String Trimmer - again

I have an Echo, model 1100 (I think) that I bought a number of years ago for light once or twice a month use around the yard. At the time, Ech was the most highly recommended trimmer by my local small engine shop, not a KMart blue light special.

It replaced a Sears that I had used for years for everything from light yard trimming to heavy duty clearing of blackberry bushes with a blade in place of the string head. I thought the Echo would be an improvement when the Sears finally became too cranky.

The Echo held up OK, but started getting balky all too soon. Took it back to the shop where I bought it and they essentially told me it was not worth working on since repair would cost a fair fraction of a new one. HUng it on the garage wall and didn't use it for a couple of years.

Last year I needed for it again when we moved onto some acreage and I needed to trim around sprinkler risers. I took it apart and cleaned it, and replaced the fuel filter. It ran OK, but I never could get it to idle. It ran at high speed, but when I let the throttle go, it would wind down and die. This year, it finally got to where it wouldn't run long at all.

One recent post suggesting cleaning the muffler. A week or so ago, I tore it down yet again and cleaned the carb, and checked the fuel filter - looks good - and cleaned the spark plug. I also cleaned the spark arrester (which was pretty well plugged) and muffler, set the hi and lo screws to 1-1/2 turns and tried it. I was able to get it to start and it will run at high speed, but I can't seem to get it to run slower, and if I come off the throttle all the way, it dies. The speed increases as I close down the hi speed screw until it's all the way in. The lo speed screw doesn't seem to do much, although it's hard to tell since I need to hit the throttle off and on to keep it running and adjust and check between throttles.

Any suggestions I might try to get it running smoothly again?

I am talking to my local Echo dealer/repair shop about cost of replacement carb or parts, but his parts listing doesn't include the GT1100 and I didn't have the make and model yesterday. I'm dropping by there with the carb today to let him take a look at it. But, before I buy a replacement, I'll try following up on a couple of the replies - probably tonight.

Still open to comments.

Thanks!

Right on regarding GOOD small engine shops - very rare! Most places that service anything anymore just replace major subsystems rather than try to figure out what the problem is - can't afford to spend the time to really troubleshoot or pretty quickly the labor cost is more than new. The shop where I bought it was pretty good, but as more and more people discovered that, they got very busy and then the slide started. Now, gotta find a new "good" one. Kinda like finding a good doc these days...once you find him and word gets around, he gets so busy he can't spend more than 30 seconds with you. Progress!

Thanks!

Incidentally, tried setting the throttle idel adjust screw to keep revs up enough to not die, but even with it all the way in, still doesn't keep it running.

You said you cleaned the carb. What did you do?

Can you remove the low speed jet? Can you get a replacement?

Just a couple of thoughts.

There is a screw that holds what looks like a plunger assembly in the carb body under the diaphragm. I didn't remove that since I'm not experienced enough to know for sure what I might damage.

Do you now of any web sites that might show an exploded view of a typical 2-cycle carb and generically explain how they work? I have a rough idea, but it might help to know what the various parts are.

I didn't see anything that I could identify as being low and high speed jets. The two screws screw directly into the carb body, and any jets seem to be imbedded in the carb. There are some plugged holes that I assume were used during assembly for inserting parts - maybe the jets?

If that's of any help, I'd appreciate any further comments.

Thanks!

When I need to THROUGHLY clean a carb, here's what I do. Note that I take digital photos of each and every step of tear-down to aid in reassembly:

Completely disassemble, including EVERY part I can remove.

Soak all parts (except rubber/vinyl if at all possible) in carburetor cleaner for several days, even up to a week. I *never* rush this step... I've learned from experience it's best to let the chemical do it's work. I use a gallon container of carb/brake cleaner which comes with a dip basket (Auto Zone is one place to get this). The parts should be completely immersed in the cleaner.

After removal from the soak, I use at least one can, often more, of spray BRAKE CLEANER to thoroughly hose down everything... all passages, orifices, exterior, interior, etc. I find brake cleaner dries faster and leaves the parts squeaky clean, better than regular carb cleaner. I don't use carb cleaner much anymore.

Next, I use compressed air, blowing both ways through all passages, especially through the needle and jet openings. In fact, I usually do the brake cleaner/compressed air routines two or three times in a row.

I then reassemble, using the digital photos as a guide if necessary. I rarely have a problem getting the filthiest carbs back in running condition following this routine.

Hope this helps...