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Pole barn insulation

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Tom

05-16-2003 11:00:32




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I have a metal building that is not insulated. I just laid a concrete floor in it this past weekend and am now to the stage of putting some insulation in the roof. The building has trusses on 8 foot centers with what look like 1x4 purlins spaced every 3 feet. What method of insulation would be best here? I have considered fiberglass rolls covered with drywall. (Too much work) Styrofoam boards. (Fire hazard) "Celotex Thermax Light Duty" boards (Mighty pricey). Help would be appreciated.

Tom

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Brian TL

03-14-2006 05:53:22




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 Re: Pole barn insulation in reply to Tom, 05-16-2003 11:00:32  
Kind of a dead subject, but I'd like to see it come back to life with more information. I'm at the stage of trying to decide how to eliminate the "indoor rain" phenom with my 54 x 45 barn. Would a good quality vapor barrier alone laid down on top of the purlins before I put the metal roof on help keep a layer of air in there. Would that do anything. I currently have my plane stored in a hangar without anything on the roof, and I get a lot of condensation build up in the temperature changes.

Thanks

Brian

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YoungFarmer

05-18-2003 17:47:21




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 Re: Pole barn insulation in reply to Tom, 05-16-2003 11:00:32  
Hey Tom, I think I may have some Info that can Help, I worked at FarmTek this summer and we sold "TekFoil" Its a flexible bubble insulation with two layers of foil on either side, impervious to moisture. Its sold in large rolls and there is a roll that is 8 ft long that should fit right in for you with minimal cutting, this too could be suspended with chicken wires. It ranges about $.27 to $.32 a sq ft (the more expensive stuff has two layers of the bubbles inside) and can be bought online at farmtek.com

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plh_IN

05-22-2003 05:08:23




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 Re: Re: Pole barn insulation in reply to YoungFarmer, 05-18-2003 17:47:21  
Check into the spray-on foam. I recentely had this done to my metal barn & love it. It was done in a day & its neat/clean. Its a little spendy, but vs. the time etc. thought it was worth it. They have kits that you can do-it-yourself if need be. Check out: fomo.com.

Good Luck!



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Doris

05-20-2003 06:59:52




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 Re: Re: Pole barn insulation in reply to YoungFarmer, 05-18-2003 17:47:21  
We just had a barn built and getting it ready for horses. We want to insulate the side where the horse stalls are going to be. Can you tell me what the cheapest and safest type of insulation would be and where we'd be able to get it from?



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Mike

05-18-2003 06:44:58




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 Re: Pole barn insulation in reply to Tom, 05-16-2003 11:00:32  
I bought white metal siding,(seconds) screwed it to the trusses and had insulation blown in. I have a ventilator in the roof to help move some air around and hold down the condensation. An added benefit is the white ceiling really brightens it up,even with the lights off.



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Bill

05-17-2003 05:01:22




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 Re: Pole barn insulation in reply to Tom, 05-16-2003 11:00:32  
If you use fiberglass insulation the mice will love you.



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evielboweviel

05-17-2003 10:09:23




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 Re: Re: Pole barn insulation in reply to Bill, 05-17-2003 05:01:22  
birds also unless completly covered over, I don't mean just vinyl wrapped either



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Kent

05-16-2003 15:08:33




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 Re: Pole barn insulation in reply to Tom, 05-16-2003 11:00:32  
Tom, I am in Illinois near Marion/Carbondale, I have the same weather as you do. As stated you should allow the concrete to cure and allow the moisture and heat to get out of it before "closing up the barn. Did you put a vapor barrier on the pirlins before the metal roof was put on?? If not after the concrete has dried you shouldnt have too much of a problem with moisture except for a few times a year when there is a sudden change of weather and moisture will bead up on the concrete. I bought some ground and it has a pole barn without vapor barrier on roof, now with just a dirt floor it sometimes has it's own weather inside and rains. I will eventually remove the roof and put on vapor barrier. You could put on Thermax type of insulation in 4x8 sheets but the moisture will bead up on top and run out at the walls. Generally when the moisture/vapor barrier is put on it is a fan fold type and is left to stick out past the edge to allow the moisture to run down and drip into a gutter. Not the Gospel, just my .02 cents!! Good luck. Kent

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RONDAL

05-24-2005 12:14:33




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 Re: Re: Pole barn insulation in reply to Kent, 05-16-2003 15:08:33  
I ALSO GET THE RAIN AND THE BEADING OF WATER INSIDE THE 23X40 POLE BARN.(LOOKS LIKE SOMEBODY TURNED ON A WATERHOSE) I HAD FIBERGLASS/PLASTIC VAPOR BARRIOR INSULATION ABOVE THE BOTTOM OF THE TRUSSES AND THE MICE LOVE IT. RIPPED OUT THAT VAPOR BARRIER AND FIBERGLASS INSULATION AND NOW I AM LOOKING AT BLOWING SOME OF THAT FOAM TYPE OF INSULATION IN. I GUESS THIS WILL HELP STOP THE CONDENSATION PROBLEM. RON PEORIA ILLINOIS

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David - OR

05-16-2003 12:28:26




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 Re: Pole barn insulation in reply to Tom, 05-16-2003 11:00:32  
Much depends on your climate and what you intend to do with the building.

If it is to be a shop, a nice white ceiling goes a long way towards making the interior brighter and easier to work in. Drywall provides fire protection and (with two coats of latex paint) enough vapor retardence to let you use unfaced fiberglass batts.

For a storage application and light shop use, it might be reasonable to use unfaced batts supported by wires strung from one truss to the next. Without the kraft paper, the fiberglass in non-combustible. If you aren't going to be washing a lot of stuff or keeping animals in the building you shouldn't need a vapor barrier. You could put a ceiling in later if you decide you want one.

If you do use any fiberglass product, I would suggest waiting at least a month for the concrete to dry and get the moisture level down.

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Tom

05-16-2003 13:18:48




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 Re: Re: Pole barn insulation in reply to David - OR, 05-16-2003 12:28:26  
David,

I am near St. Louis. (Hot and humid in summer, Cold at times in the winter). The area will not be for a dedicated shop, although at times there will be work done in there. So, if I use fiberglass batts without the paper, I could use some "chicken wire" to support the batts. It sounds like a reasonable solution to me. By the way, thanks for the suggestion on waiting until the concrete cures, I hadn't thought of that.

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David - OR

05-16-2003 19:56:24




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 Re: Re: Re: Pole barn insulation in reply to Tom, 05-16-2003 13:18:48  
Kent makes a very good point above. Many of the metal roof buildings have a tendency to condense water on the underside of the metal, with the right amount of humidity in the air and a sudden temperature change. Plastic barriers underneath the metal keep the moist air from reaching the cold roof. And they also keep most of anything that does drip from the roof from dripping down.

But if you have a bare metal roof, the fiberglass idea has a problem. The fiberglass will soak up any water that drips from the roof above, rendering it ineffective as an insulator.

If it's an existing building that you are fixing up, you probably know whether it exhibits this tendency. If it is new, maybe ask your neighbors, etc. about whether they have this "interior rain" problem.

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T_Bone

05-16-2003 13:43:45




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 Re: Re: Re: Pole barn insulation in reply to Tom, 05-16-2003 13:18:48  
Hi Tom,

Have you considered the foil backed plastic bubble wrap insulation? I have no idea of the large scale cost vs fiberglass but it's hard to beat fiberglass cost.

I use the foil stuff in my windows during the summer time in AZ, and it really makes a huge differance in room heat load.

T_Bone



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