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Pole Barn Lessons

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RP

10-05-2003 19:41:54




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I'm wanting to build a Pole Barn in Missouri for storage and a shop/garage. I'm planning 30'X40'X10' and I'm wondering what advice y'all might have to offer. What do I need to know? What would you have done different?




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pjw

10-08-2003 18:00:59




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
If you go with pole construction make sure you buy .6 retention womanized poles. Many lumber yards sell the .4 retention for barn construction and it is not rated for underground wood foundations. The .6 retention is rated for over 50 years. The .4 is about 20 years



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Jerry A.

10-07-2003 06:38:20




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
Don't know if you have the Menards chain of home improvement stores down in MO (we have them up here in IA, IL and IN). Menards puts out a little booklet of about 15 pages (don't have the booklet here in front of me) that does a good job of giving tips on how to construct a decent pole barn. You can get one for free in the store (usually located by the display of their pole barn building supplies).

Good luck. Build it BIG...you won't regret it!

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Rick(MN)

10-06-2003 19:18:37




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
Lots of good ideas here,only 2 things I would add. If I were to build again, I would use the laminated poles. When using that many poles, the odds of them all staying straight over time is a long shot at best. Also, either put your walk-in door at the gable end or budget for a roof arrangement over he door. (cant think of the correct term here to save my life, ha,ha) Good Luck, Rick



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RP

10-06-2003 18:59:35




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
Wow! Thanks for all the ideas, suggestions and pictures. It'll be a few miles north of Rolla MO. I plan to do the construction myself with some help on the concrete.

I like the idea of the lean-to and the in-floor heat. I also appreciate the "too-small later" thoughts and the height issue. Now I'm leaning toward 12-14' height, 1 overhead and 1 sliding door and tubing for a future wood-hydro system and a flue for a potbelly stove to start off.

Are there any rules of thumb for post spacing (8'-10'-12') and would it help to put tyvek under the metal skin?

Thanks for all the help.

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Mike Behr

10-06-2003 17:05:10




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
Just built a 60X120X16 building, half for a shop. Went with block foundation with footings rather than pole structure. Only a couple $000 more. Pole structures have a tendency to get a little "wobbly" as time goes on. I share the building with another guy who uses the nonshop part for storage of his and his friends and relatives' toys. He first thought maybe 60X120X16 was too big. I told him not to worry: "Build it and they will come." I was right. Everybody has something looking for a home it seems.

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RJ-AZ

10-06-2003 16:58:16




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
I went with steel, have you priced a 2x4 lately?
I built a 22x24 with a single slope roof that I can double soon. Even then it will be too small. I am also using a 8x20 steel shipping container for secure tool storage. I deigned and welded my own structure and saved money there. Check out Muellerinc.com for steel building supplies.



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John A

10-06-2003 20:56:22




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 Re: Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RJ-AZ, 10-06-2003 16:58:16  
RP, RJ-Az is right about Muller Inc. they make one of the best buildings out there. Muller is mainly here in Texas but have other outlets too. Just got a quote for a 40x60x15. Went 15 high so in the future when a 30 ft wing is added. the lowest point is about 12ft. Still high enough for a 100 hp tractor with an exhaust extension to clear the roof ,gutter,crossbeam. + or - $13,500 weld-up, $15,000 bolt-up my cost. Not including base, concrete, & erection.

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the tractor vet

10-06-2003 13:56:12




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
Make it bigger and taller as ya never build them big enough and don't skimp on the thickness of the floor and put in a drain with a good sloop to the drain. And make sure ya put in good lighting and don't use a sliding door this comes from past mistakes that we did.



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Mark

10-06-2003 13:28:33




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
RP If your interested in getting a price on a prefab metal building post a reply or email me. Or if anyone else out there is. I can get you in touch with a manufacturer I have dealt with in the past from PA. They do really excellant work... Thats if you don't want to do it yourself. If you do then you'll need to stick with wood I assume!

Only other advice it make it larger!!!! You'll never have enough room

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Jimmy King

10-06-2003 11:12:48




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
I am from Mo. [Ash Grove] also my shop is 30 x 42 x 12 with an 16ft. over head door 12 high, tight fit with just 12ft. side walls walk in doors on each end. All steel only have the ceiling ins., walls too would be much better. Have batt ins. on ceiling not the way to go birds like to use it for nest some where else. Very hard to keep them out of any building. For storage I have a 40 x 72 x 12 steel truss wood frame shed sliding doors on both ends 12ft. four 12 bays on east side open. cramed full!!!

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paul

10-06-2003 09:52:19




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
In 2 years, it will be too small, too low, and the door will be too narrow. Happens every time.

--->Paul



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TimV

10-06-2003 07:20:30




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
RP: Remember that garages come in one size--too small! It's a lot easier (and cheaper) to build larger to begin with than it is to add on later. When I bought my place 4 years ago it came with a 25 x 32 2-stall garage. I added a lean-to on the side two summers ago and another on the back this summer. Even then, I could stand more room..... In-floor heating is expensive to install, but provides steadier, "warmer" heat, particularly if the doors are opening and closing a lot. Put lots of anchors in your floor for anything you might want to install later. I would go with a 200-amp electrical service--it's handy to have the capacity, even if it's not immediately needed. Depending on what you plan on storing, load-bearing trusses with a loft make for an excellent way to get a lot of the "small stuff" off from the main floor. Also, figure out ahead of time how much you want to heat, and how much can go for "cold storage". This can save a lot of money, both in up-front installation costs, and in heating costs over time. Finally, make sure to plan for adequate lighting--it's frustrating to have to drag a trouble light everywhere in order to be able to see.

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wolfe in tx

10-06-2003 07:17:40




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
The price of lumber these days. I made mine out of steel the only to go. 60x80x10 i wish it was 12 high three rollup doors and a loading dock 2ft. high. love it. it started out 20x20 glad i made it bigger it full need more room.It cost me 23,720$ i did all the work including concret. build it like you want it hard to change when it build. good luck wolfe



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Richard Fazio

10-06-2003 06:46:19




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
Bigger, I know it's expensive, but you'll wish you had later. Mine isn't big enough either.



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ShepFL

10-07-2003 06:15:55




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 Re: Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to Richard Fazio, 10-06-2003 06:46:19  
Nice Barn!!
Thanks for sharing the pics.



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Dave in GA

10-06-2003 06:03:29




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
A search through the archives will yield a wealth of information. Just type in pole barn or garage. I'm having a 48 x 24 x10 garage being built now and it's 85% complete. Many of the specs given to the builder were recommendations from the archives. The floor is very important, especially if you go with concrete. Doors should be wide enough and tall enough to handle anything that may need to go through them in the future. I opted for the manual roll-up doors and am pleased with them.

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Steve from MO

10-06-2003 05:54:33




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
Where in MO? I am in Jefferson City.

You will likely find that parts/equipment for 200 amp service is cheaper than 150 since 200 is the current house standard.

I got a quote for a 20x40 with a 10 x 20 lean-to at $5600. Don't have the money to spend at this time...



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ShepFL

10-06-2003 05:31:15




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
I would go taller. Not sure if you are using metal or wood. I would suggest a 3 ft. stem wall and build atop that.

As everyone else says bigger is better in this case. My shop is 30 x 60 x 14 with 10x12 manual roll up doors. I would have like to gone bigger but could not afford it. I punted and will be adding a lean to store my implements outside.

Link is to pics is over yr. old.

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rustyfarmall

10-06-2003 05:08:29




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
I would strongly consider in-floor radiant heat, I didn't do this in my shop, sure wish I had now.



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Indydirtfarmer

10-06-2003 04:37:03




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
As I was building my "shop", I found out that I could go higher with the walls, for less than bigger at the foundation. I did 30'X60'X14', and then built a "loft" in 1/3 of it. I got a tremendous amount of storage area, for a lot less than the cost of a "bigger" building. Can't have "too many doors". Lots of lights. BIG electric service. Do what you want, the FIRST TIME. You most likely won't build another one, if this isn't right. I did a 4' overhang, on one end, over the "main" garage door. Keeps the rain out when the door is open. And finally, I built a "lean-to" type shed on one side. That lets me keep things outside, so that the inside isn't so packed.

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Rauville

10-06-2003 04:29:50




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
Go higher....You'll be amazed as to how many things will not fit in a building with 10' sidewalls (which translates to about 8'-9" clear ceiling height in most building systems).



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GG

10-06-2003 04:24:49




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
Just realize that a SQUARE building will have more square feet then then rectangular building with the same perimeter dimensions.



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joe

10-06-2003 19:04:30




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 Re: Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to GG, 10-06-2003 04:24:49  
what????



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GG

10-06-2003 19:24:54




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 Re: Re: Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to joe, 10-06-2003 19:04:30  
I'll try to explain--- Just for an example; draw a rectangle representing a building 40'x20'. This would be 800 sq.ft. with 120 foot around perimeter. NOW, take 10' from each 40' wall and add to each 20' wall. This will result in a 30'x30' which will be 900sq.ft. and you will still have 120' peremeter but 100 more sq.ft. Hope this is clear enough.



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joe

10-06-2003 19:53:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to GG, 10-06-2003 19:24:54  
gg,thanks for explaining. it seems kind of weird,though.bet i can make some money at work with this!



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GG

10-06-2003 20:47:24




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to joe, 10-06-2003 19:53:41  
The reason is-- A circle has more area then any other figure. A square is closer to a circle then is a rectangle.



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GG

10-06-2003 20:42:23




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to joe, 10-06-2003 19:53:41  
The reason is-- A CIRCLE has more area then any other figure. A SQUARE is closer to a circle then is a rectangle.



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KURT (mi)

10-06-2003 04:13:38




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
I build my own home 3 years ago and I went with an attached 22X50 garage, I wish I would have went with a standard 22X22 garage and a detached barn. with that said I would recomend a concrete floor, not gravel or dirt. and I would go with putting a door header at both ends of the barn so that you could drive a large machine, or boat or whatever all the way through. also, lots of windows, minimum of 150amp service, wood stove. lots to mention but little time.

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tiny

10-06-2003 03:13:59




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 Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to RP, 10-05-2003 19:41:54  
Go bigger it wont be enough



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Arnie

10-06-2003 05:23:24




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 Re: Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to tiny, 10-06-2003 03:13:59  
The building always looks very big before you put stuff in it. Walls seem to come in very fast. If I was to build one again I would go higher for loft storage a lean too on side enough to nose in tractors etc. 150 amp service and a different type lighting system (floursent isnt good in winter unless the building is heated all the time) radiant heat and a good old woo0d stove just for sitting around Good Luck with your building

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john

10-06-2003 15:22:26




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 Re: Re: Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to Arnie, 10-06-2003 05:23:24  
if you put sliding doors on, put them on the INSIDE. this way you will still be able to open them easily when it snows.

big electrical service is a must. 150 amps is alot. 60 amps is good if you will be using general tools such as a compressor. if you are welding, you may want more. my pole barn only has 30 amp service from the house. i have 1200 watts of incandescent lights, but i usually only use the power for a compressor and block heater (not at the same time).

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Robert in W. Mi

10-06-2003 18:24:32




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to john, 10-06-2003 15:22:26  
third party image

Put the sliders on the inside???? Man, that's sure going to waste a lot of usable wall space makeing room for those sliders!! My walls have "stuff" hanging all over them, right out there where i can easily find it!! I wouldn't want to have to put it any other place!!

Like everyone else i wish i had gone bigger in the beginning, as it's always cheaper to do so, and a min. of 12' high on the walls!! (which mine has)

Robert

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John

10-07-2003 10:24:59




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Pole Barn Lessons in reply to Robert in W. Mi, 10-06-2003 18:24:32  
actually, having the sliders on the inside doesn't waste as much space as you would think. I only hang stuff on the side walls, not the front or back, so it's not a big problem for me. I knew i didn't want the sliders on the outside, becaus the snow and ice gets in the way of opening the door. on my other barn, if i don't open the door for a while the ice builds up in the way of opening it and its a pain to dig the ice and snow out. i would rather live with reduced wall space than always be digging out the door.

Also, install SKYLIGHTS. very important. my builder did not want to install them, because he thought the snow might be too heavy. I told them to put in skylights (fiberglass roof panels) and iff they broke i would pay him to come back and put steel in it's place. 3 years later and after having over 4 feet of snow on them, they are still there. they brighten up the builing more than the electric lights and don't cost anything to run. i also had a 2 foot tall fiberglass panel installed across the top of one wall to let in light when the snow is covering the skylights. if i were to do it agian, i would put this panel around all of the walls

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