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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Metal cutting band saw

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Oregonfarmer

10-31-2003 18:56:42




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I wanted to upgrade my metal cutting ability and bought a used "Southern" saw. It has 3 speeds and I purchased a new blade new Bi-metal blade with 8 TIP (recomended by the supplier). The problem is that the saw will bog down and stop while cutting flat stock. I did speed it up and that helped. Should I have to run the fastest speed to cut mild steel? It has a hydraulic cylinder for the feed that seems hard to adjust.

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Robert in W. Mi

11-01-2003 08:23:14




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 Re: Metal cutting band saw in reply to Oregonfarmer, 10-31-2003 18:56:42  
Could it be that your new saw draws more amps than the wireing to it can handle??? Is it on a long extension cord?

I sold a table saw to a friend one time, and later he accused me of cheating him!! He said the motor was shot, and had no power!! I asked to see it, and first thing i noticed was the long extension cord coiled next to the saw. I turned the saw on and it took a while to get up to speed, so i asked if we could move the saw over by the wall, and plug it in direct!! Once done, it came right up to speed and cut well.

Robert

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SamH

11-01-2003 06:07:09




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 Re: Metal cutting band saw in reply to Oregonfarmer, 10-31-2003 18:56:42  
I know this is probably going to sound complicated, but it's really not.

Recommended bandsaw speeds as well as most other metal cutting speeds are given in feet per minute (FPM) rather than RPM's. Based on Machinery's handbook recommedations, a bandsaw should cut mild steel OK between 300-400 FPM. To find out what your saw is capable of in fpm, measure the circumference of the blade in feet. Then make a mark on the blade and find a reference point on the saw. Turn the saw on and count the number of times the blade makes a complete revolution in one minute.

You don't say if the saw is a horizontal or vertical. If it's a vertical, forget the cylinder and push the piece through USING A PIECE OF WOOD or something like that so you don't saw your hand. If it's a horizontal, the feed more than likely depends on the weight of the saw to feed through the metal and the cylinder just holds it back. The more you open the cylinder, the faster it drops. On a horizontal saw, unless you are sawing a square part, laying the piece down will work better than standing it up because more teeth are engaged at any given time.

The number of teeth per inch is called the pitch. One last thing, the blade will last longer if you use a cutting fluid, preferrable water based. Good luck and be careful.

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Slowpoke

10-31-2003 22:53:14




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 Re: Metal cutting band saw in reply to Oregonfarmer, 10-31-2003 18:56:42  
The recommended number of teeth to have in contact with the work is 3. Four is better. 8 teeth/inch is too course for anything less than 3/8" solid stock. The teeth will break out on thinner metal and you can kiss the blade goodby the first time it happens. I would have 3 blades on hand: 14tpi, 18tpi, & 24tpi. That range will allow you to cut to at least 1" stock, and unless you are on a production basis, the speed will be adequate.
If the blade is slipping, try putting more tension on it at the idle wheel.
It could be that the motor belt is slipping also.
Is it the original motor or has it been changed to a smaller motor?
The blade speed depends on the hardness of the metal being cut. The harder the material, the slower the speed. Go to the library and get a book on machine practice. It will have charts on metal cutting.
Possibly the hydraulic cylinder is worn out.

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Slowpoke

10-31-2003 22:49:19




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 Re: Metal cutting band saw in reply to Oregonfarmer, 10-31-2003 18:56:42  
The recommended number of teeth to have in contact with the work is 3. Four is better. 8 teeth/inch is too course for anything less than 3/8" solid stock. The teeth will break out on thinner metal and you can kiss the blade goodby the first time it happens. I would have 3 blades on hand: 14tpi, 18tpi, & 24tpi. That range will allow you to cut to at least 1" stock, and unless you are on a production basis, the speed will be adequate.
If the blade is slipping, try putting more tension on it at the idle wheel.
It could be that the motor belt is slipping also.
Is it the original motor or has it been changed to a smaller motor?
The blade speed depends on the hardness of the metal being cut. The harder the material, the slower the speed. Go to the library and get a book on machine practice. It will have charts on metal cutting.

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