New Chainsaw purchase

So, I have done my homework and have narrowed my choices down to Stihl or Husqvarna. I have choosen the 036 pro Stihl with 18-20" bar, or the Husky 362xp same bar size. Price, features, power, weight and balance are all very close. husky wins the warranty side, but Stihl has a lot more selection of parts (chains-bars etc..) locally. Both stores are open weekends, so parts replacement isnt a prob. Stihl has a servicing dealer, Husky sells thru a farm store with a fairly good service dept I trust. The servicing dealer is pushing my thoughts toward the Stihl.

so which saw is most likely going to be around 10 years from now? which saw is going to cut for me 5 hours a day for weeks on end? Which saw is going to be easier to maintain, and after that shiny new bar has worn off its paint, and the powerhead is half covered in sawdust, which saw is gonna cause me problems?

any answers would be a big help, a lot of hard earned dead presidents gotta change hands for one of these saws, I want it to be worth the money.

Thanks again for the input, made the whole experience better knowing I was buying a quality product that was trusted by people who used them.

I agree with the comment about Oregon chain. The saw shop I deal with has stopped selling it. I get Woodsman Pro chains from Bailey's [http://www.baileys-online.com]. They sell to the trade and could not survive if they did not have good products priced right. Send them an e-mail [[email protected]] and request a catalog.

I also agree with the 20" bar. For the kind of work you will be doing you need at least two chains and two bars (or two saws) on site at all times. Why? Because even the best of us will bind the bar at times when we cut up trees (and particularly tops) on the ground. Sometimes, the only way to get free is to cut the bar out. What ever you do, don't try to pull a bound up bar out of a cut. You can break the bar adjustment screw and find yourself shut down for the day. Helps to have a couple of wedges and a sledge hammer handy too.

I have been where you are going. E-mail me if you want the war story!

• Bailey's

Lots of good advice and techniques to fall trees safely. A very good description of the strategy of using your notches and release cuts, where and how.

Good Luck

Kim Hartshorn

good luck

Kim Hartshorn

I would recomend you get the LONGEST bar you can handle. It doesn't even matter that the saw isn't rated for a 30" or even a 36" bar if you're only going to cut with 18" of it. The difference will be that your back won't be doing the reaching. This is a real important item for two reasons.

ONE - You will get more work done because you can do your work standing up. Bending over to cut limbs will cut your effective work day in half and move the stock price of Ben Gay a point or two.

TWO - Your chain will last much longer between sharpening. Longer chain means less cutting per tooth and you'll be cutting more and sharpening less.

Another tip is to order "skip tooth" chain and don't buy Oregon brand chain. Oregon chain stretches terribly and you'll be adjusting your bar several times an hour. Skip tooth chain has an extra spacer link between cutters. The result is that the teeth get a deeper cut and the chain cuts much faster. It's also faster to sharpen. I tried my first skip tooth chain with my new Stihl 029 and will never buy anything else.

But you're right. Skip tooth does cut LOTS faster...and all the loggers use nothing but skip-tooth chain.

But make sure you're careful about you're doing with it.

By the way, a set of those chainsaw safety chaps is a good investment if you're doing a lot of work in the woods.. Steel toe boots are a good thing too.

I was tired, cutting in a brushpile, got off balance and cut through the toe off my boot once (yes, I missed my foot somehow)..

It happened so quick it was over before it began... that incident got my attention right away. The saw cuts leather or flesh like it isn't even there so take care.

bbott

I was put on to the skip tooth by professional loggers in the family. In the Northwest, we have some really deadly trees that like to make widows out of logger's wives. Making a fast back-cut is vital and that's where the skip tooth helps. They do require a bit more care at the tip and they probably aren't a smart choice for a short bar. A long bar is inherently safer from kickback with more mass and redius so they can handle the problem.

Other than OREGON - I buy the Stihl brand because that's the "other brand" at my saw shop, but almost any shop offers a slightly more expensive brand of roll chain. Oregon is the "sale" chain that feeds the "price is everything" customer.

Lots of great comments on this forum. Thanks for keeping me honest on the details.

They went AWAY from skiptooth for safety!

One word makes a big difference sometimes.
My apologies for causing all the excitement !
Shows people are reading anyway....

bbott

They are both good saws... and I don't think you'd really go wrong with either brand.

I own both brands, my Stihl is now 15 years old and has NEVER failed me... but then again, the newer Husky (3 years) never has either !

The fit and finish on the Stihl is better, the Husky is lighter.

The Husky is generally regarded as producing better torque at low RPM but I think the Stihl pulls stronger on the top end and has a 'more pleasant' exaust note.

So. This isn't much help deciding is it ?

I'd get the one that feels better to you.

bbott

Though if you havent seen them...ask the Husky dealer if he can service Jonsereds. I have a Husky 268 and a Jonsered 2083. The Jon model is bigger anyway but every Jonny I've picked up just seems solid and tight and nicely balanced. Also I would seriously consider buying a used bigger saw than a brand new smaller one. I quickly found that when doing lots of cutting it is nice to have a saw that is not going to bog down just before you have released your log.

Bottom line is, six of one and half a dozen of the other on these two brands. I don't think you'll be disappointed either way.