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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Need help- What tool- 1/2 thick steel

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K.B.

11-26-2003 15:42:28




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We're trying to put loader mounts from a IH 706 onto a IH 826. This requires that two relief holes be drilled in each mount, to clear the heads of the engine mount bolts, so the mounts fit right up to the tractor's frame rails. The local welding shop screwed up, and drilled the holes about 3/8" to the rear of where they should be. The shop is closed until Monday, and we need this loader this weekend. I'm trying to think of a way to slot out the holes 3/8". Problem is these mounts are 1/2" thick. Would a die grinder work?

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KX

11-27-2003 13:02:46




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 Re: Need help- What tool- 1/2 thick steel in reply to K.B., 11-26-2003 15:42:28  
DL had the best advice but if this situation were in my shop, I am reaching for the torch.



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mj

11-28-2003 12:25:20




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 Re: Re: Need help- What tool- 1/2 thick steel in reply to KX, 11-27-2003 13:02:46  
Ditto on the 'hot-saw'! :-)



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buck

11-26-2003 18:29:39




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 Re: Need help- What tool- 1/2 thick steel in reply to K.B., 11-26-2003 15:42:28  

Your die grinder will get the job done-may take a little time. Easy on the stones and let the tool do the work.



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D.L.

11-26-2003 18:27:02




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 Re: Need help- What tool- 1/2 thick steel in reply to K.B., 11-26-2003 15:42:28  
K.B. You didn't say what diameter the holes are, but here's what will work, with a minimum of effort (if the holes are a reasonable size). If you have a drill press, just get an end mill of the correct diameter, chuck it up in your drill press, and drill the hole in the correct place. Since the end mill has a flat bottom, you can put the hole where ever you want it (if you're drilling in the center of a piece with no pilot hole, ensure you have an end mill that is "center cutting" meaning it will cut without a pilot hole) For steel, you'll want a 4 flute end mill... high speed steel will work for what you're doing. You'll need to clamp the workpiece to your drill press table (so it won't kick out when you plunge the cutter into the metal) and you MUST use the correct RPM (a 1" cutter (HSS) will turn at approx 400 RPM, a 1/2" cutter will turn at 800 RPM, a 3/8" cutter will turn at 1200 RPM, a 1/4" cutter will turn at 1600 RPM, you get the idea) These values (RPM) are theoretical, but should get you in the ball park... if you get excessive vibration, adjust rpm up or down a bit to get a clean cut. ALSO... sometimes the cutting tool will want to "auto feed" when you start putting down pressure on the quill of the drill press... make sure you've got a good hold on it. You'll easily be able to do this job, just be aware of the forces acting on the tool and you'll be fine. I'm a machinist and do cuts like this all the time. A milling machine is nothing more than a really big drill press with a few more bells and whistles... many times I feed a cutter into the work just as you would on a drill press... just requires a little extra attention. If you're having trouble finding an end mill, you might want to look at router bits (for wood). We use them in a pinch. The carbide ones are a bit softer grade of carbide than we commonly use for steel, but they work... might dull a little more quickly, but they'll get you through in a pinch. As far as spiral cutters, many are sold as router bits, but are actually end mills (used commonly in the machining industry)... especially the solid carbide ones. I know it sounds kind of strange using a (wood) router bit to cut steel... but what are regular drill bits made from??? High speed (or high carbon) steel!!! The only difference is that some router bits are two flute instead of four flute... just means you need to be even MORE aware of RPM and feed rates (the rate you feed the cutter into the work piece) HOPE THIS HELPS GET YOU OUT OF A BIND!!!

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Heat Houser

11-26-2003 17:30:13




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 Re: Need help- What tool- 1/2 thick steel in reply to K.B., 11-26-2003 15:42:28  
You might consider using a hole saw to change the position of the holes. To do this, you will need to tack weld (or clamp) a piece of plate steel over the hole to be elongated. You can then saw the hole by starting the pilot hole from the added plate side and as soon as the pilot hole is established, flip the piece over and saw out the 3/8 chunk you need for clearance using the pilot hole in the added plate. You will need a hole saw that is made to saw steel and a slow turning drill to drive it. If you have a high speed drill, you heat and then take the temper out of the saw's teeth. I have sawed through 1 inch steel plate using a hole saw and discovered the need for a slow turning drill the hard way.

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Nebraska Cowman

11-26-2003 17:16:08




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 Re: Need help- What tool- 1/2 thick steel in reply to K.B., 11-26-2003 15:42:28  
I'd probibly go to work with a large rattail file; yes it will take a little time but it can be done and what's time anyway but to use?



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jailkeeper

11-26-2003 16:17:48




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 Re: Need help- What tool- 1/2 thick steel in reply to K.B., 11-26-2003 15:42:28  
If it was mine, I'd use a torch and burn it out. Use some thick washers and put it together. If you have to, you could do like Willie said and drill a hole in a scrap piece and weld it in place after you have everything mounted and tightened up.



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willie

11-26-2003 15:58:11




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 Re: Need help- What tool- 1/2 thick steel in reply to K.B., 11-26-2003 15:42:28  
would it be possible for you to get a piece of scrap steel (at least 3/8 thick) drill the size hole you need and clamp it in place. You should be able to use it as a guide for the bit and drill a whole next to the wrong one? Dress up the slot with a file. You could also tap the wrong hole, put in a bolt and cut it off. Drill a new hole were you want it.



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Alvin n Ms.

11-27-2003 07:16:44




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 Re: Re: Need help- What tool- 1/2 thick steel in reply to willie, 11-26-2003 15:58:11  
KB,cutting the bolt off sounds like the quickest way with min. tools ect. A great idea, says I.



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