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Gilbert Barker Compressor Pump ID PICS

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Richard Fazio

06-08-2003 10:30:19




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Ok I got one for you compressor guys. I posted some pictures of the pump on my Compressor. The tank has on it Gilbert & Barker Mfg Co. Springfield Mass. The pump I think was replaced. It's in good shape and works except it's clanking from the valves. I'd like to get parts for it but don't know the brand. Check out the pictures on the link below. There is a little triangle on the head with a large M and a small c below it. It's hard to make out in the picture. Thanks for any help, Richard.

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Richard Fazio - Sorry her

06-08-2003 10:32:25




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 Re: Gilbert Barker Compressor Pump ID PICS in reply to Richard Fazio, 06-08-2003 10:30:19  
Sorry here's the link.



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Roger

06-08-2003 12:34:39




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 Re: Re: Gilbert Barker Compressor Pump ID PICS in reply to Richard Fazio - Sorry her, 06-08-2003 10:32:25  
It's a Quincy. Probably a 325. Congratulations. You have the finest reciprocating compressor money can buy for only $100. A REAL 5hp. Price new, about $2000 CAN, just for the pump.

Nice job.

The little metal tag under the dipstick should tell you the model and revision number. Make sure rotation is correct for the oil pump when you set it up. If you look through the archives, I have already given another poster some tips on rebuilding a Qunicy a few weeks ago. This is a pretty old one, I've never seen unloader towers like those before.

Knocking is probably worn out wristpin bushings.

I just rebuilt an old 325 that was first built in 1969. Took me 2 days to clean all the burnt oil off it. Needed only rings, bearings, seals, and valveplates and springs. These are tough old birds.

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Richard Fazio

06-08-2003 12:51:43




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 Re: Re: Re: Gilbert Barker Compressor Pump ID PIC in reply to Roger, 06-08-2003 12:34:39  
Roger Thanks for the info. I found a plate on the compressor that says model 325 and then a stamped in 10. Below is 402879L and then, size 4.5 & 2.5 X 3. The clanking I don't think is the wrist pin. It's coming from the top of the compressor. It sounds like it's the valves. Also it sort of comes an goes. At times it's quiet. If it was the wrist pin I would think it would be more consistant. Are parts available for these compressors?

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RogerTHG

06-08-2003 16:03:40




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Gilbert Barker Compressor Pump ID in reply to Richard Fazio, 06-08-2003 12:51:43  
Quincy still builds these pumps. The first one rolled off the assembly line in 1920.

Yes, parts are available for these machines. the "10" is the revision number. It is important because depending on the revision, the valve springs may be 3 small coils or one big coil (better).

Contact a professional (industrial) compressor shop in your area and see if they can get you an ICC (Independant Components Corp.) Major Overhaul Kit for a Quincy 325, revision 10. Sometimes kits will supply parts for several revisions. Or, you can save a few buck and buy a Tune Up kit, which does not supply the taper bearings for the crank. Locally sourced bearings are usually cheaper. Tear down the compressor completely before ordering parts so you don't have any nasty surprises. These are not particularly cheap pumps to rebuild, but are well worth it, since you can count on it lasting for the rest of your life. If the bottom end is good, you can usually get by with the Tune Up Kit.

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Roger

06-08-2003 12:37:42




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 Re: Re: Re: Gilbert Barker Compressor Pump ID PIC in reply to Roger, 06-08-2003 12:34:39  
I meant Roger the Compressor Guy..... .Gotta come up with a catchy nic I guess!



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Richard Fazio

06-09-2003 05:25:56




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Gilbert Barker Compressor Pump ID in reply to Roger, 06-08-2003 12:37:42  
Roger, I'm ordering the top end parts. One thing I've noticed is it seems the valves were not installed correctly. The valve cover has a large bolt that goes through the top and clamps down on the valve body making a seal between the valve and head. How do you adjust the amount of pressure you apply. Or how dow you know when you've got it tight enough? Thanks.



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Roger

06-09-2003 20:12:22




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Gilbert Barker Compressor Pum in reply to Richard Fazio, 06-09-2003 05:25:56  
Back off all the set bolts and threaded collars. Torque down the square caps first, then set the locking bolts and collars in place. Otherwise, you may crack the covers when re-installing. I just do it by feel. All you are doing is putting enough locking force on the valve bodies to prevent them from moving around. You don't need much. There will be new copper rings to go under the valve bodies in the head overhaul kit. These provide the air seal, not excessive torque on the locking bolts and collars. Tighten by hand with what you can muster with an ordinary wrench, without a snipe. That is plenty.

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John Ristaino

08-10-2003 15:16:19




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Gilbert Barker Compressor in reply to Roger, 06-09-2003 20:12:22  
I just stumbled onto this trhead and was wondering what the modle number of the pump that you are talking about is. I have a pump # 308-1-226L I have been trying to find out about it. The tank that it is mounted on is stamped 1938 and the brass plate on the platform say it is serial #1882 from Gilber and Barker. Any info anyone has would be much apreciated.


Thanks
-- John --



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Richard Fazio

06-10-2003 18:21:05




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Gilbert Barker Compressor in reply to Roger, 06-09-2003 20:12:22  
Roger, I figured out what's making the clanking noise. It's those big unloaders you commented on. They have a mechanism inside that unloads the valve, a part moves around inside the tower. There is also a valve of some sort mounted on the side of compressor. It's brass and plugs into the block. I guess it controls the pressure to the unloaders somehow. I can't figure how. I can't blow through it at all, even when I move the parts around. Maybe it's the controller or the unloaders themselves that is the problem. What do you think? How does the controller work the unloaders?

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Roger

06-10-2003 19:18:14




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Gilbert Barker Compre in reply to Richard Fazio, 06-10-2003 18:21:05  
This valve is the hydraulic unloader valve. If you look in the bore on the side of the case, you will see a small oil hole leading from the oil pump. When the compressor starts, oil pressure builds and forces the spring loaded pistons apart. This closes off the needle valve inside the assembly and cuts off air to the head unloaders. They retract, and the compressor starts to pump. Conversely, when the compressor stops, and oil pressure drops, the pistons in this bore retract, opening the needle valve and letting air to the head unloaders to hold the intake valve plates open. You should get a small shot of air from the high pressure unloader when this happens. This will let you know the compressor has unloaded. Sometimes, this air is vented back into the head just before the low pressure intake valve, so it might not be too easy to hear. This hydraulic unloader not only serves to unload the compressor, it also prevents the pump from compressing if there is no oil pressure. Sometimes this will give the operator enough warning (no air production) to prevent the compressor from seizing up, but it is just better to do a little preventive maintenance (i.e. check the oil level once in awhile). If you cannot blow through it when you remove it from the compressor, it is full of crap, usually rust, or seized shut. There should be a small screen filter in the inlet port, and I believe there is a small felt filter inside the valve itself. You should be able to buy an overhaul kit for the hydraulic unloader valve from the same place you get the head overhaul kit. This valve must be working properly for the pump to unload. It might be worth buying an entire new one. BTW, you plumb this hydraulic valve directly from the tank valve.

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Richard Fazio

06-10-2003 05:38:26




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Gilbert Barker Compressor in reply to Roger, 06-09-2003 20:12:22  
Thanks again Roger. I'll let you know how it turns out.



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