Question for Roger Prosper

I have had limited experience with non detergent, non compressor oils. I have seen people using a product from Esso (Exxon) called Mineralube, and it seemed to work well. If regular, non detergent oil has worked for you, I don't see why you shouldn't keep on using it. Keep in mind, however, many compressors take oil vapor in from the crankcase to help lubricate the valves, so there will always be some oil going into your head, usually. For me, it is worth the little bit extra to get the proper compressor oil, it really is formulated to meet the specific needs of compressors. I have seen first hand how badly carboned up compressor cylinder heads can be when improper lubricants are used, especially heavy 15w40 engine oils. Additives designed to clean the engine from deposits seem to be the culprit, ironically. Are you familiar with AMS oil synthetics? We use their compressor oil in many of our gas driven units. It is good stuff, excellent hi-temp charachteristics, and pourable at low temperatures, but I would only recommend it for a machine that is thoroughly broken in. Synthetics can interfere with proper run in by being TOO slick,(I have seen it happen to two units I built, lesson learned). Sometimes it doesn't allow enough friction to break in rings and such. No matter what you use though, change it regularly, any oil will get sludgy after awhile, and infrequently used compressors tend to get condensation in their oil, like any machine. Oil is a major profit center for many compressor companies. I have seen companies selling their big compressors practically at cost and then tying their customers into 2-10 year warranty agreements that can only be validated by using their name-branded oil exclusively. I have seen compressor oil from $150 for 5 gallons up to $900 for 5 gallons. Sure, it is good stuff, but it does get a bit laughable at times. AMS oil should be available in 1 litre, oops, 1 quart jugs, from any AMS oil dealer. If you can't find AMS oil, compressor oil available at most hardware stores should do just fine.

Bye!

Just when I think I have heard of them all, a new one shows up. Sorry, that is a brand I am not familiar with. No harm in pulling it down though to see what needs doing. I recently gave some advice to a fellow rebuilding a 1912 Brunner with a flat belt drive! He seems to be rolling along just fine. You can often cross reference piston rings from a Hastings catalog that will fit obsolete machines. I once used piston rings for a 1922 Alfa Romeo to rebuild a compressor. Wrist pin bushings can easily be resized, and bushings can be put into worn piston wrist pin bores. Most scoring of cylinders can be honed out, within reason. Big end bearing inserts can be a problem, but I have shaved rods and end caps and rebored the big ends on aluminum rods to refit them to crank journals. You lose a bit of stroke though. Valves are usually the biggest headache to remedy on an obsolete pump. I don't know what style they are so I can't help you there. Oil seals are no trouble to replace, and any roller bearings should be readily available. This can be an expensive way to go, but it can also be kind of fun. See if you can get any valve plates first. They will be the key to any rebuild. This all assumes of course that you can do this type of work yourself, since any amount of machining adds up pretty quickly to the price of a new pump.