply to RICK, 01-09-2004 17:40:29  
With a Stihl you'ed have more trouble than the Homelite. If you buy new the only way to go is Husqvarna!



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RICK

01-10-2004 19:33:05




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 Re: Re: Re: Homelite 330 chainsaw in reply to Don, 01-10-2004 11:30:44  
i guess i forgot to mention husqvarna i have a 61
its a great saw bought back in 1985 i believe had it overhauled once it just keeps on ticking



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Scott

01-09-2004 17:04:14




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 Re: Homelite 330 chainsaw in reply to Paul, 01-08-2004 21:56:31  
I had the same problem with my Homelite 360. The problem is the rubber boot between the carb and clylinder. You remove the carb and handle gas tank assembly to get to it. I dont know if homelite still makes them but you can find them on ebay for about $15. Don't run your saw until you fix it as it can suck dirt in and will run lean which will damage the cylinder and rings. Scott.



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Tony Greco

07-29-2004 21:52:32




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 Re: Re: Homelite 330 chainsaw in reply to Scott, 01-09-2004 17:04:14  
Looking for Bar Nuts for my Homelite 330 chainsaw. Thanks



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