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concrete floor

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BillV

09-05-2003 11:36:10




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Could anyone give me a ballpark price to have a concrete floor poured in a 35' X 40' pole barn? It is used to store a JD B and equipment, small work shop. Any tips or suggestions would also be appreciated....If I could do it over I would have.....when I had my floor poured. Thanks.




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David Bacon

09-08-2003 22:04:16




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 Re: concrete floor in reply to BillV, 09-05-2003 11:36:10  
simple-- 4" divide sq ft x 80 at 6 inches divide sq ft x 54. I am a contractor and try to keep repeat business (95% annual average). I tell anyone that wants a good job --- do not shop dollars. I put 1/2 inch bars 12 inches O C with chairs under it (tied at every intersection) so it stays in place. I sure do not want to start a up roar, but All the concrete we saw or jack hammer up that has wire mesh in it is under a majority of the slab very often ---REGARDLESS WHO POURED IT, including myself--very fussy about stomping it down. I waste no time in telling a potential customer that if low price is his concern why the heck did he call me? They called the wrong guy for the job. Then I give them some names of those that will give them their bargin price. If you can not afford rebar and chairs for it now, you best just wait till you can, Like any project that we skimp on quality---Can't afford the best way the first time??? We sure seem to be able to do it right when we replace it. My personal opinion in Iowa where we have some extreme temp. A good fill should be compacted. Another real important thing is to have a uniform fill---yes this does get expensive in some cases. We seldom if ever put 2 inches of fill in one corner and a foot in the other to bring it to grade ---- escavate it for a uniform foot of fill. I have been turned down for some jobs because of my more expensive methods. but I do get alot of calls for how can I fix there problems at a later date. Concrete usualy cracks where the fill meets the cut. Alot of concrete is cracked regardless who poured it, the rebar just keeps it from seperating or lifting. Shop floors usually get a 10 ft rail road rail tipped upside down, and flush with concrete for sledge hammer work on steel. Dave NE Iowa

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Robbie

09-06-2003 12:10:18




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 Re: concrete floor in reply to BillV, 09-05-2003 11:36:10  
I am a concrete contractor and to pour a 40x35 it comes to 1400s.f. and at a four inch slab youll need about 20yds of concrete and figure that at on average $70 a yard so there is $1400 dollars and to place and finish will be around $1000 so right at $2400 you could have a slab placed and finished for that building.



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Slowpoke

09-07-2003 01:22:32




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 Re: Re: concrete floor in reply to Robbie, 09-06-2003 12:10:18  
I'm planning on fiber reinforced 6" concrete on 2-3" of sand. The buliding is 42' wide. Would I need any rebar(1/2")? Or wire? Will the wire get mashed down by the workers? The door is only 12' wide, so I was thinking of 20' wide rebar only thru the center of the building. That would leave 11' on each side to the wall for a bench, work area and tractor parking that has no rebar. Or would 12' wide reinforcement be sufficient? What would be the recommended maximum spacing of the rebar? My heaviest tractor is about 7500lbs, but my forklift is 16000lbs. I guess the forklift could stay outside if the cost gets excessive. Any answers appreciated. Thank you.

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Tom

09-07-2003 09:08:17




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 Re: Re: Re: concrete floor in reply to Slowpoke, 09-07-2003 01:22:32  
Slowpoke, never use mesh. Old man who poured concrete all his life tole me he had tore out more slabs that most people have poured. He has never seen mesh anywhere but on the bottom of the old slab. 1. Mesh is not strong enough 2. mest is ALWAYS tramped down. Use 5/8" rebar on 18" centers, both directions on the whole slab. Consider more rebar under portion you dirve on.



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VaTom

09-07-2003 10:20:11




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: concrete floor in reply to Tom, 09-07-2003 09:08:17  
Tom,

No doubt your friend believed himself correct. I, however, used welded wire, no rebar, in my shop slab 10 yrs ago. We lifted it up with rakes while placing the concrete, as everybody is SUPPOSED to do. Worked great. Heavy tractors no problem.

The rebar you suggest is more than I've ever seen used but if you're putting concrete in tension, rather than the compression that it's great for, you'll need to buy a lot of steel. Unnecessary otherwise.

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john

09-07-2003 11:22:04




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: concrete floor in reply to VaTom, 09-07-2003 10:20:11  
I WILL AGREE WITH THIS!!! CONCRETE WIRE WORKS GREAT. ITS NOT THE WIRES FAULT IT WAS NOT INSTALLED RIGHT. THAT IS WHAT THEY MAKE WIRE CHAIRS FOR, TO KEEP WIRE OFF GROUND. (LITTLE BRICKS WORK TO)



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Slowpoke

09-08-2003 02:08:24




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: concrete floor in reply to john, 09-07-2003 11:22:04  
At 42' wide I think the wire will get trampled, as the center can't be reached without walking on the wire. A contractor building his own house nearby put rebar on 24" centers in his garage. He said the workers can walk between the rebar with little problem.



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VaTom

09-08-2003 04:21:34




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: concrete floor in reply to Slowpoke, 09-08-2003 02:08:24  
Slowpoke,

You planning on pumping the mud?



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Slowpoke

09-08-2003 22:45:21




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: concrete floor in reply to VaTom, 09-08-2003 04:21:34  
I hadn't planned on pumping. Would it eliminate walking on the mesh? Maybe the 1/2" rebar at 12" would be less costly than pumping. I need it anyway. Too hard to put down a roll of 1400sq ' of mesh by oneself. What is the longest float handle that is used? We need something to reach the center of 42' width.



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VaTom

09-09-2003 05:35:10




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: concrete floor in reply to Slowpoke, 09-08-2003 22:45:21  
Pumping I try to avoid. Rebar's immensely cheaper, if that's your choice. You've probably gotta walk in there anyway to screed. I was wondering how you were going to place the concrete with a rebar grid in place.

Floating out 22' is farther than I want to try, but the handles screw together as far as you want.

Be sure to read what David Bacon wrote about rebar and the excavation. This is exactly what I was saying about putting concrete in tension. For a slab, I don't. But it requires proper excavation. If you don't put it in tension, welded wire, or fiber if you can't manage to get the wire placed properly, is completely adequate. All you're doing is controlling a future crack.

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evielboweviel

09-06-2003 08:15:33




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 Re: concrete floor in reply to BillV, 09-05-2003 11:36:10  
look on down or in arcives as there was a discussion this spring?? hot water heat or at least the piping for it. 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 1/4" angle iron at all openings to protect the concrete edge. heavier steel reinforcment for 20' inside of doorways for future heavy equipment. fiber reinforced for sure. metal plates in floor in work area well anchored to serve as anchors. 2 1/2" pipe sleeves set at an angle to serve as anchor points. shop area perfectly level for fabrication work later. steel angle around and through middle of shop floor. all exposed steel grounded together and to welder. all exposed steel anchored very solidly in floor, welded to reinforcing bars.

VERY IMPORTANT 1" high denisity foam under and at edges of floor(designed for use under concrete floor)

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KURT (mi)

09-06-2003 04:18:44




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 Re: concrete floor in reply to BillV, 09-05-2003 11:36:10  
When I had my garage floor laid, 1200 sq. ft it cost me about $1300 in concrete and $950 in labor so it was about $2,400. You should be paying about $3,000 or so.



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JM

09-06-2003 03:48:32




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 Re: concrete floor in reply to BillV, 09-05-2003 11:36:10  
I had a 4"-5" floor poured in a 60 X 40 pole barn in 2002. The concrete was fiber reinforced, 3500 psi mix. The job was turnkey and included 1) all maerials including plastic vapor barrier. 2) labor to prepare crushed stone base 3) smooth finish
The cost was $5640, or approx. $215/yd3
Concrete here goes for $65-$70 as I am in a remote area.
Sometimes you can find a concrete contractor to place and finish the concrete for anywhere from $1 to $1.5 per ft2. (this does NOT include the price of materials)This time I could not find such a person!
Good Luck.
JM

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Wayne

09-05-2003 21:03:00




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 Re: concrete floor in reply to BillV, 09-05-2003 11:36:10  
I have to agree with the other posts, if you even think you might want something, be it a bathroom, electrical, or whatever, then have the piping roughed in for it. If your gonna be putting equipment on it, then I'd also have it fiber reinforced. The fiber helps to keep it from cracking and makes it tougher. We have pulled tracked loaders, dozers, etc. in on our floor to work on them through the years, and except for one stress crack in the middle that's been there since the 2nd year (it's 11 years old), it hasn't shown any more signs of cracks. Too if you drop something and it chips it, it doesn't seem to chip out as deep. Have them put a float finish on it too, at least where you park equipment. It's much easier to clean up spills, wash off mud, etc than a broomed finish. I've had both and wouldn't have a broomed finish in that type of situation again. Also, I'd figure in at least an additional 2-3 yards on top of what the measurements call for. Unless you leveled everything and know for a fact the floor won't be over 4' thick anywhere, I can guarantee you'll need at least part the extra. If things in your neck of the woods are like around here it is cheaper to get two full 10yd trucks than to just get 17 and then have to pay a trip charge, plus material cost, for a third truck to bring the extra out. Also be ready for any leftovers. This is a good time to go ahead and pour the stoop where you'll put the door when you decide to close it in.... Go ahead, make it a full fledged shop, you know you wanna.... Lastly, make you up some rectangular forms using 2x6 or 2x4, to get whatever thickness you want, and whatever size you think you might use and have them pour the extra in them. They are great platforms for whatever you want to use them for. I took the two from my shop and set them side by side, leveled them up, built a little 6x6x4 building, and put my emergency generator on them. It made an otherwise time consuming job quick and easy. Have fun, and enjoy the new floor.

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John

09-05-2003 21:02:07




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 Re: concrete floor in reply to BillV, 09-05-2003 11:36:10  
Here in Nothern Illinois concrete runs from 78.00 to 80.00 a yd. 2 years ago I poured a 30x30 floating slab 6" thick with fiber and wire for 1200.00. Kids did the work and I paid the bill...



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Jailkeeper

09-05-2003 20:15:40




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 Re: concrete floor in reply to BillV, 09-05-2003 11:36:10  
Lowes has a calculator page - the link is below.

You would need just over 17 yds. for your dimensions, at 4" thick. Concrete is approx. $68 per yard in our area. You would have to figure in the wire and labor to pour and finish. You could probably get it done for less than $3000. Just don't let the tax man see it!!!

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Van(WA)

09-05-2003 15:36:05




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 Re: concrete floor in reply to BillV, 09-05-2003 11:36:10  
BillV, Agree with the 17 yds of mud(+) In this area you would be lucky to get it poured for $4000! I would "rough" plumb it for a bathroom,, shower and all---floor drain is nice,--concert pad in front of large door, nice work area if needed--would run some PVC in floor for wireing, plugins in floor and ect----most of this is cheap to do before concret is poured. just some thoughts.



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Robert

09-05-2003 12:00:36




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 Re: concrete floor in reply to BillV, 09-05-2003 11:36:10  
There are a lot of variables in that kind of project, such as do you want "turn key", or will you have it formed, wire in place, etc? Last time I checked in my part of the world,(Central Texas) to have concrete "placed and finished", it was around $50-$60 cyd. That means, for a crew to show up, a truck with concrete, and them place and finish the concrete, no site work, wire, forming, etc. Price also "floats", depending on how busy these folks are, and local economic conditions. Obviously, the more you're willing (or able) to do yourself, the cheaper you get off. I'd stronly recommend getting a crew to place the concrete, though. Your project will require a bit more than 17 cyds. That's two truck loads, and way more work than one or two people can take care of.
This is assuming a 4" slab thickness. Good Luck!

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