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Any electricians out there?

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Keith

05-29-2003 10:47:14




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Suppose a guy has a 15 amp circuit running through 250' of 12-2 wire. What is the voltage loss assuming a typical 120V circuit at the load center.
What is the loss at 300'?

I wired my barn to the house load center with 12-2 UF romax. Everything works, but any tool I use bogs down quickly when put under load. Examples are angle grinder (5 amp rating), miter saw (12 amp rating), sheep shears ( ?? rating).

I plan to start over and run either 8-2 or 10-2 out to the barn. Because of the 12-2 wiring in the barn I believe I'm still restricted to a 20 amp circuit which is ok with me. It's an animal barn. I don't plan to be doing any HD stuff out there. Do I need the 8-2 or 10-2?

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pdruff

06-04-2003 11:27:18




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 Re: Any electricians out there? in reply to Keith, 05-29-2003 10:47:14  
I built a barn 150 ft from the house and did as a several previous posts suggested. I ran way bigger line than I thought I needed, and I ran counduit for future lines (computer/phone/ ect)



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Central Minnesota

05-30-2003 07:40:46




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 Re: Any electricians out there? in reply to Keith, 05-29-2003 10:47:14  
Send me your address and I'll mail a little book to you no charge. It's the 1996 edition of the 'Agricultural Wiring Handbook' It's not quite up to the 2002 National Electric Code but it is close enough and certainly better than guessing. My advice though is this. If copper 10-3 UF cable (30 amp rated) is close to the same price as #2 Aluminum (100 amp rated)underground service entrance cable, it does not make economic sense to use the 10-3. The #2 aluminum has you covered for both voltage drop and ampacity just in case you add load at a later date. This is an over simplified answer and the Ag wiring book will answer all of your questions much more thoroughly. MN Master Electrician.

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G Taylor

05-29-2003 19:37:00




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 Re: Any electricians out there? in reply to Keith, 05-29-2003 10:47:14  
I have seen on long runs where it paid to or to be able to make the system work. With a 240 to 600 transformer on the supply end and another on the load end to drop back 120/240. Cuts current/voltage drop to 1/5 on 120V loads.



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luke

05-29-2003 19:30:07




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 Re: Any electricians out there? in reply to Keith, 05-29-2003 10:47:14  
take out any resisters.



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Gary in IL

05-29-2003 18:10:29




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 Re: Any electricians out there? in reply to Keith, 05-29-2003 10:47:14  
Wiring Axiom # 1 : What you think is adequate today is way too small next year.
Wiring Axiom # 2 : It's a lot easier to over-build it now, than to re-do it later.

With those in mind, I'd suggest burying a 2-1/2 or 3" PVC conduit, and pulling in 5 or 6 pull strings (poke a hole in a ping-pong ball, thread the string thru, use the shop-vac to suck it thru) for 'future expansion' (telephone, computer cable, cable TV coax) and run at least 2- #2's and a #4, and breaker it at 100 amps at the supply end; at the business end, put in a 12 or 16-space panel and you will be set for at least a year or so, then you can go back and pull in another pair of # 2's and set up a second panel if necessary.

use 100 amp breakers at the supply end, because 'odd' rated ones (120, 140, etc) cost a bunch more than 100's (economy of scale in manufacturing them, I guess).

My shop is 140 ft (conduit feet) from the service panel, I have 4-#2's and two # 4's in a 3"conduit, one set for the 'normal' stuff, the other for a 10 kW and a 6 kW electric furnace (no way I'm running pilot lights with the possibility of spilled gasoline) plus water heater. Total draw on the 'normal' circuit is about 60 amps with welder, compressor, hot tank for soaking transmission cases, and all lights on; the other one runs about 90 amps with both furnaces going full-bore and using hot water(Illinois Power loves my account!!)

I also buried 3-1" conduits at the same time for cable TV, phone, computer, and other cables, plus a 4" drain and a 2"pipe in which I ran a 3/4 inch water line (all the comforts of the house, in the shop, OR 'you clean yourself up out there before you come in the house !!!')

This may be 'overkill' for your requirements, but should give you some ideas.

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Bus Driver

05-29-2003 16:55:31




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 Re: Any electricians out there? in reply to Keith, 05-29-2003 10:47:14  
If you plan to have a panel at the barn to supply more than one circuit at the barn, the minimum wire size would be #10, even if the distance is short. If you run 240/120 volts with three insulated #8 wires plus #10 equipment grounding conductor (assumes copper) and are careful to balance the loads on two separate circuits fed from the two poles of the feeder, the operating voltage loss can be cut in half. Very long explanation for this, but this is fact.

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Jerry

05-29-2003 14:52:21




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 Re: Any electricians out there? in reply to Keith, 05-29-2003 10:47:14  
See if this link works for a voltage drop calculater. According to this, David would be correct that you would need at least #8



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David - OR

05-29-2003 12:40:36




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 Re: Any electricians out there? in reply to Keith, 05-29-2003 10:47:14  
It's the two-way distance that matters. If tape-measure distance between the buildings is 250 feet, then the two-way distance (Hot + Neutral) is 500 feet. This is quite a long way to run a branch circuit at 120V.

The electrical code suggests shooting for a max voltage drop of 5%, or 6 volts on a 120 volt circuit. For a 15 amp load out in the barn, you need a max resistance of 6/15 or 0.4 ohm.

(Remember that it is the total load. So if you have the lights on to the tune of 3 or 5 amps then that subtracts from the 15 amps otherwise available.)

For a 500 foot total distance you need a resistance per foot less than .4 / 500 or .0008 ohms per foot. From tables readily available on the net (Do a yahoo search for "Copper wire resistance").


12 AWG wire is .00187 ohms per foot
10 AWG wire is .00118 ohms per foot
8 AWG wire is .000739 ohms per foot

By this calculation, 8 AWG wire would support a 15 amp total load with a 5% voltage drop.

Hopefully you are actually using 12-2 with ground, and providing a separate equipment ground.

A fully code compliant "animal barn" is also supposed to have special provisions for bonding and grounding, and sometimes dust and corrosion resistant wiring measures.

Caveat: I am not an electrician.

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