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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

chainsaw bar chains

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Fred

11-23-2003 15:19:34




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What kind of bar & chains hold up the best, oregon ok? Have a 85'ish poulon 3400 countervibe.
Came with a 20" bar & chain, the bar is worn somewhat( maybe a little flat, worn down but the sprocket at the tip still turns). OK to get another chain for it? (will it ruin a new chain?)




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jim

11-25-2003 11:34:31




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 Re: chainsaw bar chains in reply to Fred, 11-23-2003 15:19:34  
I have not read all the responses as I have not had time, but if one follows these posts know that I am not a fan of Stihl, but their chain is the best I have ever sold or used. it holds an edge longer than anything I have ever used. The second best I have used is Carlton chain, again, superior for holding an edge. At the bottom is Oregon chain, I did read a post about chain being a 1.00 per bar inch, I have to sell Oregon for that, just am not a Stihl dealer or found a reliable source for Carlton. Just my 2cents worth. If you are buying any chain for .50 per bar inch, then you are probably buying Oregons cheap black chain. Oregon chrome costs me more than that as a dealer.

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John in MA

11-23-2003 16:58:12




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 Re: chainsaw bar chains in reply to Fred, 11-23-2003 15:19:34  
Most pros use Stihl (best in my opinion), Oregon, or Carlton. There are a other good brands but there are the popular ones. You can get chain in safety chipper (round tooth with "bumper links"), standard chipper (without bumpers), and chisel (square tooth). Chipper lasts longer between filings, chisel cuts faster.

You should have a reputable saw shop look at the bar. They can be ground, trued, and gapped if it's not too bad, but I can tell you from here. When you replace a chain you also want to replace the drive sprocket on the saw. A worn sprocket will quickly wear a new chain.

By the way, don't buy your chain out of a box. Go to a saw shop and have them spin loops for you. It's cheaper and you have more of a choice. Bring the old chain and saw in with you, since there are many variations on chain pitch, gauge, drive lengths, cutter type, etc.

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jokers

11-24-2003 13:52:46




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 Re: Re: chainsaw bar chains in reply to John in MA, 11-23-2003 16:58:12  
Hey John, how much of that Stihl chain do you use? I agree that the chrome is slightly thicker giving an edge that holds slightly longer, but when you consider the value in a chain loop, the Stihl chain doesn`t fair well at what the average Stihl dealer sells it for. It seems though most Stihl dealers I`ve shopped have felt like they were giving you their firstborn if you get the chain for $1/bar inch, whereas Oregon and Stihl normally sell for far below that price, often approaching $.50/bar inch. I`ll take two or maybe three Oregons to one Stihl any day. Besides, you know it`s always good practice to start with two or three new loops and a new sprocket, rotating them as they dull, letting everything wear together.

The places I normally buy my chain are Jeff Sikkema at www.snssawshop.com , www.commercialcutters.com , or www.baileys-online.com . Sorry I can`t post all of these urls as links, so you fellas will have to just copy and paste them.

Russ

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treeboy

11-23-2003 16:58:05




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 Re: chainsaw bar chains in reply to Fred, 11-23-2003 15:19:34  
fred, the drive sproket which propels the chain is what will wear a new chain fast. check & see how much wear is on this sproket, is it grovedout below its intended use..bars usually get a burr along the edge and this can be filed or ground off(easy does it) the second thing that really wears a chain is trying to cut when it's DULL, if your planning oncuttting for any length of time or cannot keeep the end of your saw out of the soil get 1 or2 extrachains sso ya have a sharp one
MOST landowners need to use round top chain (stays sharp better & easier to hand file)any brand will work, if kickback is a problem buy antikickback chain$$ you might want to get your chain at a local shop so you get the correct chain, then mail order once ya got the facts also clean the grove in the bar with a puddyknife,makes room for baroil..good cutting

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John in MA

11-23-2003 17:00:07




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 Re: Re: chainsaw bar chains in reply to treeboy, 11-23-2003 16:58:05  
Round tooth (chipper) is just as easy to file as square tooth (chisel) if you're using a round file. The trick is if you want to square file or grinder a chisel chain.



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RJ-AZ

11-23-2003 15:29:34




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 Re: chainsaw bar chains in reply to Fred, 11-23-2003 15:19:34  
Some saw shops have a grinder to recondition a bar. I dress mine with a flat file and get around five years of cutting per bar. As long as there are no gouges or chips out of the rail you should be able to run a new chain with no problem. I carry five loops of sharp chain in my saw box and can cut all day cutting mesquite.



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Fred

11-23-2003 15:40:59




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 Re: Re: chainsaw bar chains in reply to RJ-AZ, 11-23-2003 15:29:34  
Thanx for the info, do you know what brands of chain hold up the best and which to stay away from?



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RJ-AZ

11-23-2003 19:47:23




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 Re: Re: Re: chainsaw bar chains in reply to Fred, 11-23-2003 15:40:59  
I am not sure of the brand but a local cycle shop sold me some several years ago that din't hold up well at all. My local saw shop carries bulk Oregon chain and I use an Oregon grinder to sharpen my chain with and it works the best for me. I use 3/8 pitch .050 full chisel chain.



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moline

11-23-2003 17:54:08




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 Re: Re: Re: chainsaw bar chains in reply to Fred, 11-23-2003 15:40:59  
Kinda OT,but can you still buy Homelite chain somewhere??I get excellent service out of the raker 3 chain;but there are no more Homelite dealers in my area.I bought a new Stihl 021 and am very happy with it;but I would like to use my Homelite super 2 for trimming and small jobs.



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John in MA

11-23-2003 21:25:10




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: chainsaw bar chains in reply to moline, 11-23-2003 17:54:08  
Homelite was sold from Textron to John Deer, then from John Deere to TechTronics (Taiwanese parent to Ryobi). The old Raker3 stuff's been out of production for years. Get a loop of Stihl non-safety for your Super2.



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Iowadave

11-24-2003 08:46:56




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: chainsaw bar chains in reply to John in MA, 11-23-2003 21:25:10  
Slightly OT: I've been sawing for a number of years, just trying to stay ahead of the elms that die each year on the homestead. I've never used anything but safety chain, just 'cuz it was easy to grab off the shelf at Home Depot. I'm not happy with the amount of sharpening the chains require. How much more kickback am I likely to experience with non-safety chain? I wear all apropriate saftey equipment.

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John in MA

11-24-2003 10:23:54




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: chainsaw bar chains in reply to Iowadave, 11-24-2003 08:46:56  
Real chain will need just as much sharpening (more if you go with full chisel), but it'll cut a lot faster and will be less likely to load up with wood fibers. Stihl brand chain is slightly harder and would probably last a little longer. After how many cuts do you file your chain?

The kickback force with safety chain is a little more. However, it doesn't really matter if you're a safe sawyer. Avoid kickback situations and use the correct technique and you're all set.

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Iowadave

11-24-2003 14:24:53




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: chainsaw bar chains in reply to John in MA, 11-24-2003 10:23:54  
I'll have to start counting! About the best I can say now is one large dead and dry Elm felled and cut into 16" logs and the chain seems overdue for a sharpening.



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bob

11-24-2003 18:49:28




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: chainsaw bar chai in reply to Iowadave, 11-24-2003 14:24:53  
dry Elm is one of the hardest woods. I used to saw it on the sawmill & the sparks flew! Dead on the stump several years & elm is a challenge for any cutting tool, so you're cutting the toughest wood around. Makes really pretty lumber tho. Fooled an old woodworker who thought it was Walnut.



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