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Wiring in Barn

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Howard H.

03-23-2003 18:21:25

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Hi Ya'll,

I'm wiring our big grain barn to make one end into a shop. I like good lighting so I plan on having 8-10 500 watt halogen lights, plus outlets for power drills, grinders, etc...

Plus, also a Lincoln crackerbox 225 amp welder. The service to the outside of the building supports the old grain drying motors, so I have plenty of copper to the outside of the building.

I was just wondering what gauge Romex I should use to make my runs for the inside wiring.

Will 12 gauge be heavy enough for the lighting and outlet runs?

What should I use for the welder circuit?

Thanks for any ideas,
Howard H.

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RickB.

03-30-2003 02:55:09

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Re: Wiring in Barn in reply to Howard H., 03-23-2003 18:21:25

Good comments here, except for one glaring omission. I just built a shop last summer. Used all MC wire instead of Romex. Similar to the old BX cable, except it has an aluminum sheath instead of steel, and a copper ground conductor. Varmints won't chew it, and it will be less prone to damage where exposed. Much better choice than Romex or UF.

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DaveK(IN)

03-26-2003 18:56:10

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Re: Wiring in Barn in reply to Howard H., 03-23-2003 18:21:25

I would suggest you consider using UF cable rather than Romex (Type NM-B) since it will often "wick"
water into its paper filler in a barn or basement
installation. Better would be conduit or MC cable
but that is not a doityourself project.

Consider using Ground fault protected outlets for your tools since you are in a barn.

Most importantly, since you indicated your were bringing power in from elsewhere in the barn, make sure you understand grounding and bonding or get some help from someone who does since this can kill you. A shop is a particularly dangerous place for electrical hazard.

Good luck with your project.

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Ludwig

03-27-2003 06:52:06

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Re: Re: Wiring in Barn in reply to DaveK(IN), 03-26-2003 18:56:10

Most GF protected outlets waste a bunch of power, make sure you ask about this before you buy. Figure each outlet you install can be throwing away up to 2watts. That can add up in a couple years. Theres some that use less than a tenth that. A bit more pricey up front, but worth it in the long run.

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Gary in IL

03-28-2003 12:54:08

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Re: Re: Re: Wiring in Barn in reply to Ludwig, 03-27-2003 06:52:06

Please quantify 'a bunch'

Thanks

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Dan

03-28-2003 07:24:43

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Re: Re: Re: Wiring in Barn in reply to Ludwig, 03-27-2003 06:52:06

What about GF protected breakers?

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Ludwig

03-28-2003 09:23:38

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Wiring in Barn in reply to Dan, 03-28-2003 07:24:43

They'll still eat some power, but as you'll have far fewer of them its less of a problem.
In the energy conservation community they're considered way better than the outlets.
Still a good idea to ask about how much power they take. I can't remember where I read about this, but I'll keep an eye out.

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DaveK(IN)

03-28-2003 14:58:45

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Wiring in Barn in reply to Ludwig, 03-28-2003 09:23:38

Ludwig- I would be very interested in your source on this as I have never heard of such a caution in almost 30 years as a Master Electrician. All a GFI does is compare the current(s) between the phase (hot) and neutral return. If it exceeds the threshold limit (5ma. on household GFI's I think) then it trips within one cycle of current. There is a small electronic circuit but I would not think it drew any appreciable current. I hope you can find your source.

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BIG WOOD

03-25-2003 17:23:26

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Re: Wiring in Barn in reply to Howard H., 03-23-2003 18:21:25

Call a contractor!! Some advice is ok, some is hogwash. Yes, I am a licensed contractor.

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evielboweviel

03-25-2003 08:53:31

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Re: Wiring in Barn in reply to Howard H., 03-23-2003 18:21:25

12 gauge romex load to no more than 16 amps.
I would use a combination of 8' high output florescents, high or low pressure sodium and just enough halogen or incadesent to give color balance. Halogen throws shadows bad. Also mount some lights on walls. 6 gauge copper for welder, 10 gauge for 220volt 30 amp, 12 gauge for 20 amp circuits, keeping in mind you are allowed by national electric code to load to 80% only

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Ray,IN

03-24-2003 18:15:30

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Re: Wiring in Barn in reply to Howard H., 03-23-2003 18:21:25

Another link:

Voltage drop calculator

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Robert in W. Mi

03-23-2003 19:29:36

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Re: Wiring in Barn in reply to Howard H., 03-23-2003 18:21:25

Personally, i don't like #14 wire for anything, as i'd rather keep the wire sized a bit bigger so i have good voltage on longer runs. I NEVER pull more than 75% rated load through any wire or breaker that will be used continuously. (lights ect..) The link will take you to a wire size chart, and here's the addy for a voltage drop calculator. http://www.menninga.com/voltcalc.htm You can cut and paste it to see it. Hope this helps, Robert

Wire Size Chart

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03-24-2003 16:58:16

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Re: Re: Wiring in Barn in reply to Robert in W. Mi, 03-23-2003 19:29:36

Thanks for the useful links! They will save a lot of 'hitting the books' for info.

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John Humphrey Morocco IN.

03-23-2003 19:07:08

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Re: Wiring in Barn in reply to Howard H., 03-23-2003 18:21:25

Put no more than 3 lights per switched run, 500X3=1500 watts divided by 120 volts= 12.5 amps. Supply each switch with a 15 amp breaker wired with #14 wire. Wall outlets should be run in #12 wire and supplied with a 20 amp breaker. (each breaker can supply 5 to 6 outlets) The welder should have #6 wire supplied by a two pole 60 amp Breaker.

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