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Hey roger, nother emglo question

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chris smith

06-04-2003 19:11:04




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I love my emglo, should of got it a long time ago, runs my air tools perfectly, getting more use than my big one. Now my question, since you seem to know quite abit about compressors, here is a few questions for ya.. Any idea what the duty cycle is?? Like how long it can run at a time?? And about the oil, it shipped with special emglo/dewalt synthetic oil. Now can i use mobil-1 10w30 full synthetic?? Seems it would work fine, it is what i use in my big air compressor.. What are your thoughts??

Thanks again!! chris...

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Roger

06-04-2003 21:07:43




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 Re: Hey roger, nother emglo question in reply to chris smith, 06-04-2003 19:11:04  
I'd recommend a 50% duty cycle or less. When you think about it, 50% running time is actually quite a lot. Reciprocating compressors need some time to cool off for best service life. It is not such a big problem on small compressors such as these since they do get a good blast of cooling air from the motor mounted fan, but a big cast-iron shop compressor gets just a mild breeze from the fins on the flywheel, which is only running about 1000-1500 rpm, so they tend to get quite hot if run hard. This is why unloading a compressor while it is running, via head unloaders opening the intake valves, makes a lot of sense if the compressor is cycling a lot. It gets the benefit of the cooling air from the fan, while drawing in and expelling cool air from atmosphere to lower temperatures inside the cylinder and head as well. Your compressor doesn't have this setup of course. Most important part is to keep the air filter clean, the oil level correct and keep the compressor level, at all costs. Many people have seized compressor pumps after taking them up on the roof.

I'd stick with the factory oil until the warranty was off it. Just gives them one less avenue for trying to get out from under their obligations if anything goes wrong. That is not a knock against DeWalt by the way, it is my opinion on anything that is under warranty. After that, I don't see any problem with running full synthetic automotive oil. Just pull off the back plate on the crankcase and give it a good flush first. When you get two incompatible oils, nasty things can happen. I serviced a Palatek screw compressor last summer for shutting down on overtemperature. I cleaned the rad and proceeded to add about 10 L of oil to the compressor. I opened up a pail of PetroCanada compressor oil and added it to the machine. It was sitting next to the compressor. I started it up and it ran fine. Case closed. Till the following morning, when the shop calls and says the compressor it dimming the lights when they try to start it. I go onsite and the unit is seized tight! WTH! I couldn't turn it with a pry bar. I pulled the whole unit and took it apart. Turns out, they were using Petro Canada SUPER compressor oil, a synthetic blend. I guess one of the guys ordered a pail of oil and forgot to stipulate the SUPER part. There was a foul gummy mess all throught the compressor, and I could peel a jelly-fish like scum off the bottom of the separator tank and mold it into various shapes like translucent plasticine, before it melted Terminator 2000-like back into a flat, formless shape. So, for the low low price of a $3000 overhaul, they found out that some oils, even cheek-by-jowl products from the same manufacturer, cannot be safely mixed.

I have been wrenching compressors for 9 years now, btw. Soon to be returning to school though, to make a radical change in my career path.

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Jack

06-04-2003 21:51:46




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 Re: Re: Hey roger, nother emglo question in reply to Roger, 06-04-2003 21:07:43  
Roger-you seem to be up on compressors. Would you know anything about the unloader on a vintage 1952 LeRoi Tractair. It controls the engine throttle and I think the compressor also. Any help would sure be appreciated-Jack



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Roger

06-05-2003 18:29:28




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 Re: Re: Re: Hey roger, nother emglo question in reply to Jack, 06-04-2003 21:51:46  
I know next to nothing about a LeRoi TractAir except it is a tractor with an engine block with two extra cylinders on the back for compressing air. I imagine the compressor unloads via plungers on the intake valves which are actuated by a pressure valve which can be adjusted by a screw and locknut to give the desired cutout pressure. It is probably linked to the throttle via a mechanical or pneumatic control which throttles the engine down as peak pressure is reached. Usually, the throttle control works in tandem with the engine governor to prevent the engine from racing when there is low air pressure. As I have said, I know almost nothing about this machine, but this was the general setup for a 1953 Jaeger portable with an old Westinghouse (LeRoi) 3 cylinder compressor on it, driven by a 4 cylinder Continental which I worked on a couple of years ago. I suspect this is not very helpful information.

What is the problem you are having?

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Bill

06-05-2003 21:59:01




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey roger, nother emglo question in reply to Roger, 06-05-2003 18:29:28  
Roger; e-mail me your phone # can;t get to ya by e-mail[ about jd55 parts ] Bill



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Jack

06-05-2003 21:45:17




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey roger, nother emglo question in reply to Roger, 06-05-2003 18:29:28  
The problem is that the unloader is not working at all. I am not sure that all the parts are there, and have no idea how to find out. Do you think it would be possible to use another unloader? You are correct I think in the fact that something cuts the compressor off while at the same time throttleing back the engine. It is all air controlled so might not be too hard to substitute another unloader??? Any input appreceiated. Thanks Jack

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RogerTheCompressorGuy

06-06-2003 16:38:01




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey roger, nother emglo questi in reply to Jack, 06-05-2003 21:45:17  
If you have the mechanism to control the throttle,and the unloader plungers are ok on the cylinder heads, you could probably use a pilot valve like they put on portable gas drive compressors. It takes a signal from the tank and sends it to the control system once the preset cut-out pressure it reached. Once the pressure falls again, the valve closes and bleeds the control air off so the throttle opens and the intake valves begin to function normally again. You could probably use one of these pictured in the link below, although the vent would be redundant in your case as the compressor is not pumping when the inlet valves are unloaded.

BTW, Bill, I am not the Roger you are looking for. I began posting here in late 1999 for about a year or so, then left for awhile. I will amend my name from now on.

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Jack

06-06-2003 22:03:38




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey roger, nother emglo qu in reply to RogerTheCompressorGuy, 06-06-2003 16:38:01  
OK-I think you have me headed in the right direction. Can't find any info on my present unloader so will have to come up with something to replace it-a little more modern and servicable.
Thanks-Jack



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