Tieing a tractor to a trailer

Do I cross over the ratchet compression straps from one side of the tractor to the trailer frame etc? Do I secure it from rolling forward and well, my questions are: how do you folks do it, and do it right? thanks. tlc

Don't let these part time cowboy and full time yuppies get you or anyone else killed with them d***** Wally World super yuppie week end tractor hauler straps. They're telling you something here that is really really dangerous.

Them straps will not, will not, will not hold that tractor if you get into a bind in traffic or have to stop abruptly. If they don't tear in to pieces they will stretch and break.

Them rachet straps were designed for yuppies to haul antique potty chairs home from the rummage sale at the Methodist church on a Tojo-ota, they were not designed to use to safely secure a tractor.

You can make a set of clevices to use the chains like Dean suggested without scratching that dorf paint job. You will not ever be able to get a dead man to breathe again or crippled man to walk right.

I have great respect for our colleages here but they screwed up this time. Come on guys get real.

You can be safe as many times as need be, but you only get the one chance to get killed.

Burrhead

Some of these boys don't know that truck drivers lie alot so please either talk about something else besides safety or hush.

I tickled to death you did that chain deal. It's like BFO said the chain is for equipment and the straps for lumber.

I've seen steel bars and rods and even steel coils fall off of semi trucks around here thanks to lumber straps. These guys forget the real name of a full sized strap is still just a lumber strap.

Here at the farm we have a 60 series Chevy 8yd dump to pull around a backhoe on a lowboy. One morning a little old lady just had to pull out in front of the truck. When the boy swerved to miss her the trailer turned over and broke loose from the truck. We had tied the backhoe on with 5/8" chain and the trailer turned over 2 complete turns and landed on it's wheels.

When it came to rest the backhoe was still tied down and the trailer brakes had kept them from running on across the hiway.

My wife and I were right behind the truck so we saw it all. It totaled the tractor and the lowboy but all the people walked around stinking pretty bad but without a scratch.

Even when you use a lumber strap on lumber it will let lumber slip forwards under it on an abrupt stop so I have these guys to put one chain in the middle of the very front bundles

I got some rachet binders. You back up and take that tension out of the front chain then I rachet the chain down like you said from the top across the backend.

I might try some of the rods on the next trailer. On my personal trailer here I went to Fruehauf Trailer and got some of the D rings like the semi flatbed trailers use, and welded them to the frame.

They fold down flat when not in use, but they were pretty expensive. What good is it to save money on something if you might not be here to spend it anyways tho.

I cut holes in the floor out next to the frame rails and welded a piece of 3"X 3" under neath the floor paralell to the frame.

That made my D rings flush with the floor and the trailer frame or my dirt dabber welding would have to break out for the ring to come loose.

Yessir it scares me to death when a weekend cowboy tractor hauling yuppie tries to get up to my winder with straps on his dorf.

When you pull the tractor onto the trailer, the leveraging weight stands a great chance of lifting the rear of the truck off the ground. This will free the truck's front wheels and the trailer wheels to roll.

Extra points are made if you do this all at night and a special bonus if you shout, "Hey y'all, WATCH THIS!" as you start the loading process.

I managed about 6 to 10 feet when I loaded my first tractor but I believe the all time high score goes to a certain Canadian, I know, who went over 50' and at a rather high rate.

Be careful and use straps to save your paint.