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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

New Compressor - question

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Chuck, WA

09-18-2003 07:01:44




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I just bought my first air compressor a few months ago, It's a 6 hp, 150 PSI, 30 gal vertical tank, oil free Sears that is, in fact, currently on sale. At the present, I don't use it very often - maybe once or twice a week - but with various projects coming along, will be using it more.

My question is, between uses, what's the best way to leave it: shut it off and bleed off the pressure, shut it off and leave it pressurized, or leave it on to maintain pressure? I'd like to do whatever I can to keep it in good condition.

Our climate is dry, but even so, I notice that when I bleed it using the draincock at the bottom, a little moisture comes out. I have been bleeding it unless I know I'll be using it the next day. I bleed with the pressure relief until pressure gets low enough that it won't stay open without holding it open, then open the draincock. The moisture that comes out isn't much, but enough to leave a damp spot under the draincock where the air hits the concrete floor, and to tell that it is just a little discolored form light rust? Even though it's "oilfree" should I be oiling somewhere?

Another comment and question - I have noticed that when I open the draincock, as the pressure gets down, it sputters, and somtimes stops bleeding without bleeding all the way down. Yesterday when I used it, I noticed that when I closed the draincock, it didn't shut all the way off. When I finished the work I was using it for, I pulled the draincock and noticed that the o-ring on it was chewed up - probably what was sputtering and probably the cause of the leak that wouldn't let me shut it off all the way. Is this a result of opening and closing it too often? I'll be getting a new o-ring, or if I can't find one, a new draincock, but I'd also like to prevent this from happening again.

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Bus Driver

09-19-2003 05:03:06




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 Re: New Compressor - question in reply to Chuck, WA, 09-18-2003 07:01:44  
I think it would be a big mistake, possibly even destructive, to introduce any liquids into the intake of an oilless compressor. Might damage some of the components by dissolving them.



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Roger

09-18-2003 19:06:36




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 Re: New Compressor - question in reply to Chuck, WA, 09-18-2003 07:01:44  
There is no provision for oiling on any of these machines. Bearings are sealed. Bronzish-teflon thingie for a piston ring. Definitely DO NOT put alcohol into the intake. Most all of these machines,and many more expensive ones, use totally useless drain cocks with pressed steel twist handles that either strip off the spindle, or they get a chunk of rust stuck in them so the seat gets nicked and they never seat properly again. We used to joke that they were one-use valves. If it is really a problem, unscrew it from the bottom of the tank, put in a 1/4" NPT (or whatever the thread size is) 90 degree "street elbow" (female threads on one end, male threads on the other). Thread a 4" or 6" pipe nipple into it, and then put a proper 1/4" brass valve on it. You can put another street elbow in the valve if you want to direct the water downward from the valve. Putting in another drain cock like the one it came with won't solve anything.

The sputtering you are experiencing when you drain down the tank is from ice formation. Expanding gas cools very rapidly. This freezes the moisture in the air and blocks off the valve until ambient air temperature warms the valve enough to melt the ice again. We used to sell electrical cabinet coolers that used this principle of expanding gases to produce chilling air blasts down to -40C.

Your tank will rust. Nothing you can do about it.

Draining between uses is unnecessary. Compressed air is more expensive than natural gas. You are paying money to pressurize that tank, why waste it? I wouldn't recommend pulling the safety valve either. They aren't meant for repeated cycling, and the spring will probably sack out and start to pop prematurely.

Have fun with whatever you use it for.

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Chuck, WA

09-22-2003 09:23:01




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 Re: Re: New Compressor - question in reply to Roger, 09-18-2003 19:06:36  
Roger...Thanks! I chose to not put any alcohol or oil in. I suspect you're right about it rusting and can't do anything about it.

I did find o-rings at the local True Value hardware at 39-cents each, so bought one and a couple of spares. That will do for now, but when/if it happens again, I like your idea about replacing with a "real" valve. For starters, a street-ell and extension nipple will save having to get down on the floor to reach under it to open the drain cock - I'm no fossil yet, but getting closer every day, and my knees thank you for the suggestion! :)

This drain cock has a knurled not wing "knob." I would probably have gone ahead and bought a replacement without an o-ring, but in fact, didn't get down to the air tool shop where I deal, so settled for the o-rings. Now I won't go that route, but will try your suggestion when the time comes.

Hadn't thought about not using the pressure relief valve to bleed it. Makes sense, but if so, they really shouldn't put that handy little ring on it - makes it seem obvious as the thing to do. You are also right about bleeding every time making for expensive air - will leave it pressureized in the future. In fact, I'm having some serious thoughts about making a semi-permanent place for it and plumbing across the side of the barn where I have my workbench, but allowing for easy disconnect to keep it portable. Maybe even run a connection out the side under my shed where I keep the tractor and implements.

Interesting comment on the ice as causing the sputtering - should have thought of that myself.

Thanks again for the good post.

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Chuck, WA

09-18-2003 15:44:10




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 Re: New Compressor - question in reply to Chuck, WA, 09-18-2003 07:01:44  
Thanks all for comments. A non-oil free compressor isn't an option since I have this one and don't intend to trade it off now. I think I'll do the following. I will look for a replacement draincock without an o-ring. Then, I'll just plan on bleeding enough to get out any condensation out but not bleed all pressure unless I know it will be a long time before I use it again. I use it almost every weekend, and sometimes in between, so a week is the longest it geos between uses.

Thanks again!

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Mike M

09-18-2003 11:03:22




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 Re: New Compressor - question in reply to Chuck, WA, 09-18-2003 07:01:44  
I would not drain all of the air out just drain off the water at the bottom. I shut off the power
on mine when not attended turn it on when needed
my tank holds air in for a long time I would think that pumping up an empty tank all the time would just be causing more wear and tear from running that many more hours.



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JD-Tractor

09-18-2003 11:14:16




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 Re: Re: New Compressor - question in reply to Mike M, 09-18-2003 11:03:22  
One thing you could do to help your compressor would be to get some alcohol like they use in air brake driers on trucks and pour thru the air intake !!



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Mac

09-18-2003 10:52:28




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 Re: New Compressor - question in reply to Chuck, WA, 09-18-2003 07:01:44  
I simply dont like oilesss compressors. I drain my oil sump compressor about 3-4 times a year. If the drain petcock gives you problems, get another brass one from any hardware store that does not have the "0" ring. They make them, mine has been OK for 15 years. I dont know of any place you could oil these compressors, manual should say one way or the other. I guess you could bleed the air off between long periods of use, probably leak off anyhow.

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KURT (mi)

09-18-2003 08:15:37




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 Re: New Compressor - question in reply to Chuck, WA, 09-18-2003 07:01:44  
I suggest draining the tank after each use. and I would oil it.



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Slowpoke

09-19-2003 00:56:11




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 Re: Re: New Compressor - question in reply to KURT (mi), 09-18-2003 08:15:37  
Harbor Freight sells an automatic, pneumatic operated all brass drain for $11. Got mine on 1/2 price sale for $5.50. I haven't installed it yet, but it operates each time the compressor starts or stops. Of course it's made in China.
Manual cable operated remote drains are available from Grainger for about $5, or industrial automatics cost from $145-$350.



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Ben in KY

09-18-2003 08:45:11




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 Re: Re: New Compressor - question in reply to KURT (mi), 09-18-2003 08:15:37  
How would you oil it ? I agree with draining the condensation from the tank.



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KURT (mi)

09-18-2003 15:04:08




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 Re: Re: Re: New Compressor - question in reply to Ben in KY, 09-18-2003 08:45:11  
Oops, I meant any oiling points that the Mfg suggests to oil and greased.



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