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Powder Torches

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Jokers

05-10-2003 09:18:22




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Hi All, does anyone here have any experience with powder torches for hardfacing? What I would like to do is hardface the back side of mower and chipper blades in hopes of maintaining a sharp edge longer. The guy in the local weld supply shop isn`t too familiar with this application. I`d also heard that the torch set ups weren`t that expensive but in a quick internet search the prices all seem to be over $300 plus the powder. Does anyone have a favorite model or best value that they can suggest? Thanks, Russ

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Steve U.S. Alloys

05-11-2003 08:09:30




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 Re: Powder Torches in reply to Jokers, 05-10-2003 09:18:22  
You have hit on one of my favorite subjects. I have enjoyed every minute I have spent over the last 28 years introducing people to powder welding and also to metallising with exothermic powders and solid or cored wires.

After I give you a procedure for hardfacing those blades, allow me to provide some insights regarding powder torch choices.

OK, when it comes to hardfacing mower or chipper blades, placement of the deposit is key. Put a thin smooth deposit under the sharpened edge. This will slow the wear along the bottom and cause the top side to wear sharp. Put a smooth thin deposit along the outer edge. This will prevent rounding off of the blades edge. Lastly, if there is a suction wing on the back of the blade, coat the entire front surface of that area with a thin, smooth, coating. This of course will promote long life in that area and provide maximum lift.

There is a bit of a simple technique to prep and initial procedure. Don't spray anything you haven't previously ground, blasted, or sanded clean. By clean, I mean absolutely no foriegn material left. No low spot left unclean either.

Before you spray the clean surface, preheat to about 500�F to 800�F. At around 800� you will notice a small shadow following the flame. The metal will have turned blue and then back to its natural color. At this point and no later, apply a thin but uniform layer of unmelted powder. It should be thick enough that you can't see any of the base metal showing through. Next, pick a spot near an edge that will heat up quickly and hold the flame about 1/2" off the metal. Concentrate the heat until the powder begins to fuse. This fusing powder will appear to be orange and slick. Sort of shiny looking. When the power "slicks up", it's time to add more or move on. If you want to add more, you can develope a travel speed that is appropriate in time. You will also find that it is beneficial to pump the feed lever as opposed to holding it down.

A powder welded deposit can be machined, drilled, milled, tapped, and left as is. The welding powder creates a metallurgical bond with a 78,000 PSI tensile strength. The hardface powder is the same matrix with the addition of chrome and can also contain a percentage of WC.

Last August, I started a private venture. I have my own small manufacturing and supply business dealing primarily in welding and metallising for repair. When it comes to powder welding torches, $300.00 or thereabout is cheap. Those torches will range upwards of 1200.00 in price. The approach I'm taking is.....it's not the razor it's the blades. The torch has to be sold to market the powder.

There are basically three models of them:

1. The 300.00 torch will no longer be manufactured for sale through direct distributors. It will be only sold to distributors through the manufacturers sister company. Replacement parts aren't going to be made available for the center section because the center section is outsourced. This in my view will be a big mistake. When the center section needs a feed valve or mixer, you will have to buy the entire set-up to get it. I am currently in the process of arguing this point with them as I have that torch in my inventory and would like to continue to do so. I will not sell a torch I can't get parts for. Makes no sense.

2. The other model is one that sells in the 800.00 range. I have sold those for years as well and they are considerably more robust than the less expensive torch. The quality of the more expensive unit is uniform. With the less expensive one, if you get a good one you're OK, if not..... .you will need those parts that may not be made available. In any case, either one will eventually need a feed valve.

3. The most expensive torch of all is the one made in Europe. It will run as high as 1200.00 or more. It is a durable appliance with some nice features but IMPO is not worth the price. It is also designed for heavier mesh sized powders and will not shut off properly if the powder you are using conatins too many fines. Not a big deal for hardacing chisel plow points but a very big deal if you are rebuilding glass bottle molds.

There is not enough space in this forum to go much farther. Applications for this torch are only limited to the imagination. In all these years I am still finding new ones and each day is a new learning experience.
HTH,
Steve

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jokers

05-12-2003 14:29:25




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 Re: Re: Powder Torches in reply to Steve U.S. Alloys, 05-11-2003 08:09:30  
Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I guess that I was quite mistaken on the price which realistically makes it inpractical for my needs. You don`t save much by hardfacing $40 baldes with an $800 special purpose torch. Russ



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Steve U.S. Alloys

05-13-2003 07:18:24




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 Re: Re: Re: Powder Torches in reply to jokers, 05-12-2003 14:29:25  
I can appreciate that sir. This equipment may not be right for you if your applications are extremely limited. The value of this equipment is viewed in much the same way as the value of a welder is viewed.

A sprayed part will last no less than 4 times the life of an unsprayed part. On average then, a $40.00 replacement blade would have to cost no more than $10.00 to compete. Down time and replacement time is also a consideration. (Many parts have an increased life of up to ten times.)

Another consideration would be additional uses, such as, cast iron part repair, repair of cast steel parts, hydraulic cylinder ram repair, repair of broken pump casings, hammer mill hammers, baling wire guides, metal cams, cogs, hardfacing of: cornhead snap rolls, tire chain links, snow plow runners, cultivator sweeps, chisel plow points, injector knives, chopper blades, auger flighting, danish tines, chipper fan blades, planter spoons, mixer blades, etc.

If someone has a mill or lathe in their shop they can repair damaged keyways, bearing fits, seal areas, pump impellers, worn pump housings, fly knives, gear teeth, internal bearing fits, etc.

These are a few simple ag related repairs that come to mind. Industrial applications are boundless as well.
Steve

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