Welding question

Unfortunately, the only welder I have available at work is an engine-driven stick welder.

I'm slowly learning about amperage vs. rod size, what rod size works best with what thickness material, etc. I can lay a pretty decent bead in a simple horizontal weld, flat or fillet.

The particular question I have at the moment is what technique works best for vertical welds? Bottom to top? Top to bottom? More or less heat? Stick out? Stick motion?

I'm the only one in the shop at the moment that will admit to knowing anything about welding, and the repair I'm doing requires some vertical fillet welds.

I did manage to get it stuck together, but it's truly ugly. The problem was made worse by the fact that the joint was open well over the recommended 2/3rds of rod diameter.

I'm beating on the boss trying to shame him into getting us a better welder...

Stick with 6011's for verticle welds... even 6013's have too much flux {JMO}. And never try 7014's for verticle!!!!! If the joint is too wide then you will have to do several passes and fill in the middle {building up either side till they join}... Make sure to knock out any slag between passes!!! Then use the grinder to clean up the globs. It takes time but it can be done.

If you are trying to finnese a new welder out of the boss..... don't get too proficiant with this welder ;-) Then offer to take the old welder off his hands for him after he gets a new one! {HA!}

Not a bad unit, for what it is, just not very versatile.

Big 10-4 on the 6011, I can get the boss to spring for 5 pounds of that, I think. He's so tickled to have a backup mechanic, he's pretty good about indulging me on the small stuff.

It's getting HIS boss to spring for anything that costs over $50 that's a good trick...

BTW, I was repairing/replacing the hinges on the feed apron of a Morbark chipper. Nice unit, diesel engine, but a tad underengineered where the folding feed apron hinges to the hopper. 1" pins welded to 3/16ths sheetmetal. The sheet metal is stiffened by a rolled edge and some bends in the corners, but the weight of the apron and the vibration is a killer and everything stress cracks.

Bill

I have done a lot of stick welding around the farm and have had to learn (self-taught) how to weld vertically and upside down. I almost always use a 6011 rod (less flux to get in the way, but more splatter), I also make several passes! I keep the rod pointed towards the weld (pointed in an upward manner on a verticle weld, since I am welding from the top-down) and I definitly try to keep the arc as short and close as possible (working the melted material with the tip of the rod). Backing away and creating a longer arc increases the amperage, thus increasing heat, and melting the material faster (probably too fast). I also move somewhat quickly down the joint and keep the amperage to the bare minimum (so as to not melt material too quickly). After a while you get used to seeing the molten metal flowing toward the rod and learn what speed to maintain to stay on the leading edge of it!

As for rod size and amperage... larger pieces of metal = larger rod (more amperage). Smaller pieces = smaller rods (less amperage). I will not attempt to tell anyone what amperage or rod to use because conditions and equipment are all different.... experience and practice are worth the effort! Keep slag cleaned away from the joint for your second and possibly third passes. wire brush between welds.

Good luck!

Dad taught me to weld, and basically told me that to learn how to weld.... you just have to experiment and burn a ton of rods (preferably on a lot of scarp metal), and remember what works and what doesn't work for you! What works for me and others, may not work for you! Seldom do any two welders have the same technique or abilities.

• T_bone's discussion