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Board Batten Siding? Help!

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Bill Oakes NY

05-13-2003 08:39:06




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I need a little advice. I have 12 inch wide boards and 3 inch battens, pine, stickered since last Nov., for siding for my pole barn. Some guys tell me to fasten the boards only in the center, to allow the board to expand and contract with moisture changes. Other people tell me to nail at the edges of the 12 inch boards to keep them from cupping. Can someone tell me the correct way to do this? Thank you very much.

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KevinO

05-19-2003 07:55:10




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 Re: Board Batten Siding? Help! in reply to Bill Oakes NY, 05-13-2003 08:39:06  
Ive done a few b&b buildings on my property and would definately recommend nailing in the center, 1 or 2 nails. Especially with a 12" wide pine plank. Air dried lumber will typicall not go below 20% moisture content, as opposed to 6% for kiln dried. What that means is that 12" board can move anywhere between 12 1/2 and 11 1/2 from winter to summer in a new growth pine with thick annular rings. (old growth, not as much)The battens need to be snug against boards but definately not nailed into or you will prevent the wood from expanding/contracting.

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VaTom

05-19-2003 11:07:48




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 Re: Re: Board Batten Siding? Help! in reply to KevinO, 05-19-2003 07:55:10  
Hi Kevin,

Here in central Va., we routinely air dry to 15% mc. You must really live in a swamp! A local lumber yard claims to sell 7% kiln lumber. Last time I went out to buy white oak I took my meter. Yep, 15%. They don't store it in a climate controlled shed and it goes right up to air dried levels in a short time. In Denver, we air dried to 7%.

The amount of movement will vary greatly depending on species and even more so, depending on the way the board was cut from the log. Quarter sawn is what you want if you're concerned with movement. Bruce Hoadley wrote a book, "Understanding Wood" which is fantastic for anybody interested enough.

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Fred P

05-13-2003 22:47:21




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 Re: Board Batten Siding? Help! in reply to Bill Oakes NY, 05-13-2003 08:39:06  
Robert has the right way, or the way that we do it. We use two 8# nails near the center of the 12" board and nail the bats with 16# nails, the nails in the bats should go in the crack.

Fred..... .....



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Butcher

05-13-2003 19:32:34




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 Re: Board Batten Siding? Help! in reply to Bill Oakes NY, 05-13-2003 08:39:06  
I do not know if this will help since we live in differant parts of the U.S. but I have worked on 100's of barns here in central Iowa. From repair to demo to putting steel on them. In this area most barn boards and bats are cedar. It is much more stable than pine. As the one post said, keep the bark side in. If you look at the growth rings on your wood, they are shaped like a u. The wood, over time, will want to straighten out. Leave 1/4 inch between your sheeting boards when nailing them to your timbers. The thickness of those boards and the condition of the timbers you are nailing them to will determine the fastners you use. Nail the boards on the outer edges and once in the center on each perloin. Nail the bats only once on each perloin making sure the nail goes between the 1/4 inch space.

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buck

05-13-2003 19:23:30




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 Re: Board Batten Siding? Help! in reply to Bill Oakes NY, 05-13-2003 08:39:06  

Bill-- I have one old barn/grainery still standing that I use for storage/shop/horse stalls. Most of the old board and batten is still in place although I have replaced some as needed. There are nailers about 4' apart mortised into the 14'stud walls. Each board (about 12" is nailed once in the center and the battons ( about 4") are nailed thru the batten and board into the nailer. The nails are factory nails an today would be 16D or even 20D. Thus far the repairs I have made are not associated with constructon but that the pine boards have just warn thin. The battons are oak as are the slats on the grain bin area. 6 years ago I added a 32x24 pole barn to this old barn and wanted to maintain the same exterior look so using all 1x6 as board and batten I spaced the boards 3 1/2" apart and put the batten over the gap with 16D galv. nails thru the batten and board. I can already see the error in this method but now that it has weathered near the shade of the old barn it sorta looks like it has been there a long time. If I wee to recommend a method for your construction it would be to hang the boards wth one nail in the center with the board cup inside and allow this to weather/shrink/swell for a season and then place the battens with 2 nails thru the boards at each nailer but then i done admitted that I did mine wrong. Good luck with your project.

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buck

05-13-2003 19:02:24




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 Re: Board Batten Siding? Help! in reply to Bill Oakes NY, 05-13-2003 08:39:06  

Bill-- I have one old barn/grainery still standing that I use for storage/shop/horse stalls. Most of the old board and batten is still in place although I have replaced some as needed. There are nailers about 4' apart mortised into the 14'stud walls. Each board (about 12" is nailed once in the center and the battons ( about 4") are nailed thru the batten and board into the nailer. The nails are factory nails an today would be 16D or even 20D. Thus far the repairs I have made are not associated with constructon but that the pine boards have just warn thin. The battons are oak as are the slats on the grain bin area. 6 years ago I added a 32x24 pole barn to this old barn and wanted to maintain the same exterior look so using all 1x6 as board and batten I spaced the boards 3 1/2" apart and put the batten over the gap with 16D galv. nails thru the batten and board. I can already see the error in this method but now that it has weathered near the shade of the old barn it sorta looks like it has been there a long time. If I wee to recommend a method for your construction it would be to hang the boards wth one nail in the center with the board cup inside and allow this to weather/shrink/swell for a season and then place the battens with 2 nails thru the boards at each nailer but then i done admitted that I did mine wrong. Good luck with your project.

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ray

05-13-2003 18:48:57




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 Re: Board Batten Siding? Help! in reply to Bill Oakes NY, 05-13-2003 08:39:06  
Some of my wide boards split on my house because the builder nailed through the battens into each board. No room for expansion and boards split. I think you are getting some good advice here.



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Central Minnesota

05-13-2003 16:54:47




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 Re: Board Batten Siding? Help! in reply to Bill Oakes NY, 05-13-2003 08:39:06  
Did you ever notice how ALL old wood siding (car siding, lap siding, board and batten, shakes)has loose nails? I've used plated construction screws for B & B for years and they don't come loose. Just a thought. good luck.



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Robert in W. Mi

05-13-2003 12:33:27




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 Re: Board Batten Siding? Help! in reply to Bill Oakes NY, 05-13-2003 08:39:06  
Here's the way i've ALWAYS seen it done by the "old timers" around here.

You nail the wide board in the "center" only. Lay the board so the "bark side" (outer side) of the board is on the barn. This way "if" the board cups, the outer edges will come out. Then the batten goes over the edges and is nailed so the nails go through the batten and in between the wider boards under. This allows the wide boards under to expand and contract. The batten also holds the edges of the board down and flat. It also keeps the board from later drying out and splitting because it was nailed too tight.

I have a saw mill, and this is how i use the boards right off the mill. Ask your question at woodweb.com "sawing and drying forum", and i think you will get this same answer from the sawyers there too.

Robert

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Ron from IL

05-13-2003 10:00:01




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 Re: Board Batten Siding? Help! in reply to Bill Oakes NY, 05-13-2003 08:39:06  
Bill,

Over twenty five years ago, my brother gave me a book entitled, "The Architecture of Country Houses" by A.J. Downing. Mr Downing lived in the mid-1800's and was a renowned architect of his day. Board-and-batten siding was the one of the foremost styles of this period, and I think they pretty much knew what they were doing. In it, he shows a picture of the "correct" way to construct a board-and-batten wall. The boards ARE NOT nailed at all--the battens hold them in place. The batten is made in a 'T' shape, the leg of the 'T' the same thickness as the boards with the batten nailed perpendicular to the leg. The boards are slipped between the battens,and the battens are nailed to the studs. This allows the boards to be 'athletic' and move within the battens and not shear nails or cup. We did this style as a siding to a house my father and I build over twenty years ago, and, so far, has worked just as Mr. Downing said. It's worth a consideration.

Good luck!

Ron

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Polish Mike

05-13-2003 09:09:44




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 Re: Board Batten Siding? Help! in reply to Bill Oakes NY, 05-13-2003 08:39:06  
Bill...I just sent you an e-mail with a pic of my deer camp cabin. (I'll hafta figure how to post it later) All the siding went up green. I used ceramic coated sheet rock screws every 8 or 10 inches on both sides of each board. No problems with cupping or splitting. As a matter of fact, most of the framing lumber went up green also.



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Ben in KY

05-13-2003 08:51:31




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 Re: Board Batten Siding? Help! in reply to Bill Oakes NY, 05-13-2003 08:39:06  
I nail all the way accross the boards and battens. Seems to minimize cupping, etc. You may have a couple that will cup or bow, and have to replace them. The most important thing is to seal them well with good primer/paint or something.



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