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Can anyone ID this compressor?

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John in MA

05-24-2003 16:52:13




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This is the compressor pump off a dump-landed motor/pump combo I got today. Anyone know who made it? Single stage, two cylinder cast iron compressor from the '30s-'50s. The neat feature is that it has a centrifugal unloader valve, so it has to be a high-end machine. The air cleaner is this great big casting with a felt element. The pump was mounted to a little platform with a finned air line (like a 2-stage's) going to a tiny (like 12x6") pressure tank with a drain. I'm guessing that it was just for trapping water before the air went into whatever large tank this was probably used with.

The little tag is very worn, but it says "Model (maybe something here) 210".

BTW: It's only horizontal because I just got it home.

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Greg C. pa

05-24-2003 23:29:13




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 Re: Can anyone ID this compressor? in reply to John in MA, 05-24-2003 16:52:13  
Yep I agree looks like a Kellogg. I just picked up two of them a 320 and 321tv. Your pump looks alot like the 320 has the same big aircleaner bell. Looks like I'm going to rebuild the 321tv they are very easy pumps to tear down. Anybody know what size motor I should use with this pump?



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Roger

05-24-2003 22:34:18




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 Re: Can anyone ID this compressor? in reply to John in MA, 05-24-2003 16:52:13  
90% sure its an old Kellogg. Dead giveaway is the knurled plug for adding oil. If you take the back cover off (the centrifugal unloader), look to see if the crankcase has a gap at the top. This enables you to put the crank in place with the rods already installed. It also means you have to shim this back plate to get correct bearing preload. Another dead giveaway for a Kellogg is an oiler ring running on the center of the crankshaft that is held in place by a small standoff cast into the bottom of the crankcase. Kellogg's also have oil collector plates brazed onto the bottom of the crankshaft counterweights. Flywheel cooling fins also look like a Kellogg. If it has "American Brake Shoe Company" on it anywhere, it is DEFINATELY a Kellogg.

If it is a Kellogg 210, you have yourself a good quality pump. Parts may be hard to find though, as I believe this pump was discontinued back in the 60's. Biggest thing to be careful of is torquing the two bolts near the top rear of the crankcase, next to the gap. It is very easy to split the case here and ruin it. If in doubt, leave these a bit on the loose side and Loctite them when reassembling the pump.

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John in MA

05-25-2003 11:40:25




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 Re: Re: Can anyone ID this compressor? in reply to Roger, 05-24-2003 22:34:18  
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Thanks Roger, you're great. Do you know the age this one might be? I don't know if it was original, but it was coupled to a huge cast-iron 3/4HP motor that is about the size of a modern 5. Also, do you know what Kellogg's running specs were for this unit? RPM, HP, CFM?

If you don't mind, I have another one for you. The pump in the photo was another dump find a few years back. I've been using it on my homemade compressor since. It's about 12" tall, cast iron block with aluminum head and rear cover. Disc valves. No maker's marks. I've only seen one other and it was on a store-brand machine from the '70s.

Thanks

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Dave@NY

05-26-2003 04:24:16




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 Re: Re: Re: Can anyone ID this compressor? in reply to John in MA, 05-25-2003 11:40:25  
John,I see in the picture of your home-built,that you have your check valve right off the compressor head.I set one up the same way.Had to change it as it got too hot and spoiled the plunger from too much heat.Now have it in the tank with about 20" of copper tube up to the compressor.Nice looking unit you put together BTW, probablly out last several of those throw-away jobs.



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John in MA

05-26-2003 10:05:54




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Can anyone ID this compressor? in reply to Dave@NY, 05-26-2003 04:24:16  
Thanks, it's slow but steady.

Actually, the check valve is the aluminum thing at the tank. Right off the head we have a tee that goes to the unloader valve in the pressure switch. After the tee is a 1/4>3/8 adapter and then an el with a tubing fitting. The tank line then goes down to another tubing fitting at the check valve. Getting that copper tube bent so smoothly with springs and sand took a while!

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Dave@NY

05-27-2003 02:47:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Can anyone ID this compressor? in reply to John in MA, 05-26-2003 10:05:54  
I understand now.It looked like a check valve in the photo.Hate to see someone make my mistake.Am in process of piecing together another compressor using a 2 stage pump similar to the one in your original post.



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Roger

05-25-2003 15:02:22




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 Re: Re: Re: Can anyone ID this compressor? in reply to John in MA, 05-25-2003 11:40:25  
I'm stumped on this one. I haven't seen one like it before. Might be a pump common to many brands, as re-badging happens quite a lot in this market segment. Might also be an offshore brand.



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John again

05-25-2003 12:34:38




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 Re: Re: Re: Can anyone ID this compressor? in reply to John in MA, 05-25-2003 11:40:25  
By "this one" I meant the Kellogg, not the one in the photo.



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Roger

05-25-2003 22:29:00




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Can anyone ID this compressor? in reply to John again, 05-25-2003 12:34:38  
This might help somewhat. You might be able to extrapolate your running specs based on bore and stroke and HP range of these models. Too bad CompAir has dumped all these cast iron units. They are now selling re-badged IMC (Italian I believe) P.O.S. aluminum reed valve pumps under the CompAir name. Another industry standard bites the dust. I guess nobody is willing to pay for quality anymore. I think they closed LeRoi too. They dumped Broomwade as well and Holman is probably getting axed soon (two very old and distinguished British makes). They are assembling their new screw compressors with units built in Germany. Some of these divisions were well over 100 years old and were some of the earliest innovators in the compressed air and rock drill field. I guess this is what happens when a company is bought and sold as many times as CompAir has been.

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John in MA

05-27-2003 21:33:16




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Can anyone ID this compressor? in reply to Roger, 05-25-2003 22:29:00  
Thanks Roger. Do you have one more in you? What can you tell me about Brunner? I bought a couple of stationary (complete with neat cast iron legs) 20 gallon Brunner compressors for $25 each at a school auction. Both from the early '50s. One has what I think is the original pump (small single cylinder, but massive crankcase), the other has an '80s Speedaire that's actually Champion's smallest twin cylinder.

Thanks again

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Roger

05-28-2003 20:32:12




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Can anyone ID this compres in reply to John in MA, 05-27-2003 21:33:16  
Brunner was a company that built very heavy duty compressors in Utica NY. The were actually reworked ammonia compressors, so they were very heavily built and last forever. Parts availability is spotty, though a few companies can still seem to get their hands on some for the more popular models. They went out of the compressor business about 1980 or thereabouts. They were also sold under the Dunham-Bush label. Unfortunately, the smallest Brunner I have seen or have a parts breakdown for is a 2 cylinder, so I am wondering if maybe it is a replacement pump built by another company. Pictures are always helpful. BTW, I was looking for any info on your Kellogg (?) and I can find parts breakdowns for a 201 or a 211 but not a 210.

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John in MA

05-29-2003 10:18:31




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Can anyone ID this com in reply to Roger, 05-28-2003 20:32:12  
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Here's the photo. Says model A-4 on the spec plate, no maker's name.

It could very well be from another company. Wasn't Brunner also known as a bare tank maker?



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Roger

05-29-2003 15:10:30




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Can anyone ID this in reply to John in MA, 05-29-2003 10:18:31  
I am quite sure it is not a Brunner, as I have never seen a Brunner with removeable valves, as this one has. Every Brunner I have seen has required removal of the head to service the valves. Brunners usually have a lot more head bolts also. It might be an old Gardner Denver, due to the color and shape of the flywheel blades, but the castings seem a bit rough, and GD model names are usually an alphabet-soup collection of letters. It might be a brand that is common in the US but was not a big seller here in Canada. BTW, it turns out there is a pump in the shop that is exactly the same as the red one you showed me previously. It is on a tank of the same color, but with no markings on it whatsoever. I will ask the boss if he has a clue as to what it is.

As far as I know, the Brunner tank manufacturing company is not the same as the compressor company, but I stand to be corrected.

Have you opened the "Kellogg" yet to see if it is indeed the genuine article? I was thinking maybe there was a possibility that it might be a Brunner if not a Kellogg.

Seems like an episode of Antiques Roadshow sometimes!

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John in MA

05-30-2003 15:29:40




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Can anyone ID in reply to Roger, 05-29-2003 15:10:30  
I'd be intersted to hear what the boss knows about that little red pump.

Haven't torn into the Kelloqq, but you were right about the brand. Under about a half pound of crap I found a decal that says "Br k Sho Co pan ". You get the picture. Turns out that the crank is slighty bent from its fall into the scrap bin. Looks like I'll have to try and straighten it.



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Roger

05-30-2003 22:20:36




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Can anyone in reply to John in MA, 05-30-2003 15:29:40  
One of the guys thinks the red pump may be an old Smith pump. E.L. Smith I think, but that is just a guess, and I cannot find anything on the net in terms of parts, sorry.

Best way to straighten the crank, in my experience, is to set up a dial indicator on the side of the pump and rotate the flywheel till you find the spot closest to the pump. Mark it and bring it up parallel with the block. Now, put a small hydraulic ram between the block and the flywheel, like the small ones you can buy to pop ball joints, and gently push the flywheel out a bit farther than straight up and down, so when it springs back into place, it will be close to level. It might take a few tries, but I have gotten them to within .002" of true using this method. It comes in handy when you tip over an $8000 duplex Devair compressor when all you have to install it with is an engine hoist and a 12" sling, cough, cough...

You should be able to rent a porta-power and the small ram from a rental shop.

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John in MA

05-30-2003 22:48:14




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Can an in reply to Roger, 05-30-2003 22:20:36  
Thanks a lot. I really appreciate the help. Parts are no problem with the red pump, as it'll be replaced with that Speedaire/Champion I mentioned soon enough.

I'll give that flywheel method a shot. I have an old German hydraulic kit--don't think I have the short ram/spreader. Have you ever seen an iron flywheel busted thi



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Roger

05-31-2003 08:38:06




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ca in reply to John in MA, 05-30-2003 22:48:14  
I haven't broken a flywheel yet by doing this. It just takes patience and a bit of judgement. Usually the crank bends quite easily. Maybe I'm kidding myself and I'm actually bending the flywheel, but if it's running true, what the hey? I can't see it being the wheel though, as I doubt it would stay true all around if it was.



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Roger

06-01-2003 20:55:23




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re in reply to Roger, 05-31-2003 08:38:06  
In regards to the old green compressor, if it is a Gardner Denver, it should have the little interlocked GD logo on the connecting rod. Also, Gardner Denver pumps tend to have oil dippers on the rods that come down to a needle sharp point. It is a peculiarity of this particular brand. Some also have a wristpin held in place with an Allen bolt, like a DeVilbiss.



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