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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Insulation Question

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Allan

12-10-2003 15:51:08




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Hi Guys,

I'm getting ready to throw some insulation at my garage. Is 3 1/2" okay for the roof trusses?

The guy at the lumber yard kinda acted like I should put in more. What do you guys think?

Thanks,

Allan




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JF

12-11-2003 05:03:06




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 Re: Insulation Question in reply to Allan, 12-10-2003 15:51:08  
Put in what you can afford now,blown in ar fiberglass.Then you can always add if you think your heater cant keep up,or just believe you need more.



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snitkawl

12-11-2003 04:10:30




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 Re: Insulation Question in reply to Allan, 12-10-2003 15:51:08  
You can now get fiberglass blown in. I had that done in an apartment I am building(about 700 sq ft) and with outside temps at around 25. a 1500 watt heater kept the inside temp at 60.



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JMS/MN

12-11-2003 00:45:04




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 Re: Insulation Question in reply to Allan, 12-10-2003 15:51:08  
Depends where you live. In central Mn, we use 10-12 inch blown cellulose in the ceilings, 6 inch fiberglas in the walls in new construction. Blown is cheaper per r-factor, fine for flat ceilings, but walls need faced fiberglas to attach it to the walls. Your local builder should be able to advise according to local weather conditions. Insulation is still cheaper than fuel.



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Hal/WA

12-11-2003 00:24:17




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 Re: Insulation Question in reply to Allan, 12-10-2003 15:51:08  
Have you got a drywall ceiling? If so, I would sure consider using the blown in cellulose type insulation. It is cheap and easy to use and works very well in attics. I would put in at least 6 inches, but prefferably 10 or 12.

I like fiberglass batt insulation in walls, as it doesn't settle as bad as loose fill types can. But with conventional trusses, it is a real pain to use batt insulation except between the trusses, as the cross chords of the trusses get in the way if you try to add batts perpendicular to the way the trusses go. The blown in loose fill settles in around the cross chords and gives a lot more effective insulation job.

If you don't have a ceiling yet, I would not suggest insulating until you do. Most fiberglass has paper backing that can catch fire if it is exposed.

Your attic should be ventilated. It is probably a little late for a ridge vent, but adding some of those vents like are on the main part of the house would not be that hard. Venting the hot attic air will make your garage much cooler in the summer and will make your composition roofing last longer, as well as removing any attic moisture.

Good luck, it looks like a nice place.

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wdTom

12-10-2003 18:30:20




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 Re: Insulation Question in reply to Allan, 12-10-2003 15:51:08  
Insulation is money in the bank. It willmake your space easier to hear and take less energy/money/time to heat. I would put at LEAST 6 inches in the walls. Faten out the studs if necessary. You don't want to compress the insulation, it won't work as well. In the celing I would put 3 1/2" between the trusses, then 9" bats over them running the other way. You should have atic ventilation, soffit vents, ridge vents, gable end vent (s). At least two of thesethree types, to get some flow. You may be able co connect the atic space to the house atic space and get some flow through this way. Now inside, if you want to be really good, put up a 6 mil plastic vapor barrier. Keeps out any drafts and keeps moisture from normal living activities from getting into the insulation and condensing into ice which will destroy your insulation, cause rot and mold etc. Now put up something to protect the vapor barrier and insulation, plywood, or whatever you want. If you want to do a little extra, don't cut holes in your vapor barrier for electric swithces, outlets, etc. Run the wires on the surface in conduit or wire ways. This is how to do it right. If you do it will seem like a lot of work until you find out how easy it is to heat. And how little you have to do to heat your space. Same applies to houses, any space you want to be comfortable.

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Butcher

12-10-2003 17:26:02




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 Re: Insulation Question in reply to Allan, 12-10-2003 15:51:08  
Are you going to heat the garage? Even if you are not I would put in 10 to 12 inch's of blown cellulos. If you are planning on heat I would use more. None of my bussines but, from your pic I did not see any roof vents on the garage. Attic heat is a good way to shorten the life of your shingles.
It sure does look like pretty country were your at.



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Allan

12-10-2003 17:53:45




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 Re: Re: Insulation Question in reply to Butcher, 12-10-2003 17:26:02  
Hi Butcher,

I'll only have the heat on when I'm working out there. The only vents I know of are the soffets.

Pretty and steep here in NE. LOL

Thanks,

Allan



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arthur

12-10-2003 20:12:04




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 Re: Re: Re: Insulation Question in reply to Allan, 12-10-2003 17:53:45  
roof vents near the ridge are nessary to keep the moisture from freezing on the under side of roof.
the air will come at the sophet and go out the top vents there is a ridge vent made also it works well use pleanty of insulation.



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Mac

12-10-2003 16:11:00




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 Re: Insulation Question in reply to Allan, 12-10-2003 15:51:08  
I'd go the extra few bucks and use 6". I put the batts rather than the role in mine.



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Brian G. NY

12-11-2003 19:17:11




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 Re: Re: Insulation Question in reply to Mac, 12-10-2003 16:11:00  
I agree with the comment that "Insulation is money in the bank". I have a one car UNHEATED garage attached to the west side of my house. The contractor put 12" bat fibreglass in the ceiling and 6" roll fibreglass in the walls. Both ceiling and walls are sheetrocked. Even with the prevailing winds from the west, there has never been a time when the temp. in the garage has dropped below freezing in the past 8 winters that we've lived here. It generally runs near 40 deg. in the dead of winter. I live in upstate NY about 50 miles west of Albany and it gets purty darn cold here! One down side, the salt accumulated on the underside of my wife's Explorer never stops working at that temp. and we've got the rust to prove it.

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