Cutting holes in railroad rail?

I also have another section that I cut up for an anvil. T-Bone thanks for the other tech info about rail, learned something today.

RR iron is just great quality steel that can be worked with any method you choose. 6010, 6011, 6013, 7018 works well and is easy torched.

It's rated for size by the weight per foot, 90lb, 100lb, 120lb rail, etc: and stamped on the web of the rail.

They make a great anvil. The top of used RR iron works well for working round SM fitting and pipe as the corners are rounded over from rail car use. For this use I cut the web out leaving the rail top.

I also made a yard drag with 30lb rail. 10ft square, rail front and back with 1-1/2" pipe between the rails. This levels as it smooths my drive way. I add a 120lb rail on top when I want it to dig 6" down.

My next project is a press made from RR iron.

T_Bone

Depends, if there copper clad carbon, then they probably were used for welding, carbon arc process. Very good for SM welding.

They can also be used on air arc for cutting. Basicly a standard rod holder with a air hole. Turn on air, strike arc then watch the spraks fly. Very noisy and messy but they do have there uses.
T_Bone

Thanks Earl for the correction. I never gave it much thought as I'm used to dealing with I beams and columns.

Wonder if that has anything to do with surveying units? It would seam to fit in there.

T_Bone

Thanks,
Dick

The irons are sitting flat just like the would be for rail car use. The pipe is welded to the center of the web. You would also need a diagnoal or "X" braced to keep it square. That X can be lighter weight pipe/flatbar/angle etc.

To heavy of a RR iron will cause it to dig too much and makes it a bear to pull. Rolls about 12" pile of earth front and back. I use mine with my tractor or 4wd. But I have used my 1-ton 2wd van with a heavy foot.

I also use 1/2" cable with cable clamps to attach it to my hitch. This way I can set the drag to draw off center and pull up sage brush and small brush by hitting 1/3 of the sage brush at a time.

This also allows for the drag to be adjusted so it does not leave a trailing pile at the edge. Trial and error set.

Take your torch and melt the cable ends then smooth together with a hammer face. This keeps the wires from poking the truck paint or your hands.

T_Bone