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Hi Tom, Well it's made very easy just like Deas Plant said. We'll assume a 1" drive 3" 6-point scoket. If you don't have a existing 6 point nut make a nut mold out of bar stock. Allow 1/16" side wall clearance to make the socket fit well when finished. Draw the nut shape on a piece of SM being very accurate. Next layout for the square drive in the center. This is for the 1" drive location upon fab. This will give the true lengths of each piece needed. Cut the bar stock to length and with bar ends cut square as this is where the fillet weld metal will go when fit together with good penetration. Next cut a piece of 1" square stock long enough to be used for a drive mold. Next cut 4 pieces for the drive sides. After the side pieces are tack welded then place the 1" sq stock mold in the center of the socket sides over the top of the SM layout. This loacates the drive centered to the socket side walls. Without moving anything measure for the cover pieces that fit from the socket walls to the drive walls. You will want to slope these pieces for structural strength just like a regular socket. Tack weld all. Next tack weld the socket mold and socket to the welding bench then weld. This will help keep the socket square as it's being welded. You will want to add some Mig nozzle anit-spatter spray to the socket and drive molds so weld will not stick to molds. Finsh grind and your done with the socket. Next build the breaker bar. Take a 1" round rod, I would say 36" long or longer and weld two flatbars on either side on one end again using the 1"sq drive mold. When done drill and pin the 1"sq drive mold then cut off the mold excess. Finsh grind and your done. Heat the socket and breaker bar to a straw color then quench in oil (adds hardness) then reheat both to 500* and quench again as this adds temper to the tools. Stamp your name on them or start over. If they don't look top quality then you don't want your name on them and then need to modifiy them or start over. T_Bone
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