TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown Farmall & International Ferguson Ford & New Holland John Deere Massey Ferguson Massey Harris Minneapolis Moline Oliver & Cockshutt Kubota / Yanmar

TRACTOR MANUALS

Allis Chalmers	Case	Farmall IH	Ford 8N,9N,2N	Ford
Ferguson	John Deere	Massey Ferguson	Minn. Moline	Oliver

Discussion Forum

Which Welding Rods?

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register

Author

Scott

04-25-2003 09:49:22

Report to Moderator

I just got the old (read ancient) Century welder that has been on the farm for MANY years fixed up and ready to weld again. this thing hasn't been turned on in probably 20 years. Cleaned the shunt up, replaced any wires that were broken, new power cord, new leads, and new paint just to make it look good. We're getting 220 put back into the garage this week or so, and I've got a store credit that I was planning on using for some new welding rod.

Here's my question. I've not welded with a stick welder in MANY years. What would be a couple good rods to get for general use? I suspect I'll be fixing up mainly misc. items arround the farm. I may get into a couple special projects with some material arround 1/4" thick, and maby some as thin as 18 guage. What would you suggest for rod?

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

zhaid jamal

07-06-2003 07:59:46

Report to Moderator

Re: Which Welding Rods? in reply to Scott, 04-25-2003 09:49:22

pipe material
carbon steel x42
schedule 40
fluid crude oil
FBE coated

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

04-26-2003 10:22:09

Report to Moderator

Re: Which Welding Rods? in reply to Scott, 04-25-2003 09:49:22

I keep 3/32, 1/8, 5/32 and 3/16" 6011 on hand all the time along with 1/8 and 5/32 " 7018 (I run it on AC with a high-frequency unit in line). The 6011 is used for nearly everything from repair of old, rusty/painted work to new work with structural steels. The 7018 is used for all high carbon and alloyed steels such as truck frame repair, trailer hitches, etc. or anywhere the extra 10,00psi/yield strength is really needed. Since 6011 is a low-slag, deep-penetrating,quick-freeze rod "if you can see it you can stick it ". This makes it very useful for out-of-position repair work. You need to use a whipping pattern when welding with 6011. Since it's low slag you can go in and out of the puddle just enough to let it partially freeze for the next deposit to penetrate without blow-through. 6018 is best when used for new, flat work and makes a pretty bead with very little motion. 6011 can make a nice looking bead but your motion (progressive half-moon with a bit of in and out) must be smooth and uniform...you gotta have a steady hand. I'd suggest picking up a copy of Lincoln's "The Weldor's* Handbook" and then practice your movements and patterns until they are second-nature.
* A weld-OR is the guy and a weld-ER is the machine. :-)

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Rusty

04-26-2003 12:39:22

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Which Welding Rods? in reply to mj, 04-26-2003 10:22:09

Thanks mj for explaining about 6011 being a puddle rod. I sat down last night to explain to George and had myself confused. Now if you could explain 6013 being a drag rod I guess its straight but in and out motion? Anyway thanks, Rusty

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

04-27-2003 19:51:31

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Re: Which Welding Rods? in reply to Rusty, 04-26-2003 12:39:22

I use an in and out whip motion for fillet and lap joints with 6011 that 's much more 'active' than when using 13 for the same joints. You must do this with 11 if your amperage is turned up for deep penetration since it is a deep penetrating rod to begin with. With 6013 you can create a very uniform bead with little movement; hence the drag description. 13 can produce very wide, uniform beads using a modified halfmoon motion that is nearly sraight with slight hooking at the tips of the halfmoon and progression at each end. 13, when the amps are right, will procuce the lap and fillet joints with essentially zero movement with a resulting bead of acceptable width. 6011, when used in this manner, produces a very narrow, deep weld. The in and out motion that controls the penetration and bead size/placement with 6011 can produce slag inclusions with 6013 as it is not a low-slag, quick freezing rod. When used properly 6013 will produce those 'picture-book' welds that you like to leave un-ground and barely painted!
You can probably see very quicky the difference in the two rods by simply running a few UPHAND (weld progresses from the bottom upwards on a vertical joint) welds on 2 pieces of scrap 1/4" plate arranged in 'Tee' fashion. Run a bead up with both rods; your electrode should be about 20-30 degrees off vertical . The halfmoon whip with a pause in center (just above the 'shelf' to provide penetration at the root of the joint) and quick up-stoke left, back to shelf, quick up-stroke right, back to shelf, etc. will show how the quick-freeze and low-slag characteristics of the 6011 come into play in 'out of position' welding. The ability to get out of the puddle as it tries to droop and right back into it without slag inclusions makes it my choice for overhead, vertical and gap welding. I'm not downgrading 6013, it's just that most of my uses require 6011's properties and, due to experience, I can make 6011 welds that are 'purty' enough for who it's for....me. :-)

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Chester

04-25-2003 16:38:08

Report to Moderator

Re: Which Welding Rods? in reply to Scott, 04-25-2003 09:49:22

Try some US Forge #01621 ( 3/32" ) They are the easiest and cleanest rod to use. This probably sounds like Mickey Mouse advice, that's kind of what I thought when I saw them being dumped here as surplus. They beat any other rod (except some SS and nickle) that I have. On my Lincoln AC 225 they lay down like using a caulking gun.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Dr Cy Kosis

04-25-2003 14:41:52

Report to Moderator

Re: Which Welding Rods? in reply to Scott, 04-25-2003 09:49:22

One thing no one addressed is what kind of output your machine has.

It makes a big difference whether you are using AC or DC +/-.

I use DC straight polarity for most everything I do. I usually reach for 7018 for anything 3/16 or thicker I want to have any strength. 7018s don't work at all well with AC. There is a special version of the 7018 rod for AC users.

I keep large and small 6011s but don't do much but tack with them or things that need deep penetration. I use 6013s on all the lighter stuff. A couple of folks mentioned 7014s, I've never used them but have run up to a box and a half of 7024s a day in the past. 7024 (Jet Rod) could be run by a trained chimp and still look like a roll of dimes lated down. Easy to use.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

SHeiserman

04-25-2003 14:39:53

Report to Moderator

Re: Which Welding Rods? in reply to Scott, 04-25-2003 09:49:22

I'd say 3/32 6011. The smaller diameter is easier to run. I don't know what the duty cycle on your welder is, but the 3/32 won't work it so hard. If you're welding thick steel, just make more passes. 7018 leaves a very nice looking weld when cleaned up.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Rusty

04-25-2003 14:14:12

Report to Moderator

Re: Which Welding Rods? in reply to Scott, 04-25-2003 09:49:22

6011 is real good for rusty metal and fill in also this rod is a puddle rod. if you are welding clean or new metal 6013 is best but keep in mind that 6013 is a drag rod and what ever you do don`t grab both ends at the same time (Don King)LOL

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Fred OH

05-01-2003 05:49:33

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Which Welding Rods? in reply to Rusty, 04-25-2003 14:14:12

I'll add some to Rustys comments...as far as I'm concerned...theres no such thing as a drag rod for those danged old Century welders...they sure knew how to stick a rod...big grin. But the 7014's and 7024's do have powdered iron in the coating...that's what makes them so smooth to run...or drag.
I liked the Don King thing, I was a young man learning welding ...running an old A O Smith AC machine...the one that looks like a bee hive on top...and was reaching back under the weld bench to change taps and got nailed by that 'ol nasty S@B and in getting away from it run my face into the rod, burnt my face and got me again...through the face! Still got the scar to prove it. That was my first experience with what a welder can do if you are not in the know of how to avoid their meanness. Hint: Always wear DRY gloves and when welding with grass under feet with big rod (1/4")...they will really light up your life...make you want to go lay down for a while to get your head back together.
6011 sure is good for farm type work...but they are hard on your nose. You got any interesting experiences along this line? L8R....Fred OH

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

George

04-25-2003 15:07:31

Report to Moderator

Re: Re: Which Welding Rods? in reply to Rusty, 04-25-2003 14:14:12

Puddle rod and drag rod -- What do you mean by these terms?

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

moonlite

04-25-2003 13:35:39

Report to Moderator

Re: Which Welding Rods? in reply to Scott, 04-25-2003 09:49:22

All other posts are good. I have welded for years and cannot now see well enough to really weld good but use 6011 for most everything. I feel that being proficent with one rod is enough and that the proficency of the welder is more important than the individual characteristic of the rod.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

KSBob

04-25-2003 11:16:58

Report to Moderator

Re: Which Welding Rods? in reply to Scott, 04-25-2003 09:49:22

While I'm far from calling myself a real welder, I have found 6011 to be the most forgiving all around rod. While I get better welds if I clean things up and do it properly, the 6011 will let me repair something on the fly with minimal clean-up. I keep both 1/8 and 3/32 6011 rods around at all times. It's kind of my duct tape and baleing wire rod. If I do things properly, 6013 and 7014 are very nice and I keep some of each in 1/8 around also. From my very limited experience with welding, keeping the rod in dry storage is a very important part of the overall process.

Bob

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Bguy

04-25-2003 10:31:44

Report to Moderator

Re: Which Welding Rods? in reply to Scott, 04-25-2003 09:49:22

I'm not trained in the welding "arts" but I have used a lot of 6011 around the farm over the years just making repairs and small projects. I've always had pretty good results with it. It makes a nice strong weld (even if I can't make them pretty) and is tolerant of the used, rusty material I'm working with most of the time. I have also had good luck with 6013 on the newer, cleaner steel.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Greg

04-25-2003 10:28:03

Report to Moderator

Re: Which Welding Rods? in reply to Scott, 04-25-2003 09:49:22

6013, 1/8 7014, 1/8", with either one of these rods you can do 95% of any welding you need, store it in a drawer with oil dry or cat litter and it will keep for years.. Greg

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

[Options] [Printer Friendly] [Posting Help] [Return to Forum] [Log in to Reply]

TRACTOR PARTS	TRACTOR MANUALS

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home | Forums

Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy